Solar Automation - GL235 vs Aquasolar vs Aquasolar TC

[PrivatePilot]

Ok, here's my setup - 4x20 panel on the roof, standard 1HP run of the mill Hayward pump that typically runs on a timer. Last year I relied on manual control of the system to maximize solar gain, but I've decided to automate things this year...but I'm debating between the three automation systems in the title.

I want the system to be able to override my timer, a key factor for me. We pay time of use for our electricity here in Ontario so daytime (peak) power is signifigantly more expensive, so the timer typically focuses the bulk of my water turnover time overnight during off peak times, but the solar automation needs to be able to override the timer to actually circulate water through the collectors through the day when the controller determines it's worthwhile.

Initially I thought only the "Aquasolar TC" had the ability to override the pump, but I've discovered, if I'm reading things correctly, that it's little more than a glorified version of the GL235 with a built in timer, but the GL235 CAN override teh pump as well, it just doesn't have the built in timer? And the "Aquasolar" is basically a bare bones model without the high voltage (aka, pump control) relay?

It's rather confusing. Basically, if the GL235 is capable of powering on my pump whenever the solar panels are in the loop, this is the system I am thinking I'm going to opt for, but I need clarification.

Thanks!
Mark

 

[JasonLion]

The GL235 can optionally have a relay to turn on the pump. It is sold with or without the relay, or you can add the relay later. The models with -HV at the end include the relay.

The AquaSolar can also optionally have a relay to turn on the pump. It also has an option to include a time clock. It is sold without the relay or time clock, or with both the relay and time clock. However a separate relay can be added to the base model.

 

[PrivatePilot]

Ok, thanks. I think when I was searching I came across some of your old posts about the GL235 that detailed that.

The only issue is that now it looks like the HV or LV designations may be no more - it appears (based on what I can dig up now) that the current GL235 model has the relay controls, or at least the ability to control a booster pump which could be utilized (via a relay if necessary, I'm electrically savvy) to control the pump directly...but it appears that they now have both the booster and direct pump control ability built in.

The lack of the HV/LV designations on the new GL235's is what led me to the confusion initially after reading the posts from a year or three back designating the requirement for the "HV" model if you wanted the GL235 to control the pump.

Here's the manual for the current model GL235 - it clearly states that it has the high voltage circuitry built in with no mention of a different model requirement for such.

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/GLC235.pdf

 

[peterdaly]

Am I right it would also be required to run a thermometer to the pool to get the pool temp? You can't tap into the pipe the normal way, since without the pump running, the temperature in the pipe will not reflect the actual pool temp, and the temperature deltas week not be accurate for proper solar control.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

[PrivatePilot]

Yes, the poolside differential sensor must be as close as possible to the pool. My return lines are accessable under my decking (pool is an on-ground with just enough above ground that I can still access the returns) so I can get the sensor within a few inches of the actual pool at the return which should suffice.

 

[JasonLion]

Hum, they have changed the part numbers. Both models are still listed in their web site, now with identical part numbers, but the one with the relay seems to be the primary listing and the low voltage only model (Solar Pool Control with low voltage output) seems to be on the way out as you can't get to it from the primary menus and it is no longer mentioned in their brochure.

In any case, if there still is a low voltage only model, it can be upgraded to switch high voltage as well by adding the relay.

 

[Isaac-1]

I have the AquaSolar AQ-LV-TC which I feel is a god all in one unit, at the time I installed it I needed a new pump timer so going with the integrated option seemed logical. I also added a RIB relay connected to the "booster pump" relay output to make it force my 2 speed pump into high speed mode when the solar came on, and otherwise run in low speed mode based on the integrated timer. One of the nice things about the Aquasolar vs the GL235 is the digital temperature display which can show pool temperature, goal temperature, panel temperature, and optional freeze sensor temperature.

Rib relay is shown on the left of the aquasolar, sorry about the blurry picture There are more details in this thread http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/57403-Solar-Controller-and-Above-Ground-Pool

Having said all that if I had it all to do over again I would seriously look at the Pentair Suntouch, it is not much more money for a much more computerized front panel programable option.

Ike

 

[PrivatePilot]

Thanks guys - yes, it looks like Hayward is getting out of the different GL235 models, unifying it into a single model that supports both pump and booster pump control, so it'll do what I'm wanting.

I looked at the suntouch, but it looks like the controller alone is in the $250-$300 range, with another $150 for the motorized valve separately, putting it several hundred dollars more than the Hayward combo kit that includes both the controller and the valve for around $250. I will agree that the 235 is pretty basic, but I can do without a display of temperatures and all that - I have a few sensors tied into my weather station anyways that relays my pool temperature to my weather station software on my computer so I can see my pool temp from anywhere in the world updated every few seconds.

 

[Isaac-1]

The digital display for temperature can be handier than you might think, Last year about 6 months after installing my system the roof top solar temperature sensor started reading about 10-15 degrees low. Meaning it would be slow turning on the panels and turn them off while there was still a lot of potential heat available. If it were not for the digital display for the sensor temperatures I have no idea how long it would have taken me to spot the problem. As it is I probably took several weeks to notice it, since it happened when there was still a bit of an excess of solar heat available.

Ike

 

[PrivatePilot]

Honestly, I think I'm just going to crank it to the highest setting and let it heat the pool whenever there's a sliver of heat to be had - living in the northern climes the nights can be cool even in the summer and it's not out of the ordinary for my pool to loose several degrees of the solar gain it made through the day at night again. If it ever gets too hot I can then crank it back down a bit manually.

I ordered the GL235 today via an eBay seller..a little over $300 to my door - about a third of what most pool places wanted for the kit up here.....ridiculous. And Canadian retailers wonder why cross border and online shopping is still a going concern even with our dollar down 10% now.

 

[PrivatePilot]

Received the GL235 in the mail today. I can confirm that the "new" model (which can be identified by the control panel being white with blue waves instead of the old style black with blue spheres) DOES support a high voltage pump circuit right out of the box. It can be wired to control either a booster pump or with a timer override.. I plan on using the latter.

 

[PrivatePilot]

The system is now installed and once again I can confirm that it is happily controlling my one horsepower Hayward pool pump automatically.

I one and only issue with the system so far is that after opening my pool on Saturday the water is so cold that the GL 235 wants to run my solar panels continuously (including overnight) because the ambient air temperature has been actually a few degrees warmer than the pool water at that point. Obviously this would result in an extremely marginal heat gain and isn't energy-efficient in the grand scheme of things, so I've had to manually disable the system overnight.

I expect that after another handful of warm sunny days once the pool water temperature surpasses the evening and overnight ambient air temperatures I won't have this problem anymore, obviously.