PSI too high?

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allenzak

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Apr 19, 2014
35
Southern California
Hi guys, new to the forum. Seen a lot of good information flow through here (pun intended) and I thought I'd post something to get some help.

New pool owner. When I bought the house, I noticed 15PSI is about where the pool filter PSI would show - and that was good flow. I have a Hayward DE6020 that I have running 3 hours a day. But I can't get it to maintain that PSI. Even after back flushing for 10-15 minutes it still stays high at around 24/26 PSI. Seems to work fine for a couple days and then by the weekend it's back up to that range. Then I'll turn it on in the morning while I scrub, and it looks good, then after I'm done, it's back up that high number with no flow. Should I back flush before and after scrubbing?

I was under the impression that cleaning the filters is supposed to be 3-4 times a year, its that correct? Of course it works great right after I clean them, but certainly wasn't planning on doing that every weekend.

And how often (weekly, a couple times a month, etc) and for how long is the recommended time to back flush?

Bottom line - what is the best way to keep my filter at 15ish PSI all the time?

Summer is upon us and the wife is in dire need of a clean pool. Thanks in advance for all the help.
 
Welcome to TFP!

How often you need to clean the filter depends on the relative size of your pool and filter. Small filters on large pools may need to be cleaned very often. Large filters on small pools can often go a whole season between cleanings.

Have you opened up the filter and done a full clean out yet this season (or at the end of last season)? DE filters should be opened up and completely cleaned out at least once a season.

Also, how does the water look? Cloudy/murky water means much more frequent filter backwashing/cleaning.
 
The biggest problem I'd say is algae forming on the sides and settling on the bottom (which is only worse with my flow issue). Typically after I clean, there is still some algae that I can't get off on the sides (any help on that would be great!), but I usually scrub and then vacuum. I notice a lot of the scrub settling on the bottom when the flow isn't working right, which makes sense. Usually through the week the water itself actually looks okay (other than the algae on the walls and floor), then gets green and cloudy after I scrub. Chemical balance all checks out okay based on the test strip.

I just cleaned the filter 3 or 4 weeks ago. I feel like getting that flow right will solve most of my problems, but I just can't seem to maintain it. If I can figure out what I need to do (i.e. you guys tell me) on a regular basis to maintain that flow, I'd be in good shape.
 
Welcome to the forum. Sad to say but those test strips may be most of your problem. Have you considered one of the test kits recommended here? Can you post a full set of test results? The biggest contradiction you have is that your "chemical balance checks ok".......but yet you seem to have persistent algae. Your filter could be clogging rapidly dues to constantly sucking in dead and dying algae. You're probably just on the high side of a full blown algae outbreak. Make sense? Spend some time in pool school and read up on how to SLAM your pool. Life will be so much easier with a good test kit.
 
allenzak said:
The biggest problem I'd say is algae forming on the sides and settling on the bottom (which is only worse with my flow issue). Typically after I clean, there is still some algae that I can't get off on the sides (any help on that would be great!), but I usually scrub and then vacuum. I notice a lot of the scrub settling on the bottom when the flow isn't working right, which makes sense. Usually through the week the water itself actually looks okay (other than the algae on the walls and floor), then gets green and cloudy after I scrub. Chemical balance all checks out okay based on the test strip.

I just cleaned the filter 3 or 4 weeks ago. I feel like getting that flow right will solve most of my problems, but I just can't seem to maintain it. If I can figure out what I need to do (i.e. you guys tell me) on a regular basis to maintain that flow, I'd be in good shape.
Click to expand...

A DE filter will clog extremely quickly if you have algae in the pool. You need to address the chemical problem that is allowing the algae to grow and the filtration issue will clear up. You need more chlorine in the pool and need to maintain a consistent level of chlorine. Since you have algae, you need to follow the SLAM process to get it under control. Start by reading http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/126-defeating-algae
 
Reinforcing the above, your problem is chemistry....not filtration.

Once you get your water cleaned up (rid of algae) your psi will stay down and you won't have to backwash nearly as often
 
But you can't SLAM if all you have is test strips for water testing! You won't be able to keep track of what you're doing and you'll waste a lot of time and energy. (And possibly money if you're buying bleach too!)

You have to be able to test the water accurately and often and at higher levels of chlorine than strips and most store-bought test kits can do.
 
I'm going to get one of those FAS-DPD kits from Leslie's by my house (Amazon Prime is out of stock, any other suggestions in terms of getting the best value?) because I want to get started early Saturday. My weekly regimen has been (we all know inadequate) a scoop of shock, a tab of chlorine, some phos-free and acid (if needed). Then scrub and vacuum.

