This will be my first year following the BBB method entirely. Trial was end of last year as I wasn't willing to empty my pool to the level it was needed in order to get my CYA down. I had a professional close my pool really late. It was crystal clear when we closed and he threw in a 3 month algaecide. I just pulled back the cover and it is very green (already??). We just had our first over 40 degree night temp. I'd like to open the pool myself this year so my question (after reading the sticky on opening) goes as follows: I assume I should apply a 3 month algaecide again and raise chlorine for good shock to get started? When sucking out what is on the bottom (I have a tight mesh cover but worms and leaves/dirt always make it in), I should be vacuuming to waste, I assume? Is anyone aware of a tape that provides traction for safety that can be under water all season (my stepmom broke her arm last year slipping on my steps)? I drained 1/4 of my pool to close last year (which is what I needed to get my CYA down according to calculations) but it filled back up over winter. Do I start by shocking and algaecide first, then testing for CYA, then removing water as necessary or some other sequence of events? Thanks for the help--this site has been a godsend over the last 3 years. . .
About to open in central Illinois
- Thread starter birkesl
- Start date
First, forget about algaecide ... especially after you already have algae. Chlorine works better and is cheaper.
You want to scoop out everything you can, maybe vac to waste a bit. Then you need to test all the test levels and specifically know the CYA level (do you have one of the Recommended Test Kits?) so that you know the required FC level. Then you need to follow the SLAM Process exactly until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
You want to scoop out everything you can, maybe vac to waste a bit. Then you need to test all the test levels and specifically know the CYA level (do you have one of the Recommended Test Kits?) so that you know the required FC level. Then you need to follow the SLAM Process exactly until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
It's green already because the "professional" likely didn't put in enough chlorine before the close. I didn't use any algaecide for the last two winters, and opened up to clear water both springs.
Blizzle has you covered on the rest.
Blizzle has you covered on the rest.
I think its green because either it was closed too early (water still above 50) or opened too late (again water above 50).
I closed in November, water was low 50's and opened a couple weeks ago (water was 42). I added nothing when closing, when I opened it was crystal clear, cold but clear.
I think you should open earlier IMO. You have a mesh cover, that lets sunlight through which will warm the water and also will facilitate algae. Curious what your water temp is?
Update: my pool is mostly clear now. We started last week with opening it and getting chlorine levels up with liquid chlorine. Here are my levels:
PH=7.2
TA=100
CYA=100 (based on the kit everyone here suggests although the fast read sticks say 30-50)
FC=0
Any suggestions on the CYA and chlorine? SLAM process?
PH=7.2
TA=100
CYA=100 (based on the kit everyone here suggests although the fast read sticks say 30-50)
FC=0
Any suggestions on the CYA and chlorine? SLAM process?
Replace at least half the water to get the CYA reasonable. Then start the SLAM process.
I am on well water so my iron and hardness is very high in our area. Will that be a concern and/or will that ruin all the good I will be doing by lowering the CYA? Another option is to truck in water, but with an obvious cost and uncertainty on water quality. . . Thoughts/opinions?? I have plenty of time before we can swim given current weather patterns. . . .
Well, it is not good to add iron to your pool, but it is also not good to have such high CYA.
With the iron you can use a sequestrant to avoid staining. With the high CYA, you will have to maintain MUCH high FC levels to avoid algae.
You never answered the question: What test kit are you using? Are you sure the CYA is not even higher?
With the iron you can use a sequestrant to avoid staining. With the high CYA, you will have to maintain MUCH high FC levels to avoid algae.
You never answered the question: What test kit are you using? Are you sure the CYA is not even higher?
OK, some people just say 100 when the water stops well below the 100 line which could be significantly higher.
So you have 3 choices, none ideal:
1. Try to clear and keep clear a pool with high CYA
2. Replace with well water and potentially get metal staining if you do not maintain adequate sequestrants
3. Have water trucked in that hopefully is lower in metal
So you have 3 choices, none ideal:
1. Try to clear and keep clear a pool with high CYA
2. Replace with well water and potentially get metal staining if you do not maintain adequate sequestrants
3. Have water trucked in that hopefully is lower in metal
A properly maintained pool isn't slick as ice. If you can get your numbers dialed in and study Pool School and how to properly maintain your pool water, there should be no reason you need to tape the steps for traction.
I removed approximately 50% of my pool water and replaced with well water (unfortunately). My new numbers are as follows:
CYA=50
TA=270
PH=7.6
CH=260
TC and FC were at 0 but I've since begun the SLAM process, as recommended and I'm working to maintain FC at 20 during the process. Pool is light green with some metal staining. I also added some metal remover and have been filtering out/vacuuming to waste a few times before beginning SLAM. I also plan to add vitamin c to remove the staining from the vinyl liner. Pool is slowly clearing. Should I be concerned about the high CH and TA amounts? What is the best way to bring them down if so?
CYA=50
TA=270
PH=7.6
CH=260
TC and FC were at 0 but I've since begun the SLAM process, as recommended and I'm working to maintain FC at 20 during the process. Pool is light green with some metal staining. I also added some metal remover and have been filtering out/vacuuming to waste a few times before beginning SLAM. I also plan to add vitamin c to remove the staining from the vinyl liner. Pool is slowly clearing. Should I be concerned about the high CH and TA amounts? What is the best way to bring them down if so?
No, don't worry about either. Just monitor your PH, keep it below 7.8. Every time it hits 7.8, use Muratic Acid to lower it to 7.2. Use PoolMath to calculate how much acid that is. Eventually the TA level will come down. Don't worry about the CH, it's fine.
You're doing great!
You're doing great!
Where is the best place to get muratic acid? I'm keeping my fc between 4 and 8 as it suggested on the chart which means I'm having to add about 1 jug of liquid chlorine each day. Does that make sense? 80 degree average days here now.
