So, what to do next?

[josworth]

Just uncovered the pool and got the filter up and running. I was really surprised to see it mostly clear and almost no debris.

Added enough water to bring the level up then got the filter all hooked up and running. After running it for about an hour I ran my first full tests with my new TF-100 test kit.
*BTW, if the maker of the kit reads this you need to check the labeling of the TA agents. My kit had two bottles with green R-0007 labels. Thank goodness I took the time to check the contents and realized that R-0008 was missing and is dark. So my R-0008 was in the kit, just with the wrong label. May want to double check inventory????

Back to topic...

First test results:

Chlorine was at 0
Calcium is at 150
PH was 6.8
TA was 80
CYA was 50

My first question is about the CYA test. I assume that the cloudiness of the test water is supposed to obscure the black dot. At the 50 mark I could still barely make out a faint shadow but soon after it was totally washed out. Sort of mid-way between 50 and 40.. depending on interpretation I may be slightly over reporting CYA.

I used pool math and added what chemicals I have. I added 29 oz by volume of Baking Soda and 38oz of liquid chlorine @12.5%.

After about an hour of circulation I took another test.

FC = 2
CC = 3
TC = 5

Calcium Hardness (CH) still at 150

PH still looks like 6.8

TA is now reading 100

CYA is still showing my best estimate of 50.

I still need to buy some Borax and plan on adding the recommended 74oz by weight to bring up the PH.

I was surprised that after dosing with the 12.5% Chlorine that my CC was already at 3 and my FC was only 2. Pool Math is telling me to dump in another 23oz of the 12.5% Bleach I have.

I'm happy it looks to be a real simple opening.

I would say my water is maybe just a tad cloudy. Not much, I can clearly make out the pattern of the liner looking straight down. It just looks slightly dull looking out over the pool.

Also, I get bubbles on the surface that linger when you splash the water. Almost like the bubbles you get from soapy water. This was more pronounced last year after adding algaecide.

What next? Is there anything worrying about my readings?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Not sure about your math - I'm getting almost a full jug of 12.5% not 23 oz. Your shock level is 20....

- - - Updated - - -

The bubbles are normal part of oxidation and will disappear as the process ensues. I think you're interpreting the CYA correctly and even if you are only at 40 or so, a shock level of 20 for now is fine, or you can target 16 if you prefer - but with such high CC I'd go with 20. Test again in about an hour, see where you're at. Keep SLAMming... you're doing just fine.

 

[Isaac-1]

You are doing good, the pH test only reads down to 6.8 so yours could be much lower, just keep adjusting it up like you have been doing and retest and keep adding chlorine, just be aware the pH test can be skewed if your FC gets over about 10 ppm


Ike

 

[duraleigh]

josworth,

I am sorry you got a mislabeled bottle. Please email your name to TFTestkits @gmail.com and we'll get the correct bottle out to you Monday AM.

Always notify TFTestkits if you have any problem with what we send you....we'll correct it immediately.

 

[josworth]

Not sure about your math - I'm getting almost a full jug of 12.5% not 23 oz. Your shock level is 20....

- - - Updated - - -

The bubbles are normal part of oxidation and will disappear as the process ensues. I think you're interpreting the CYA correctly and even if you are only at 40 or so, a shock level of 20 for now is fine, or you can target 16 if you prefer - but with such high CC I'd go with 20. Test again in about an hour, see where you're at. Keep SLAMming... you're doing just fine.

I was doing the math for normal levels, not shock. I'm getting the hint that with my CC higher than my FC right from the start that I need to SLAM, no? In that case, I understand the whole bottle thing.

- - - Updated - - -

josworth,

I am sorry you got a mislabeled bottle. Please email your name to TFTestkits @gmail.com and we'll get the correct bottle out to you Monday AM.

Always notify TFTestkits if you have any problem with what we send you....we'll correct it immediately.

Dave, I got your PM and responded... I'll start here with that comment was not a complaint but more of an FYI.... I love the kit I got and feel like I'm back to playing with my chemistry set I had as a kid. I didn't notice the label until I started testing this morning. I figured it out and just proceeded.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes with a CC that high you need to SLAM and hold it there until the CC drops to .5 or less.