Any guesses on how much chlorine I'll need for the SLAM? I usually drop in a tab a week, pool is about 13K gallons. And should I buy some stabilizer? It reads as though I can adjust my amount of chlorine based on whatever my CYA is, but is there an ideal range to be in? And, for my size pool, any thoughts on how much chlorine is needed to move the needle? Ie add X number of scoops to move your FC Y number of units.

I just want to grab everything I need this week and take Saturday and Sunday to just knock it all out - kill all the algae, scrub, backflush, clean the filter, etc.

Thanks for all the help guys! What a great website & forum!
 
The best value would be buying the TF-100 test kit from poolsupplyworld.com who is in CA and will get it to you quickly.

If you have been using tablets and powders, likely your stabilizer is too high already and you may need to start with replacing water.

You need to read Pool School and change your ways. You can just keep adding scoops of stuff with no understanding of what it is adding to your pool. Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

How long did it take for your pool to get algae? It is not going to be fixed in a day. You need to follow the SLAM Process for as long as it takes ... could be days, could be weeks.

EDIT: Also when you have test results, you will then use PoolMath to help you figure out how much of what chemical should be added to make a desired adjustment.
 

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allenzak said:
I'm going to get one of those FAS-DPD kits from Leslie's by my house (Amazon Prime is out of stock, any other suggestions in terms of getting the best value?) because I want to get started early Saturday. My weekly regimen has been (we all know inadequate) a scoop of shock, a tab of chlorine, some phos-free and acid (if needed). Then scrub and vacuum.

Any guesses on how much chlorine I'll need for the SLAM? I usually drop in a tab a week, pool is about 13K gallons. And should I buy some stabilizer? It reads as though I can adjust my amount of chlorine based on whatever my CYA is, but is there an ideal range to be in? And, for my size pool, any thoughts on how much chlorine is needed to move the needle? Ie add X number of scoops to move your FC Y number of units.

I just want to grab everything I need this week and take Saturday and Sunday to just knock it all out - kill all the algae, scrub, backflush, clean the filter, etc.

Thanks for all the help guys! What a great website & forum!
Click to expand...
A weekend may not be enough time. How much bleach? Who knows? It depends on your CYA level. One 8 oz puck and 8 oz of diclor adds 5 ppm/week CYA. If the scoops are bigger, so is the CYA buildup. It wouldn't surprise me at all if your CYA level is 200 or better. I know when I took over my pool, I was somewhere in the 220-240 range. Luckily, my pool was clear, so I didn't have to SLAM it. You may discover a partial drain and refill is called for first. Even with tiered rates, it might be cheaper than all the extra chlorine you'll need. Not sure what your water company is, but check their website. Or call customer service. Sometimes they waive the tiered rates if you are refilling a pool. Usually tyhey allow it every 3 years.

If you buy the kit at Leslies, BE SURE you get the FAS-DPD test kit. They usually have the K-2005 equivalent in stock, which is a DPD test. They are not the same!

As a good source for bleach, plug your zip code in here: http://www.hasapool.com/dealer_locator_hasa.php
 
I swear those clowns at Leslie's are useless. I asked them over the phone, specifically, if they have a FAS-DPD test, twice. And twice they said yes. I get there, and he says he didn't know there was a difference between FAS and FAS-DPD. I weep for our future. I'm going to order one on online and will post the results when I get the test and test my water. Then you guys can do what you do and tell me how to turn my green low-flow swamp bucket into a pristine oasis with water flowing like the salmon of capistrano.
 
All right dudes, I tested my water this morning. I’m providing all the detail I have (assuming you guys don’t need the part numbers since these test are all pretty common?) hoping for some help in terms of what I need to do to go from swamp green to crystal clear. Full disclosure, I haven’t put anything into it for 2 weeks because I didn't want to waste any more chemicals. Haven’t scrubbed since the weekend of the 19th. I used the TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD purchased from Amazon.

- Free Chlorine Test: The only part I didn't understand was when it says “For 1 drop = 0.2ppm, use 25mL. For 1 drop = .5ppm, use 10 mL.” I used a 10 mL sample. 10 drippers to turn it pink, then 3 drops to clear. Based on the math, that’s .15 ppm of FC.
- Combined Chlorine Test: 17 drops to turn pink, then 2 drops to turn clear. Based on the math, that’s .10 ppm of CC.
- pH Test: pH shows 7.7.
- CYA Test: 65ppm.
- TA Test: 14 drops needed to go from green to red. Based on the math, that’s 140 ppm of TA.
- Calcium Hardness Test: 65 drops needed to turn from red to blue. Based on the math, that’s 650 ppm of Calcium Hardness.

