A chlorine test kit would show the bromine that is produced when you add an oxidizer such as chlorine or non-chlorine shock (MPS). The units of bromine are 2.25 times higher than that of chorine so 1 ppm FC is 2.25 ppm Total Bromine and the test does not distinguish between them. You can assume that if you've added sodium bromide to the pool that you are producing bromine, not chlorine. The only way to get back go a chlorine pool is to do a complete drain and refill to remove nearly all the bromide. Adding sodium bromide to water is a one-way street to converting to using bromine instead of chlorine. Only if the amount of sodium bromide added was fairly small, only a few ppm, could the bromine outgas over months. Didn't United Chemical, the makers of No Mor Problems that you used, tell you that? Why do you trust manufacturers rather than the unbiased truthful advice of this forum?
There is no simple test for testing bromide. There is a somewhat complicated combination of tests you can use that take advantage of the fact that monobromamine shows up as FC while monochloramine does not. If you have an accurate chlorine test kit, preferably a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit, then you first measure the FC and the CC where the latter is usually zero or close to it. You then take another pool water sample and add ammonia to it in a quantity that should produce monochloramine so some molar excess of ammonia. If you had 10% ammonium hydroxide (concentrated household ammonia) then you need at least 0.003 Taylor-sized drops added to a 25 ml water sample. So you could dilute your household ammonia by adding one ounce of it to one gallon of non-chlorinated water (NOT tap water, but distilled or deionized water) and then add one Taylor-sized drop from that gallon to your sample and wait one minute. If your FC was chlorine, then you should now see it as CC instead and FC would be 0. If your FC was bromine, then you should still see it reporting as FC (CC would be 0).