 

[josworth]

I think I OD'd my pool....

I think I OD'd the pool on Chlorine... Oooops..

So, I did a test around 2 o'clock after I had added the remainder of the first gallon of 12.5% bleach. I was getting only a reading of about 3 FC and 1.5 CC... Figured I wasn't done slamming so I added a full 128oz bottle of 12.5%

At 3 I tested again...

Now I get a FC of 20.5 but a CC of .5...

How long do I wait to test again.... this evening??

Basically the test turned the brightest shade of red I have seen yet and took 41 drops to get it clear. The CC test it turned just a hint of pink almost clear. It did turn clearer after one drop.. hence my figure of .5 CC.

 

[Richard320]

Well... your pH test is useless with FC that high. Just thought I'd remind you of that.

Otherwise, just stay the course. You checked FC and it's above shock level, so you don't need to add any more. When it dips below, add some more bleach, but maybe undershoot a little. Your pool isn't as big as you think or the bleach is stronger than you think. It's quite possible if the bleach is really fresh.

The instructions say test "not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day," right? So that's what you do. If you're not losing much, space it out. If it's all gone in four hours, the next check better be in two hours.

 

[josworth]

Well... your pH test is useless with FC that high. Just thought I'd remind you of that.

Yes, I am aware of that. Took the PH test before heavy dosing. I figured I'd get the Borax and add what Pool Math suggested. Wait until my chlorine values are where I want them and then do the "full battery of tests" again. I know the beginning PH was pretty low, so the Borax should bring it up no matter the chlorine, right? Does high chlorine only affect the test?

One more chemical question. In my initial tests I am showing very low calcium. Given my pool is a vinyl above ground, do I have to worry about that or add anything?

The two things I was very afraid of before opening was finding a green swamp or that my CYA values were going to be through the roof from adding a bunch of pool store pucks and powders that according to how I read stuff, raises your CYA. Last year being new to a permanent pool I was in the pool store a ton sweating all the chemicals. Bet I spent over $300 on my little 'ol 18 foot pool.

Honestly love this... my opening has been cake.. it's going to be more work cleaning and drying the cover than getting the pool itself into swim shape...

I have more simple questions though regarding sustaining. Things about run times and where to aim my return. Should I ask in this thread or start another?

 

[Richard320]

Yes, I am aware of that. Took the PH test before heavy dosing. I figured I'd get the Borax and add what Pool Math suggested. Wait until my chlorine values are where I want them and then do the "full battery of tests" again. I know the beginning PH was pretty low, so the Borax should bring it up no matter the chlorine, right? Does high chlorine only affect the test?

Once you pass the 3 criteria to end the SLAM, then worry about the rest. Super high FC can cause the TA test to go blue>yellow instead of green>pink, but the results are valid. I don't think the CH or CYA tests are affected.

One more chemical question. In my initial tests I am showing very low calcium. Given my pool is a vinyl above ground, do I have to worry about that or add anything?

Nope. But if you get a lot of foaminess, raising CH will minimize it.

The two things I was very afraid of before opening was finding a green swamp or that my CYA values were going to be through the roof from adding a bunch of pool store pucks and powders that according to how I read stuff, raises your CYA. Last year being new to a permanent pool I was in the pool store a ton sweating all the chemicals. Bet I spent over $300 on my little 'ol 18 foot pool.

$300! I'm in the wrong business.

Honestly love this... my opening has been cake.. it's going to be more work cleaning and drying the cover than getting the pool itself into swim shape...

I have more simple questions though regarding sustaining. Things about run times and where to aim my return. Should I ask in this thread or start another?

Run time is covered in Pool School.

Aiming returns is more art than science. If you need to aerate, point them up. If you don't have a floor drain, point one down to get circulation. Otherwise, it's just play around until debris on the surface gets pushed towards the skimmer. If you don't have a bunch of leaves to watch, consider yourself lucky and toss a few ping pong balls into the pool and see where they go. You'll just need to experiment.

 

[duraleigh]

Should I ask in this thread or start another?

Keep everything in the same thread. Makes it easy for everyone to follow your "story".

