Replacing Multiport Valve, Sand Filter too?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
JVTrain

JVTrain

0
TFP Expert
Feb 3, 2014
5,070
Central Minnesota
I have a pinhole leak on the bottom of my multiport valve, Hayward SP0715. Very small stream of water steadily leaks from bottom, front of valve. Was likely was installed in early 90s. Also have an old stainless steel PacFab PF-50 sand filter installed at the same time.

My question is, should I replace the sand filter at the same time as the valve due to it's vintage? As far as I know the sand filter works OK with limited time I've been able to run it (a few hours) this spring. If I do decide to replace, I know I want to go sand or DE. Any suggestions or should I hold off on replacing filter too?
 
It is best to replace the multi-port and filter at the same time. They generally are a matched set, with post spacing designed to be compatible (there isn't a real standard). Also an old steel filter can't have all that much life time left. They haven't been made in a while and most of them are long gone at this point.
 
How often were you having to backwash your current filter?

Since you are likely looking for a new filter, my typical recommendation for your big pool would be a 31" sand filter or a 72 sqft DE. Having a shorter season, you may be able to get by with something a little smaller if you do not mind cleaning it more often.
 
I certainly don't mind cleaning as our season is pretty short here. No real reference for how often I'd be cleaning as I've never had the pool open.

I am leaning toward replacing both.

I'll do some more reading here about DE vs Sand.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
I've settled on a sand filter. Any thoughts on top mounted valves versus side mount? Mine is currently a side mount which seems to be a more "modular" assembly where the top mounts are closer to being a single unit or integrated multiport. Thinking if I'm going to be plumbing the new valve and filter, the top mount would be simpler? Is there a difference in performance or longevity to be considered?

So far my choice is leaning at the Hayward S270T2: http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/ProSeries-S270T.pdf
 
JasonLion said:
I prefer side mount filters. Top mount filters can't be serviced unless you disconnect the plumbing (which is usually glued in).
Click to expand...

I thought about this too. Only way to do it sensibly would be to install a union between the every pipe connected to the multiport. Side mount eliminates that problem.

Yep the old filter is 22". 2.6 sq ft, 50 GPM. I'll have to look how long my pump should take to turn it over.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
jblizzle said:
I am not sure what you mean by that. Turn over has nothing to do with the filter and is really meaningless as far as determining how long to run the pump: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/152-determine-pump-run-time
Click to expand...

Admittedly I don't know enough about pump size, filter size and run time at this point but I'm trying my best to make an informed and economical decision on where to go with replacement of the filter and multiport while retaining my current pump. I have more learning and reading to do!
 
Filters are only rated for a maximum flow rate. The fact that you are going larger then you existing filter with the same pump will mean the the flow through the sand bed will be slower and have better filtration.

Filters should generally sized based on the pool size, debris load, length of season.
Pumps should be generally sized based on the water flow you need (spa, waterfall, or just filtration, etc).
Run time is just dependent on pool size, debris load, and how clean you want the pool to look.

They are all pretty independent usually.
 
Yep. My current ol' timer filter and valve look like this:



As I said, pinhole crack on the current valve with pretty much every connection to it with a slow drip and visible cracks on the outsides of the valve top perimeter.

Have all the shut offs I want on the inlet side (skimmer 1, skimmer 2, floor drain). When I remove the Nature2, I may put in shut offs to each return but I'm not as concerned with the outlet side shut offs. Can't see it in the picture well but a shut off to isolate the heater from the loop... that I'd like to do as well. Will research options on how to do that while I'm at the plumbing.

Also have no clue where the booster pump used to lead to... it only is hooked to an outlet line that goes who knows where. Probably will remove the booster and cap that line, unless I figure out what it's for.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply