I have a 27ft circle above ground pool and every year since I bought this place in 2010 I have had to rebuild this Hayward pump. I have never had a pool, but this can't be the way to go every year can it? Once again I plugged it up after getting the pool to the right depth and HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. No turning or pumping. Just humming. I turned it off and came inside to figure out a new plan. I had the sand changed out in 2010. If it all needs redone would salt water be better to switch to? I am as green as your water in February when it comes to these things.
Every year!
- Thread starter ginsenghunter
- Start date
Welcome to TFP. Salt water has nothing to do with your pump/filter and everything to do with water chemistry that is balanced. Your pump is only there to filter and move the water to mix the chemicals. There is no reason to ever change the sand in a sand filter unless it's a BAQ Conversion. I don't have green water in Feb 
I would highly suggest Pool School. There are several links in Pool School that you would benefit from. We're here to help you but you have some home work. And I'd also suggest the best test kit you can get: TF100 XL. It is a MUST!!!
I would highly suggest Pool School. There are several links in Pool School that you would benefit from. We're here to help you but you have some home work. And I'd also suggest the best test kit you can get: TF100 XL. It is a MUST!!!Well I googled the symptoms. A youtube video instructed me on the breakdown of the pump and that the impeller may be clogged with debris when you hear a humming sound. I took it apart and the impeller looked fine. The shaft itself is locked tight. I got some pliers and couldn't make it spin.
Asking about salt water was if the scenario forced me to make a major purchase. If I was going to have to spend a lot of money I was wondering if it would be easier to just go ahead and switch. I hear it is easier and cheaper. I have a 2HP pump on this system and I see they are over $400.
Asking about salt water was if the scenario forced me to make a major purchase. If I was going to have to spend a lot of money I was wondering if it would be easier to just go ahead and switch. I hear it is easier and cheaper. I have a 2HP pump on this system and I see they are over $400.
You'll still have to test your water regularly with a SWG and add MA to keep the pH rise in check. The only thing that's easier about the SWG is the fact that you're not lugging bleach/liquid chlorine to the pool daily.
Again, the SWG is independent of the pump and filter ... sounds like you need a new motor, but that does not mean you will save any money by adding a SWG now vs later.
Do you leave your motor sitting outside turned off all winter? Sounds like you bearings are shot. You could just replace the motor, and if you are doing so, I would suggest getting a smaller 2-speed motor and smaller impeller. This will be cheaper than a whole new pump and cheaper to run in the future.
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The math has been done many times and a SWG, over the long run, is generally the same $ as adding bleach, but the SWG it is mostly paid upfront.
Do you leave your motor sitting outside turned off all winter? Sounds like you bearings are shot. You could just replace the motor, and if you are doing so, I would suggest getting a smaller 2-speed motor and smaller impeller. This will be cheaper than a whole new pump and cheaper to run in the future.
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The math has been done many times and a SWG, over the long run, is generally the same $ as adding bleach, but the SWG it is mostly paid upfront.
I thought everyone left their pumps outside turned off all winter. Am I supposed to disconnect it and put it in the garage?
I run the pump 24/7 until I close the pool and then it sits until the next grand opening.
I run the pump 24/7 until I close the pool and then it sits until the next grand opening.
I take my pump and filter in the basement for the winter.
There's really no need to be running the pump 24/7. There's an article in pool school on how to determine pump run time. I only run mine 6 hrs a day but I manually dose with bleach. You could get by with less than 24/7. ?
There's really no need to be running the pump 24/7. There's an article in pool school on how to determine pump run time. I only run mine 6 hrs a day but I manually dose with bleach. You could get by with less than 24/7. ?
I would if I did not keep my pool open all year.
You can save a lot of money by getting a timer and running the pump a LOT less.
OR
Get a 2-speed and run on low 24/7 ... that will save you 75% of the power you are currently using, but you could save even more by only running 4-6 hours on low.
I am fairly certain it is 27ft in diameter. 30 tops. I posted pics. Maybe they will be approved soon.
If you close your pool you should take your equipment in. Everyone I know does it. I also only run my pump about 4-6 hours a day and sometimes over night. I ran it for 3 hours today.
So I have a 110 outlet there on a post. You're saying I can get a variable speed motor for that size pool and it doesn't have to be a 2.0?
Finding 115v 2 speed motors is a little more difficult, but possible. And yes you can go smaller with a smaller impeller.
You should not get a Variable Speed pump unless your electric is over $0.20/KWH or your electric company offers a hefty rebate that makes it nearly the same price as a 2 speed pump. Definitely go with a 2 speed pump over a single speed, I wish I had.
