verify I installed this correctly correct voltage

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supercanadian

supercanadian

0
Aug 19, 2012
162
London Ontario Canada
I am replacing my pool pump and just want to be sure I wired this correctly. I think my old pump was 120v and set my new pump to 120 as well. Both say they can be either 220/120.

My old pump is a pentiar superflo.

Here is the old pump with the old wiring setup and the wiring diagram from the pump.





And here is how I wired my new pump a Hayward super pump



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on my new pump i have the white neutral to L1 and the black hot wire to L2 I assume that is correct....
 
To start with I'd try and find the other end of those wires and confirm that they are 120.
(Blk to breaker and wht to neutral buss). Mine went through the mechanical timer before the breaker.

Then I'd read the manual to triple check that they are hooked up to the pump correctly.

Then I'd try my best to keep my body as far from the panel as possible while throwing the breaker in case of a problem/ arc flash.



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As Jason said, old pump was set to 230V. DO NOT connect it the way you have it. Can you find the breaker box where the feed wires come from? If there is a breaker on both wires, it's 230V and you need to change the new pump wiring. If the black goes to a breaker, and white goes to a copper bus bar, it's 110V and the way you have it is fine..
 
Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the input! I looked at my breaker and it looks like it must be 220 as it a 40 amp breaker. The panel box in the pool shed says 220 on it too. Can I just move the black thing on the new pump to the 220 setting and be OK? I've pretty much replicated what was on the old pump. Only two wires came to it. The black wire came from the on/off switch to the old pump on L2. On the new pump I put on L2, and the white was on L1.

I think the new pump needs to be 220 so I just moved the black block over to the 220 setting. I've not turned it on. Power is still off.

I have no idea how to verify the the panel box. That is beyond my skills, all I can tell is it 40 amp break labeled 220.

Thanks for any help! I would hate to have to call an electrican out just for this as it should be pretty straight forward for someone not as simple minded as me!
 
If you are having this much confusion, you really should call an electrician.

Some of what you are saying doesn't make sense. You really shouldn't have a 40 amp breaker for a pool pump. Hopefully you don't and you are just mixed up somehow. Likewise you shouldn't have a white wire on a 230 volt pump, white is a 120 volt only color. But the old pump was clearly setup for 230 volts.

At this point there are enough inconsistencies, that getting someone who is licensed and knows how to do this kind of thing safely is a really good idea.
 
Its just odd that it can be this hard.

I have two wires running from the GFI outlet box to a two pole light/toggle switch that had two wires plus ground running to my old pump I would have thought I should be able to sub out the old pump for a new one! argh. the two wires running from the light switch/toggle were black/white with a ground. I moved the black box in the third picture to align to 220 so it should literally be the same setup. I don't think that the breaker in the house or the shed is wrong. When i bought this house i had two home inspectors review it both certified, the second person was a pool inspector.

The wire comes from the house to a master switch in the shed, from there it goes to a GFI outlet. from that to a toggle/light switch. I mean i just had a pool heater installed and they used a certified electrician so I have to be able to make this happen without having to call one out haha.

At this point I might as well just put the old pump back in as it was working fine and leave it as it haha.
 
My bad the breaker in the house is 20amp not 40...i was looking at another one!

Here is the setup.


and here is the new pump i changed to read 220.



So I am not to use the white wire? On the old setup which was clearly 220 it was used, but not on the new one? I read that for 220 it is two wires. I am sorry for the confusion, thanks everyone for the help!
 
20 amp breaker is good.

The new pump is now wired consistently with the way the old pump was wired.

For 230 volt circuits you use two black wires. For 115 volt circuits you use a white and a black. If you run out of black wire when wiring 230 volt circuits and must use white you are supposed to mark the ends of the wire black, even if it was originally white so there is no confusion about 115 or 230.
 
Thanks again for all the help and direction. I very much appreciate it.

I just bought this place two years ago. I thought switch that controls on/off for the pump was old and tired looking. I replaced it with a heavy duty switch and also ran new wire and conduit from it to the pump. Matching the same gauge and connections to the old switch to the new one. Took pictures of the old and new setup all along the way for reference.

The wiring to the new pump was mirrored as well. I ran the black wire where the old black wire was on the switch, and white to white in the box with toggle switch. Ground to ground. I think my only verification now is to confirm again that my old pump was set to 220 and that my new one now is too according to my last picture. I think feel comfortable now that my wiring is correct.

My pool opening is wednesday (I use a company to open) since I have a safety cover and it is pretty heavy!



*******Update...oh I get it. so it is two hot wires...just they used the standard wire conduit which is always coloured black/wire with a single copper ground. Rommex wire. I never checked to see if mine was labeled but I did take pictures. Now I bet if I traced it back to the GFI it would be both hot coming out of the outlet. I just assumed it was hot/neutral because it was white LOL. OK so since I mirrored the setup I should be good.
 
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Just because things are supposed to always be wired right, does not mean that it always happens in reality. I was helping a relative replace a damaged (cracked) dryer outlet a couple of weeks ago, and when I got the cover off I found that whoever hooked it up originally used 4 red wires, even the ground wire was red. They were all on the correct terminals, just wrong color coding. I told them that they really should get that fixed right before something bad happens, but I doubt they will.

Ike
 
For 230 volts, you should have a switch that opens and closes both wires at the same time. If only one leg is being opened and closed by the switch, it is the wrong switch.

Have you used a meter to verify the voltage being supplied?
 
240 volt systems are commonly wired using romex type wire with black and white conductors. It is a NEC requirement that the white be re-marked with tape, paint or other means to identify it as a hot wire. It is commonly not done. One of the first things we teach new apprentices is that neutral is always white (north America) but, white is not always neutral. Looking at the last set of pictures I can not verify for sure that it is all 120 volt. My assumption, by looking at what is there is that everything is 120 volt. Does the white wire that goes thru the sill plate feed the pump or is it the armored cable going thru the stud that feeds it? 30 seconds with a volt/ohm meter could clear up the whole thing.

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supercanadian said:
I was looking this morning and the old toggle switch I removed is only rated for 120v yet the old pump was wired for 220? argh.
Click to expand...
a switch in one leg of a 240 circuit will stop power flow and shut off the pump


supercanadian said:
I am having an electrician friend stop by today. safety first.
Click to expand...
Probably the best thing to do. Let us know what he finds.
 
I thought while I wait I'd upload a few more pictures to see if I can correct it before he gets here. I do have a voltmeter but don;t want to turn power on as everything is still winterized.

Here is the view of the wires coming out of the main feed. the silver box at the top is the on/off outside switch for my heater.



Here is the wire continued. I have a few outlets and an overhead light in the shed that run out of that last conjunction box on the right hand side



Here is the that conjunctio box. top wire comes out and goes to the on/off switch to the heater. the right side continues on to the outlets and lights in the shed.




And one more side view.




I worry if I turn the power to test the voltage something will be ruined as the heater and pool are still fully winterized.

 
Using a multimeter is probably the way to figure it out.

Do you know anyone with electrical skills? It'd be worth to pay someone $50 to double check everything. I'd imagine an electrician or pool repair guy could take care of it.


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UPDATE:

Had my buddy stop by with a voltmeter and low and behold I have 120 running to my pump! The two wires black/white coming to the pump when powered only 1 has voltage 120, the other nothing. So the question is now...how did the pentair pump that was hooked up for years run fine for so long since it is clearly wired for 220?

I have now set my new hayward pump to 120 via the jumper.

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do you mean that old looking grey box that the main wire runs into? i can take the top off it and post a pic if that would help.
 

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