Is it possible to Install a Salt Water Generator on my setup?

[sunnyaz]

As I am going to be draining and refilling my pool this weekend, I am looking at possibly installing a SWG. However, the return from the filter where the cell would go is really short and I am not sure how I could install this. Would it be possible to plumb this so as to allow a gap for the cell? See the pics below.

Thanks!

 

[JasonLion]

It is certainly possible, though you are going to need to get a little creative about it. Essentially, you need to runs some pipe off to the side or up in the air and back again and install the SWG in one of those runs, instead of in-line in any of your existing pipe runs.

 

[sunnyaz]

Do you think something like this would work? Would this impede the flow of water at all?

 

[jblizzle]

You could install a loop below the main return valve ... that would likely be the easiest place to squeeze it in.

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The cell and flow switches are bigger than your drawing ... I think below the valve would be better because you do not have enough pipe left where you drew it to put 2 fittings.

 

[sunnyaz]

When you say below the main return valve, could you explain where the cell would go. I can't quite visualize it. Thanks!

 

[jblizzle]

Put a 90 just below the valve, then some pipe and the SWG out horizontally. Then 2 90s to head back the same way and another 90 to tie back into the pipe going into the ground.

It will kind of be in the way for your stepping stones, but that is the easiest. Actually, you might be able to put that loop back toward the filter next to the pump so it would not be in the way.

 

[sunnyaz]

Forgive my ignorance...where am I looking at for the main return valve?

 

[Isaac-1]

disregard

Ike

 

[jblizzle]

The return plumbing comes out of the top port on the filter and enters a Tee ... I assume the larger pipe on the right is your main return with the larger valve I was talking about. The smaller pipe, I assume, is for a water feature or something that is rarely used.

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Given your setup I would consider installing the SWG between the pump and the filter, you seem to have a lot better access there and less lost fittings to cut out.

Ike

That would directly ignore the warnings in the installation manual and would likely result in a build-up of explosive hydrogen gas in the filter ... not recommended.

 

[Isaac-1]

Another thought may be to turn the filter 90 degrees, but the problem is there is not much stub left there for splicing

Ike

p.s. Jason thanks for the comment, there I found that just after after posting and was in the middle of editing when you posted your updated reply

 

[sunnyaz]

Thank you so much for clarifying. So you would install it under the red knob on the right return, correct? I can see that, thanks again. The smaller return is for a spray that is on the edge of the pool that we turn on sometimes to break the surface tension and helps aerate the pool to cool it off. Not sure what else it is for...

Like this, going into the gray return line

http://imgur.com/6CdwBMh

Quick question if you don't mind. There is some damage to the ledge of the pool where there is cool deck. Is it okay to repair this and get some materials in the pool when filled, or should I do it when drained? Since it will be hot, I am going to try and drain and fill quickly, so I was hoping to do it once filled again. Thoughts?

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Ike,
I get what you say when you say to turn the filter 90 and can see lengthening the pipes which should allow room for the cell...What do you mean that there is not much stub left for splicing?

 

[jblizzle]

Go back and look and look at how I edited your posts to show pictures, so I do not have to keep doing it.

Yes that I how I was suggesting, or coming out to the front if there is not enough room by the pump. They did my kool deck while the pool was full ... IIRC they taped plastic on the tile.

Ike, was saying you only have a little bit of pipe coming out of your backwash valve to attach fittings to ... actually even worse is the lack of any pipe going into that Tee. So you would likely need to replace the Tee and the 90s and the valves if you try to turn the filter.

 

[sargent]

Or go vertical between the filter and the return piping. Something like in this thread.

 

[jblizzle]

Or go vertical between the filter and the return piping. Something like in this thread.

There is not enough room or exposed pipe.

 

[sunnyaz]

Jason,
I was trying to figure out how to post the pics like that, thank you for pointing this out.

So would this not work?

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I just want to say how awesome you guys are! Thank you so much.

 

[jblizzle]

Well, the problem is the amount of exposed pipe between the union and the backwash valve. If you cut it right in the middle, I am not sure there is enough pipe on both sides left to attach new fittings. Measure the length of that pipe and then measure the required pipe inside the fittings.

It looks like it might be barely enough pipe. If not, then you would have to replace the Tee and the 90s going down ... and maybe the valves as well.

On the bottom there would be enough pipe sticking out of the backwash valve (I think) and then you could cut that 90 off and have enough pipe to attach a coupler and more pipe to extend it around the filter.

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Even if there is enough pipe on the top, you still may have to get creative to have enough room to put the SWG and the flow switch (might still need to loop it up or something.

 

[Isaac-1]

Like Jason said there is not much pipe between the T and the backwash push pull valve to insert a splicing collar, which means you will like need to sacrifice one or the other, if the T goes so go all the other fittings and valves around them again due to lack of space for a splice. The easiest (but not necessarily cheapest) solution may be to sacrifice the push pull backwash valve, and replace it after you turn the filter 90 degrees to make room for the SWG this would probably cost around an extra $100)

 

[sunnyaz]

My only concern with installing it below the return valve is that if I ever need to replace line there, is it going to cause an issue because of how close it is to the ground?

 

[jblizzle]

I think I would sacrifice the Tee and 90s and valves (cut both pipes below the valves). You should be able to save the backwash valve. And then rotate the filter and plumb it in to a new pool 3-way valve to use to select the main returns or divert some to the sprayers.

Hard to visualize the best routing without all the parts sitting in front of me though. You do not even have a SWG yet and they all mount differently. I am used to the Hayward that require longer straight runs, but some fit more vertical.

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Or even not rotate the filter, turn straight up out of the filter and put your SWG in there somewhere and then come straight down into a new 3-way valve.

 

[sunnyaz]

Jason, for the first option I am assuming I will have to install the flow switch like #3. Can the flow switch go before the cell set up like #3?

Is this somewhat what you are talking about when saying you would replace the tee and valves

Hayward Aqua Rite 40k is what I am looking at.

If I am going to replace both of the main return valves, is there something better I should be looking for?