I want to hard plumb this year!

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J

jasonlk1

0
Jun 4, 2012
92
NW CT
I did a little research on the subject but didn't come across what I was looking for yet. 2 things:

1. Will regular PVC threaded fittings from had or lowes work on my filter, skimmer, and return?

2. I want to add a second return. Any suggestion on the best way to drill the hole without dumping the water level below the return line other than to work fast and wear a swim suit and plastic bag around the drill!?

Thanks
 
Standard 1.5" schedule 40 PVC pipe is what is used---if not 2". Good luck on installing that second return with the pool pouring out the hole though! I'd just drop the level.
 
You could do like others have and put the interior portion of the bulkhead in a bowl, hold the bowl on the inside of the pool over where you want the hole, cut the hole, pull the bulkhead in and tighten it up and install the pipe/valve, then remove the bowl. That is what the Intex people do, not sure will work for you though.
 
I think I will try the bucket or bowl trick. I don't really want to lower the water level on my 21X43 foot pool and have to refill it with my well!

I did take some of the parts off my skimmer and return and went to HD to look at fittings. It looks like the 1 1/2" PVC will work fine. I did look at the unions and ball valves they had as well. After doing some more searching here it sounds like tfp does not recommend the HD ball valves. You guys like the regular pool valves. I didn't come across a reason why though? It looks like there is about a 30-$40 difference in price between the valves. I will need at least 3 on mine just to be able to shut off so I can work or clean the pump basket or filter. I'm just wondering if I really need to spend another $90-$120 on the pool valves when they will only be used unpressurized and several times a year? Any thoughts?

Thanks
 
Drain the water level. You don't realize how much pressure is in there and the bag over the drill will not work. Your wall is not flexible enough to do the bowl method. You will be thankful once you have done it the correct way. It will save you alot of hassle.
 
The complaints I've seen about the ball valves are that they are hard to turn and eventually they become brittle and the tab things break leaving you with nothing to hold to turn. Apparently the more expensive pool ones are easier to turn and don't break. It looks like a lot of people use the HD or lowes pvc ball valves though...

I have an intex and I just didn't put in any ball valves (I decided to go with the least joints possible). Only reason I need to close anything off is to clean the filter or pump basket and I am using the little screw in return plugs for that.
 
I have to put ball valves onto every connection in my pool as per Australian regulations.... I'm not hard plumbing my pool, I'm changing the connections at my 2 suction sides, so I can get better flow, I've decided to go with spa hose for my hoses, so I am going to get the heavy duty ball valves, just so I don't have to replace them....
 
I am in the process of getting a materials list together to hard plumb mine ate the same time I upgrade from the OE 750-1000 gph cartridge pump to a 2100gph sand filter. Already have a SWG and have a stand alone 750-1000 gph solar heater setup that I need to take into account for as well. So I will be watching these hard plumbing threads for tips and advice
 
I used some Lowe's PVC ball valves and just as Beens said, within a couple years, the handles were breaking off, leaving me to open & close them with Channellocks. I've been switching over to Hayward stuff as needed. For the time or cost of installation, it's worth the money to buy good material in the first place.
 

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I am finding that the valves I bought at the local hardware store have to be turned daily to keep them from mechanically freezing. Yes, I've had the handle break off of one.


When I have to replace them, I will be going with pool rated.
 
Well it sounds like maybe I should go with pool valves then.

On another note I stopped at the local pool store this morning to get a return to add. When I told them what I was doing they said no! Huh!? They said agp have 1 return for a reason why do you want to add another one? I said for better circulation and collection. The pool is 21X43 with 1 return and skimmer. On the far end if the pool is not used regularly it will start to get algae growth on walls and floor, also that's where anything that floors falls to the floor. So my thought was to add another return to get the water circulating and at the same time add a poolskim to help the 1 skimmer I have. She said my pump prob won't handle another return like that. Idk what do you guys think?

The new return will be about 37-40 feet from the pump and it will all be 1.5 PVC lines on the whole system. Will I be ok? Was this idea a good one?

Thanks
 
I think most pool store employees generally do not know what they are talking about :)

Adding another return is fine, you may want to include valving to adjust the return to each so you can dial in between the poolskim and regular return.
 
I'm not so knowledgeable on the pump side and I'm sure someone can and will help you... but don't tell the pool store what you're doing.lol You can do anything you want as long as you have the right tools, equipment and knowledge to complete the task. Run all your questions through the forum. You will more than likely get better advice. I don't like it when someone tells me NO... You can't do that!!! uhmmmm yeah I can AND I WILL. :mrgreen:
 
That pool store employee has no idea. My Intex 1/2hp pump handles 2 returns easily, and I can add a third with no problems. you have more than 3x the pump I have, and only 1 return? If it were mine, I'd think about adding 2 or 3 more!
 
Update!

I did the hard plumbing with no issues. I did spend the extra $ on the pool store ball valves. 1 1/2 PVC schedule 40 was used with no problems.

I did add a second return on the opposite side of the pool for my poolskim. First we love the poolskim it works great. Second I used a small 1 gallon bucket and put the pool side of the return in the bucket and used a hole saw to cut the hole in the pool wall. I had a helper hold the bucket against the pool wall as I drilled. I reached I and grabbed the pool side piece and screwed the outside piece together against the wall. It took all of 2 mins and I lost maybe a quart of water in the process. Neither one of us got wet other than the helpers arm inside the pool. No need to drain for something like that. A skimmer size hole maybe different but for a hole less than 2 inches I say no.

We also saw what seems to big a difference in flow now that we have gotten rid of the corrugated flex pipe to the PVC.

Thanks for the help!
 

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