 

[josworth]

9:45PM Tested chlorine

FC = 16

CC = 0

TC = 16

Woo Hoo.... So sitting out with the filter running it dropped from shock level of 20 to 16.... but CC went to 0.

Adding enough 12.5% bleach to bring it back up to 20... and see if it holds over night...

I think I'm doing this right......

 

[Richard320]

9:45PM Tested chlorine

FC = 16

CC = 0

TC = 16

Woo Hoo.... So sitting out with the filter running it dropped from shock level of 20 to 16.... but CC went to 0.

Adding enough 12.5% bleach to bring it back up to 20... and see if it holds over night...

I think I'm doing this right......

Sounds like it.

You will need to read the actual FC and not just use the calculated value when you're ready to do the overnight loss test.

 

[josworth]

I ran the full battery of tests....

Yea, I know the PH and TA tests will be wacky with such high levels of chlorine... but wanted to see anyway and practice with my test kit. Honestly I can see me ordering more testing agents soon. This little "chemistry set" is a hoot... LOL

So, I am a little bummed this morning with the results. I had high hopes that I could drop down the pump run time sooner, but looks like the energy pig has to keep running. There must be something in the water creating combined chlorine. Darn. So time to boost it back up.

I guess I should stress that my water was clear but maybe just slightly dull. The only debris in the pool was a tiny bit of stuff that fell off the cover taking it off. I could of counted the little litter that I had to vacuum out from the bottom, that's how little I had.

The water now is sparkling clear, no more dullness. Oh, my pool salesman is going to be ****** when I stop in and just buy toys like a new floatie for my 4.5 year old. After all the crazy different chemicals I bought last year being overly anal I am surprised my pool water is in such good shape this year.

Here are my test numbers. Again, I know that the PH and TA are not reliable at this stage. Funny enough though the TA test stayed the normal colors of green/pink.

FC = 16
CC = 1
Total C = 17
TA = 120
PH = 7.5
CH = 100
CYA = 40

I added another 32oz of my 12.5%. Based on pool math that will take me back up to the 20ppm shock level

Here is what I've added so far since I pulled the cover off yesterday.

2 gallons and 64oz of 12.5% liquid chlorine (bleach)
1 76oz box of Borax
29oz by volume of baking soda

The baking soda and Borax are all based off my initial testing before SLAMing.

Now I am looking for reassurance. Am I doing this right. I feel so naive. I am so used to being the advice giver on quite a few automotive forums, not the "know little newb".

BTW... I am actually really good at DIYing car maintenance and repair... One of my latest claims to fame is converting my wife's 2006 Mercedes R350 from the unreliable self leveling rear air springs to conventional coil springs. Using all Mercedes OEM parts and doing it for less than $600. It's that DIY attitude that drove me here. So, maybe I can give back. Need advice or help, shoot me a PM.

 

[josworth]

Rats! That is what I get for not reading enough.... just became a Lifetime Member and noticed that I could have gotten $10.00 off my test kit...

LOL, even after reading that it was a no-brainer to click the donation button. This site has already saved me way over that....

 

[Richard320]

Conventional wisdom says to open a can of POP.

Pool Owner Patience.

You only uncovered the thing yesterday! You're doing fine!

 

[duraleigh]

josworth,

Check your PM's

 

[josworth]

So, just to update, my CC went to 0 on Sunday the 11th, that night the FC held and still had 0 CC in the morning.

Monday morning I dropped the pump down to a cycle I am going to try. 2 Hours in the early AM, 2 Hours from 11AM to 1PM, then 2 hours from 5PM to 7PM. Checked free chlorine in the evening and it had started to come down, think it was at 17.5 but still no CC.

Then we got a horrid series of thunder storms last night complete with back to back tornado warnings. Now my pool has a bunch of litter in it and is overfilled.

I will be interested in what my tests show this evening.

I won't bother with the whole battery of tests until my FC is back down to 6.

 

[josworth]

YAY... This site is really Trouble Free AND EASY Pool!!!

Thanks to the great guides, calculators, and the tremendous coaches, I did it. As of today my pool math calculations result in a Balanced Pool. I ran all the tests and I am in great shape...

Now to maintain.