Adding a gas heater - plumbing layout

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B

bradatkins

0
Aug 27, 2012
48
Sudbury, ON, Canada
Hey -

I currently have an 8x20 solar panel heating that I put in last summer. It does a good job, when we have sun. This year I purchased a gas heater and want to add it in. I put the solar in using 3/4" black tube, moreso as a trial. This year I'll be replumbing it with 1.5" PVC.

The manual states that I should not feed from solar into the gas heater. My guess is the water coming out of the panel may be warm and then the gas heater won't trigger.

So my plan is to plumb it such that I use one or the other.

This is what I was thinking:

poolheaterlayout_zps3a6d98d9.png


Just want to make sure I'm not doing anything silly.

Thanks.
 
Ideally, you would have the ability to run the water through the solar first and then the NG heater. Or be able to shut off the solar and just run through the heater. There is really no huge reason to have to bypass the NG heater too, but that would be nice I suppose.

I think you are going to need some more 3-ways ;)

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Note it is always best that the common pipe uses the middle port of the 3-way valve (like your red one, not your blue one)
 
Bypassing the heater on the solar return could be an issue with some heaters alarming unless the heater is shut off (no power) during the use of solar.
 
Is this any better? From a little research it seems preferred to keep water running through the heater. This will allow me to isolate the gas and solar heater if need be. Also it allows me to keep water running through the solar panels as well to keep them cool during the day.

poolheaterlayout3_zps2cf0f568.png


This picture comes from the manual, and leads me to believe that the heater can be bypassed, but maybe that's just if too many GPM

poolheatermanuallayout_zps11bff680.png
 
That should work. Again note the orientation on the 3 way valve is not ideal. May also need a check valve on the solar return before teeing into the heater input.

You could put a limited heater bypass in front of the heater by connecting the pipes with a shut off valve. Closed, all flow goes through heater. Open, some can bypass.
 
So something like this? I don't see how making the filter to NG heater the common pipe being better (since I also would have to put a new 90)

I've put the check valve in, as well as denoted where I will have unions. The unions serve the purpose in-case of replacement/failures, as well to assist with putting things away for winter.

poolheaterlayout4_zps14714009.png
 
No, that is not what I mean. The common pipe is coming out of the filter, which ideally would go the middle port. this gives you better control of the flow through the valve without choking the flow.

It will work either way you drew it, just not optimally.
 

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Yes the middle part of the 3 way tee.

Rotate the valve in your last picture 90 degrees clockwise and move it down slightly. Then a 90 turn in from the filter and a 90 turn out to the heater.
 
You going to move that paver to be under your filter again?

So The 3-way is currently set for all solar right? Doesn't that blue valve need to be open? To me it looks like you can not have any flow in the configuration in the picture.

Did you put a check valve on the solar return that is not in the picture?

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And if you do not want to send all the flow to the solar (like if it is a small solar array), then just turn that 3-way a little CW to allow some of the flow to bypass the solar.

In fact, on a hot day, I would start with the valve in the middle and then slowly close the heater forcing more flow to the solar until the panels are cool to the touch, that will be enough flow for the solar and not over-pressurize them.
 
Yes, I will be putting a paver under the filter.

The 3 way is open to the filter. The blue valve is closed (it should be open). I haven't filled up my pool yet. I was actually just taking a break when I took this pic :)

Basically if there's flow to the solar, blue valve will be open, otherwise closed. I did not put a check valve on the solar return.

I do obviously want to keep the panels cool to the touch on hot days.

I haven't finished glueing any of the solar feed/return yet. I'm just trying to get the main part done so I can close valves and let the pool fill up.

Tonight I hope to finish up some of the solar, but I may run short on 10 ft PVC pipe.

My goal is to have the pool -> gas heater -> pool working before Wednesday morning cause the natural gas guy is coming out.
 
If you used a check valve instead of the blue valve. Then you would only need to turn the 3-way for solar/no solar and not have to remember to close the blue valve as well.

If you ever add a solar controller (which certainly help optimize the heat addition), you will need a check valve on the solar return line.
 
You should also have a check valve right after the filter or the panels will drain backwards through the filter when the pump is shut off.
 
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