Opening/refill pool in Sacramento

[dvrjon]

We had a small crack in plaster and had to drain the pool for repairs. Refill was about 95% of capacity with city water.

I'm using the TF-100 kit to assess levels and Pool Math to establish targets, and SLooooowly raising factors. I'm maintaining middle of the road PH while running high Chlorine to keep algae in check. Overnight drop tests have stabilized, so Chlorine will be reducing.

Numbers:

Start.....................Current................Goal
FC = 0.....................16.......................4
CC = 0......................1.......................0
TC = 0.....................17.......................4
PH = 7.8..................7.5....................7.4
TA = 70....................90....................100
CH = 40..................140....................300
CYA = 0....................50.....................70
Salt = 1800.............2800.................3000

Notes: TA and CH: I intend to run these at top end of the recommendations to produce a CSI of -0.45. If I push the CH to 350, the CSI goes to -0.38 which feels like a happy place to be.
CYA: SWC is ready to operate; Water Temp is 65*, so reading may be a bit low. I'm raising this slowly, with one-week time between measurements and additional dosage. That should keep me from overshooting.
Salt: Salt was balanced, but we had major storms here a couple of days ago and it diluted the salt concentration. I'll bring it back into line once the TA and CH are where I want them.

Would appreciate any comments/guidance (including, "Oh, gee, don't"), especially the limits chosen for TA and CH.

Thanks, in advance.

JR

 

[JasonLion]

CH at 300 or even 350 is fine, but I very much doubt that you want to raise TA. Raising TA is going to make your PH go up constantly.

PH is better around 7.7 or 7.8. The only reason to lower it below there is if it is constantly rising. The lower you adjust PH the more rapidly it will go up.

Since it is early in the season, I would aim salt for around 3400, so it will still be reasonable at the end of the season (it tends to drift down).

If you haven't already take a look at the recommended levels article in Pool School.

 

[dvrjon]

Jason--Thanks. Your fine tuning recommendations are exactly what I needed at this point.

I started with the Pool School numbers, but have been using the TF-100 targets simply because they were outside with the kit and I was trying to get into the right neighborhood.

Then I looked at the PoolMath calculator and started making some shifts to get away from the CSI -0.6 floor.

The PH of 7.4 was a driver, because, at that level, the grandkids stopped complaining (and Grandma stopped beating on me). G-kids are 12, 7, 6, 5 and 3, so there is varying sensitivity.

However, I can see with PoolMath that a PH @ 7.8 along with TA @ 80 and CH @ 350, puts the CSI -0.15 and gives me some room to work the sensitivities.

And now that I can focus on it, my SWC does recommend 3400 for salt.

Many thanks.

JR

So I'll see if I can get "customer" satisfaction with PH @ 7.8, as that seems to be a good stabilization point for this pool.

 

[tbsimmons]

As it gets warmer you will need to lower the PH. I keep mine in the 7.8+ range till the pool starts getting 75+ degrees then lower it. Basically whatever it balances at as long as it it below 8. You will see in the Pool calculator.
I dont have a SWC though just use the Bleach.
Watch the temp though like I said above. As the temp increases you will need to lower the PH some, 7.5 range has worked for me in the lower 80's temp.