Just opened; question about numbers

[jtech1]

I followed a combination of manufacturer and SWG Pool School on here last year... and when I closed my pool in late Sept, my levels were:
FC=9 (half shock level)
pH=7.2
TA=80
CH=260
CYA=40
Salt=3100

I just opened it today... here are my readings after opening and nothing added:
FC=0
pH=7.4
TA=20
CH=40
CYA=0
Salt=400

Now, I expected the FC to be zero and TA to be low, so that is fine. I expected pH to be higher, but was pleasantly surprised it held pretty well, since the plaster was new last year. What I am questioning is the drop in CH and Salt... and to a point CYA also. I removed about 6,000 gallons out of 32,000 gallons before I closed it. I also pumped a few inches out 3 times during the winter. At open, the water level was just about right. So, I know that I exchanged a lot of water, but I did not expect such a large drop in CH and Salt. Is this realistic? Or are these values skewed by temperature, FC=0, or something else?

I had a pretty good year last year (first one owning a pool). Only had slight algae in spots a couple times and had algae form behind all 3 of my color cascade bubbler lenses in the niche. I think that was from lack of water flow in there, BUT, at any rate, I want to make a couple adjustments this year. Are the Pool School SWG levels below still the recommended way to go?

FC: 3-5 ppm
pH: 7.5-7.8
TA: 60-80
CH: 250-350
CYA: 70-80
Salt 200-400 ppm ABOVE recommended optimum level

Last year I kept my CYA 30-50 and TA around 100. If I adjust those two to the recommended levels above, would that possibly keep me from having the issues I had last year?

Thank you for your advice!

 

[Richard320]

Did you let the water circulate well before you tested it?

 

[jtech1]

No. I did not. Those numbers are before I started the circulation.

The only thing I did today was cranked the FC up to 9.5 (3 bags of shock). If I retest tomorrow will I likely see some change in CH and Salt and may be CYA?

At what point should I be brushing? My old brush from PB last year is garbage.. I ordered a better one but it won't be here until Thurs. Does brushing help to remix any salt or CH that has settled on to the walls or is that not really a factor?

Thanks!

 

[Richard320]

You must have the water circulating before you test or treat the water. Brushing also helps top eliminate any dead spots in the flow.

I can't seem to find it now, but there was another member here in the last week who discovered things were nowhere near as bad as he thought, once he got the layer of rainwater mixed in with the remnants of last year's water.

PS found it! http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73620-To-SLAM-or-not-to-SLAM Compare post 1 and 10.

 

[jtech1]

What a difference a day makes! After a day of running the main pump/filter my numbers are more in line with what I was expecting...

FC=5.0 (down from 9.5 yesterday... doing it's job I guess)
pH=??? (what is bright purple on a Taylor test kit??? I am guessing high 8's?
TA=70
CH=200
CYA=30
Salt=2000

This makes much more sense for the items that are only affected by water replacement. And I expected the pH to be a lot higher... how high is bright purple? The plaster was done last June. Shoudl i see teh pH not rise as much this year?

I am going to get the pH, CYA and TA in check... then work on Ch and Salt...

I have to say, that ONE day after opening, my water is looking VERY clear. Aside from leaves and junk that will take some cleaning, I owe it all to the closing procedure on here that I followed! My only concerns were the very high pH over the winter... hoping that did not do any damage to the finish... and the fact that I have brown staining on teh finish in a lot of areas, I am guessing from the leave sthat the cover installer allowed in while installing the cover. Will these disappear with proper FC and brushing, or do I need to do something more?

 

[Richard320]

Purple or magenta?

Check out the pics in this thread. When it was transitioned to the new site, it lost captions. But the pH is the same in each of those three pictures, it just shows what high FC does to the readings. So it could be high FC or it could be true pH, which means off the scale high. Recheck FC and decide.

If it's purple, then I'd suspect bad pH reagent.

 

[jtech1]

Thanks. My FC was only 5, so I am guessing my pH was really in the mid 8's. We'll see where we are today after a gallon of acid yesterday. If not for the temp being 58, the water is almost swimmable after only two days!