Which salt system works best?

[Xexys]

I have a Jandy AquaPure 1400 and the salt cell is in need of replacement. While looking for a replacement I've read that these Jandy's really are not that reliable and I know that the salt cell has its problems in that it doesn't really last more than 3 years or so. I'm getting error codes 172, followed by 183,184 which refer to the flow salinity sensor which I've cleaned but not checked the circuit board yet. Rather than replacing it with another Jandy, I'm thinking of spending another $300-$400 and just replacing the whole system with either the Pentair IC40 or the Hayward Aqua Rite 40.

Chime in with your thoughts on which system you have or which in your opinion is better. I've found both the Pentair and the Hayward at about the same price so give me what you think I should do.

I have a 23,000 gallon pool and my swim season most years is 5 months here in the South West. I should also tell you my filter system is a Pentair Cartridge system and the salt water cell was installed in Apr 2010 and the salt cell (Jandy) has really not been producing chlorine for almost a year now. I've been supplementing the pool with chlorine tablets since it stopped producing chlorine. Ready to buy and would like some feedback from owners of these systems.

Thanks for your replies.

 

[jblizzle]

The Hayward cells are cheaper to replace. Also the Pentair is limited to increments of 20% if you do not have their automation system.

But, there is no reason to think that they will work better or last longer than the Jandy which is a good brand as well.

Whatever you go with, make sure the cell is sized for at least 40k gallons.

Also, are you sure the Jandy was not generating chlorine? Or could you have had low level algae consuming it? Or was you CYA to low resulting in high losses to the sun? Although if you have been using a lot of tablets, then your CYA is not likely too low.

 

[duraleigh]

has really not been producing chlorine for almost a year now. I've been supplementing the pool with chlorine tablets

What is your CYA level?

 

[Xexys]

What is your CYA level?

CYA level is 50; Phosphates were off the chart at 2000; FC is 1; salt is 3000; TA is 80; PH is 7.6; TAC (total available chlorine) is 1 although I don't see that listed in the "Pool School"

Leslie's recommended me using two liters of the commercial Phos-Free and that brought my pool back from being murky. Salt cell has been cleaned and the flow/salinity sensor I just cleaned yesterday but I'm still getting errors 172, 183, 184 which suggests I have a problem with the sensor or the board. I haven't tested the water since the Phos free injection to the skimmer. I suppose the phosphates were just eating the chlorine?

Remember, this is all new to me and I'm still learning so go easy on me please. What is the easiest way to get my CYA back up to snuff?

 

[jblizzle]

Phosphates are just a buzz word that the pool stores have started using to line their pockets ... it is completely meaningless, IF, you maintain adequate FC ... which you are not. Phosphate are like food for algae, but with adequate chlorine, algae can not live, so how cares how much food there is?

You CYA is fine for now since you do not have a functioning SWG.

Since you pool is not clear, you need to go through the SLAM Process. According to the FC/CYA Chart, with a CYA of 50 (if you believe it, since this is the test that the stores are the WORST at), then you need to maintain a FC level of 20ppm through the entire process. To this this correctly, you will need one of the Recommended Test Kits ... the TF-100 with the XL option is what you want since you have to SLAM.

Once you finish the SLAM, then you will need to maintain your FC above 4ppm at ALL times with liquid chlorine while you are figuring out what needs to be done with your SWG.

 

[Xexys]

Phosphates are just a buzz word that the pool stores have started using to line their pockets ... it is completely meaningless, IF, you maintain adequate FC ... which you are not. Phosphate are like food for algae, but with adequate chlorine, algae can not live, so how cares how much food there is?

You CYA is fine for now since you do not have a functioning SWG.

Since you pool is not clear, you need to go through the SLAM Process. According to the FC/CYA Chart, with a CYA of 50 (if you believe it, since this is the test that the stores are the WORST at), then you need to maintain a FC level of 20ppm through the entire process. To this this correctly, you will need one of the Recommended Test Kits ... the TF-100 with the XL option is what you want since you have to SLAM.

Once you finish the SLAM, then you will need to maintain your FC above 4ppm at ALL times with liquid chlorine while you are figuring out what needs to be done with your SWG.

Actually, the pool is clear at the moment. Has been since I ran the Phos free in the pool for 24 hours. My next step is to get the test kit and figure out what to do with my SWG. After that, I will spend a lot of time on this site to learn everything I can about maintaining my pool.

 

[jblizzle]

Well, I would not consider it "clear" until you pass the 3 criteria listed in the SLAM process.

If you had algae, adding phosfree did not kill it.

 

[kpromero]

I was leery at first to buy but ended up getting a Cicupool RJ45 and so far pleased with it. 7 year prorated on everything and works well. Had it 3 years now and no issues what so ever

 

[Xexys]

Update: I have a Heliocol representative coming out to give me an estimate on installing a new SWG system. A quick quote over the phone and he told me that they are waiving the install money if you get it installed in the month of May, a $200.00 charge. Of course, as many of you probably already know, they will set up the pool with all chemicals and salt when they do the install. So the wife and I believe this will be a great opportunity for us to drain the pool and change the water as it is a little more than four years since this was done. The install team will be paying for the salt and the chemicals so we think this is a no brainer on the pool draining if we indeed do decide to pull the trigger.

Also, they are supposedly the leaders in the industry on solar pool heating and we are seriously thinking about that too. It would extend our swimming season here from 5 months to ten months. The representative was telling me he has a 24k gallon pool (pretty much the same as mine) that has solar heating and his pool is 90 degrees at the moment. That's what I'm talking about!

 

[jblizzle]

I think 10 months is VERY optimistic sales-speak ... maybe 8 months, maybe a little more is you use a solar cover as well. When it is cold outside (<70 degrees), no one wants to be out swimming anyway.

What SWG do they install? Are you not willing to install it yourself?

 

[Xexys]

I think 10 months is VERY optimistic sales-speak ... maybe 8 months, maybe a little more is you use a solar cover as well. When it is cold outside (<70 degrees), no one wants to be out swimming anyway.

What SWG do they install? Are you not willing to install it yourself?

It's the Sunsplash PSC-5. If they have waived the installation fee and are willing to add all the chemicals and salt why should I install it myself? But, to answer your question, I am willing to install it myself but I think it would behoove me to let them do it since the fee is waived.

He may be a little optimistic but he did point out that his pool is 20 degrees warmer than mine at the moment. People are different, I think swimming at any time of the year would be appealing, especially if it were March. He told me that he really doesn't swim from December to February but has in the past swam 10 months out of the year. I know and realize that he's trying to sell me a product and always may stretch the truth. Even if I only get 8 months out of the year it would be fine with me. I have a wife that won't go into the pool unless it's 80 or more. She needs more exercise since she had her hip replaced and I think that this would be a great way to get her out in the pool with me to do just that, exercise.

It has a 5 year warranty. Many of his customers have gotten 7 years or more out of their salt cells. Mine is toast now after 4 years and we've been throwing in chlorine tabs for almost 9 months now. I would be crazy not to buy this system if it works as he says. I would end up replacing my cell for $500 every 3 years or so. I talked to my wife's friend who is a pool guy by trade and does it for a living and told me that this swg is the best system on the market. He also pointed out that the Hayward system should be cleaned every 2-3 weeks. The sunsplash cell is clear plastic, giving me a visual inspection, and he recommends his clients to clean it every 3 months but it can be stretched to 6 months. The sunsplash also has a display of FC, PH and works best at 4000 to 5000 ppm, which to me makes the water much more enjoyable.

I won't be using a solar cover. To me, I think they are cumbersome and to store it when not in use would pretty much take up most of the space on the shallow end deck.