I have a 27' round pool, 52" high with 48" water depth. My pump works just fine and it is an uprated 1.0 HP pump which is the same as a 3/4 hp full rated pump. I'm not saying you should downsize that far without knowing more but I have no issues keeping the pool crystal clear all season and I only run it about 6-8 hours a day on a timer. I use 1.5" pvc, the pump in my sig, a 21" 2.2 square foot sand filter, one skimmer and one return, no automatic vacuum as of yet, and I also kept my tablet feeder plumbed in for when I'm away on vacation.
Tell us more about your filter, your current pump, if you plan to use any automatic vacuums that run off intake or return, and any other planned additions such as a heater.
Regardless of which future pump you get, I would recommend getting rid of the plastic flex lines and going with 1.5" or 2" PVC. I would definitely upgrade the skimmer-to-pump line to PVC so it doesn't collapse and cause cavitation.
I would make these changes to the intake:
1) Upgrade to solid PVC from skimmer to pump.
2) Add a single union ball valve to the vertical PVC line under the skimmer, the union should towards skimmer and the valve part towards pump (unless there is a flow direction indicating otherwise).
3) Install a union close to the pump output.
With those changes you can quickly disconnect the two unions, remove your motor's mounting bolts, and take the pump indoors.
Are both of the flex lines on the return going to the pool all of the time or is one only used for a pressure side vacuum some of the time? I would at least plumb in the return jet with solid PVC.
I have a 27' round pool, 52" high with 48" water depth. My pump works just fine and it is an uprated 1.0 HP pump which is the same as a 3/4 hp full rated pump. I'm not saying you should downsize that far without knowing more but I have no issues keeping the pool crystal clear all season and I only run it about 6-8 hours a day on a timer. I use 1.5" pvc, the pump in my sig, a 21" 2.2 square foot sand filter, one skimmer and one return, no automatic vacuum as of yet, and I also kept my tablet feeder plumbed in for when I'm away on vacation.
Tell us more about your filter, your current pump, if you plan to use any automatic vacuums that run off intake or return, and any other planned additions such as a heater.
Regardless of which future pump you get, I would recommend getting rid of the plastic flex lines and going with 1.5" or 2" PVC. I would definitely upgrade the skimmer-to-pump line to PVC so it doesn't collapse and cause cavitation.
I would make these changes to the intake:
1) Upgrade to solid PVC from skimmer to pump.
2) Add a single union ball valve to the vertical PVC line under the skimmer, the union should towards skimmer and the valve part towards pump (unless there is a flow direction indicating otherwise).
3) Install a union close to the pump output.
With those changes you can quickly disconnect the two unions, remove your motor's mounting bolts, and take the pump indoors.
Are both of the flex lines on the return going to the pool all of the time or is one only used for a pressure side vacuum some of the time? I would at least plumb in the return jet with solid PVC.
I went ahead and bought a 1hp Hayward economy. $190 after tax, shipping, etc. Got here in 36hrs. I will put it on this evening and hope for the best. Thanks!
Is that just a motor or a full pump? If just a motor did you get a smaller impeller and new shaft seal?
Full pump.
Let me ask you this... I had my deck redone today and the guy saw my pool water spinning. That pump is doing great and almost silent compared to the old one. My return comes out the side of a light(which doesn't work). It circulates the water counter-clockwise. He said that wasn't the thing to do. He said the return should go straight across the pool and that would move the trash back to the return from either side. He said the swirl would just put trash in the center of the pool. I have no clue. I thought it was supposed to go to the center so you can vaccuum it up easier. Talk to me.
Let me ask you this... I had my deck redone today and the guy saw my pool water spinning. That pump is doing great and almost silent compared to the old one. My return comes out the side of a light(which doesn't work). It circulates the water counter-clockwise. He said that wasn't the thing to do. He said the return should go straight across the pool and that would move the trash back to the return from either side. He said the swirl would just put trash in the center of the pool. I have no clue. I thought it was supposed to go to the center so you can vaccuum it up easier. Talk to me.
I let mine spin counterclockwise usually, and for the same reason you stated. Most things make it to the skimmer and everything else is in a smaller area that can be vacuumed to waste.
I must be the odd man out......I have mine spinning clockwise....
With two returns, I have one pointed slightly to the left yet towards the skimmer, and the other slightly to the left and down to catch the bottom of the pool.
With two returns, I have one pointed slightly to the left yet towards the skimmer, and the other slightly to the left and down to catch the bottom of the pool.