I moved this question i had in another section to here. I should have posted it here first...My circupool si45 is reading high salt sometimes i noticed. Its showing 4700ppm on the unit? It still says generating but the high salt level is flashing sometimes. If i need too lower the salt level, what level to i need to bring it down too and how much water should i expect to drain/add? Thanks guys
Salt level too high?
- Thread starter Cpool
- Start date
Are you able to test for salt yourself ? I'm not sure how accurate the unit reads. If you can't I would get a salt test from Dave at TFTestkits.
Another member of the forum is having a very similar symptom. As long as the unit doesn't shutdown, I wouldn't worry about it. The salt level in the pool will tend to drift down over the course of the season, so the high salt warning shouldn't last that long.
Like Jason said, I would leave it alone if it is generating and only giving a warning every now and then. But, if you are having problems use Pool Math, see the link in my signature, and plug in your values. To go from 4700 down to 4000 it says you should replace 15% of the water.
I have the same unit and have been running around 4100-4400 salinity over the past few weeks. I'd probably do as ping suggested and replace some of the water.
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Get a taylor r-1766 salinity tester if you're concerned. My Taylor test says it's 4000 now while both my instant and average on the control box say it's 4700. I'm not going to be draining water because of it. My cell has not stopped generating chlorine. My high salt led is always flashing. As long as I know what my salinity really is and is generating chlorine I'm not going to worry about it. If it should increase to over 5000 which is impossible if I'm not adding any salt then I'll really be concerned because I have some strangers in my back yard sabotoging my pool. I've got a sig sauer fix to that.
if you keep your percentage down to 95 unit will be happy
mine only trips with high salt and 100 percent
mine only trips with high salt and 100 percent
The unit will protect itself if salinity gets too high, so as long as it is generating there is no need to take action if you are sure the reading is fairly accurate. If you test your water and the unit is reading 400 ppm or more than actual, check the cell for debris; it only takes a little hair, grass, or lint stuck between the plates to affect the conductivity and result in a false reading. Excessive calcium buildup that bridges from one plate to the next can cause the same thing.
Hi Don, good to see you here! Guess I need to disconnect my cell again and flush it out or something as my instant was 4800 when I reinstalled the original unit-- since I got it back, the average has always been over 5000, and in the last few days, the instant has been as high as 5500. My Taylor k-1766 had consistently shown 4200 max and recently 4000 after heavy rains a week ago. During this whole time, it has been generating chlorine, and a high salt flashing light. Thank you and Juddy for your superb customer support!!!
I was being told that I needed either a new mother board or a new salt cell (mine is 8 years old - way beyond the expected 3-5 years). After reading post after post on this forum and others, I took the mother board off to check the soldering for K1 on the back of the mother board, but it was fine. That suggestion did help many other readers. My salt is around 3300 but reads 1700 which turned the chlorinator off. I then found another suggestion to recalibrate the salt reading and now my pool is chlorinating and life is good again.
Unfortunately I've been told there is no calibration possible on mine. The manual says to hold the status button to reset, but that doesn't do anything immediately seen.