Looking at the SLAM procedure, it looks like with a CYA of 65 I need 26 of Shock FC. I was looking at the PoolMath table, but wanted to make sure my test results smell right (even though the pool is out of whack).

Curious on what you guys have to say regarding the test results. But it sounds like step 1 is getting my PH to between 7.2 & 7.5 (which means, based on PoolMath, adding between 10 and 30 ounces of acid (need to confirm which type of liquid acid I have). Then adding a boat load of chlorine (or bleach, recommendations?) until I get my FC up from .15ppm to 26ppm. Then repeating until I pass the OCLT and having a CC .5 or lower.

All the help is really appreciated. Thanks!
 
The FAS-DPD chlorine test should have a powder and a liquid. With the 10ml sample you add a heaping scoop of the powder (tiny blue spoon) which should turn the water pink. Then you add drops one at a time and swirl between drops until the water changes back to clear. You divide the number of drops in half. (10 drops would be an FC of 5)

Experts, am I missing something about how this test is done with the Taylor kit since I have the TF-100? I thought it was the same reagents and just different packaging...


*edit* to add pic of powder and liquid for FAS-DPD test. Your powder should look like the one on the left. My R-0871 bottle and the yellow lable R-0870 is what they look like with the TF-100 kit


 
First, since you did not follow our advice and order the TF-100, you need to order some more FAS-DPD reagents (R-0870 and R-0871). Since you are going to SLAM, you are going to run out because the K-2006 does not come with enough.

Second, you are not doing the FAS-DPD test correctly. You should use 10ml of water, add 1-2 scoops of the powder and the water should turn pink. If it does not, then your FC is 0. If it does, you add drops until it is clear. Then you add 5 drops of R-0003 to test for CC. If it stays clear, then your CC are < 0.5ppm. If it turns pink again, then add more R-0871 until it clears. Each drop of R-0871 is 0.5ppm

You should lower the pH and then start raising the FC up to the SLAM level you mentioned.
 
Ok, either you left out some steps when you posted or you are doing something wrong.

What jblizzle said above is correct...you start with your water sample 10ml, and put in the heaping scoop (or sometimes 2 scoops) of powder. If you have any chlorine the water will turn pink when you add the powder.

*edit* re reading your post, you said "10 drippers to turn to pink" I'm thinking that's a typo and you meant 10 dippers, (spoonfulls) of powder?

I'm thinking you have 0 chlorine and it's time to SLAM. Add the bleach you need to get to your slam level.

Again, what jblizzle said! lol Only in the future, you shouldn't ever need to add that much powder. You'll run out in a heartbeat!

Definitely order the refills (like jblizzle said!) You're going to run out because you have to test frequently during a slam. (why TF-100 is recommended. It costs more but it comes with more of what you need so you don't have to order refills as soon, but water under the bridge..)


*edit again*! BTW, if you did use 3 drops to go from pink to clear after adding your powder the result would be 1.5FC, not .15. With a 10ml sample every drop counts as .5, 3 drops = 1.5 fc, 6 drops = 3 fc, 8 drops = 4 fc and so on. Another reason you need refills, when you raise your FC up to 26 it will take 52 drops of R-0871 to turn the pink back to clear.
 
Thanks guys, that's right. The test says "2. Add 2 drippers R-0870. Swirl until desolved. If FC is present, sample will turn pink. If pink color disappears, add R-0870 until color turn pink," which is what I did. There was no pink initially, so I had to add 10 of those scoops of powder (R-0870) to get the pink, then I added 3 drops of R-0871 to get it to go back to clear. So adding 3 drops of the R-0871, times .5ppm, got me to an FC of .15 ppm. What did I miss?
 
Read my re edit above. LOL sorry I guess I was typing my edit while you were posting. I'll cut and paste it.

*edit again*! BTW, if you did use 3 drops to go from pink to clear after adding your powder the result would be 1.5FC, not .15. With a 10ml sample every drop counts as .5, 3 drops = 1.5 fc, 6 drops = 3 fc, 8 drops = 4 fc and so on. Another reason you need refills, when you raise your FC up to 26 it will take 52 drops of R-0871 to turn the pink back to clear.

I don't know why the taylor kit suggests adding so much powder. In the end all that matters is that you have to raise that FC level to 26. After you get your ph in line you can use pool math to figure out how much you need to add to get from 0 to 26. Then from there on out since you'll be maintaining your FC you won't need so much powder with each test. You'll see that water turn pink as soon as the powder hits it.
 

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