I was afraid of coming home to a green pool-- well , it wasn't green, but yellow from all the pine pollen floating on the top and some leaves on the bottom. Sometime during the week I was gone, the filter pump and maybe the cleaner boost pump stopped working with the resulting no flow lights on the SWCG box. So, I tried to start the filter pump got a clunk sound and nothing else--same with the boost pump that tried to start the filter pump. I removed power from from the timer and went back out to the timer after resetting the CB. This time I got a hummmm from both the filter and boost pump. My skimmers were both full of leaves sucked down to the bottom of the baskets. I'm assuming this may be part of the problem, but the main drain was not cluttered with any debris. So, I would think the pumps were getting sufficient water; but I've thought wrong before. Any suggestions/ comments are going to be appreciated!
Finally got my SWG running, Now came home from to a pump or two problem.
- Thread starter timerguy
- Start date
Try rotating the pump shaft by hand and see if it moves freely or not. Make sure the power is off when trying this. If it doesn't turn freely, you have greatly narrowed down the problem.
Notice my changed Signature. I have no idea how to get to the pump shaft. The pump motor is enclosed at the end of the motor. The hummmm I hear when turning on the boost pump is actually the filter pump trying to run
Got the back cover off and the shaft turned freely. It's pretty tight in there so I used a screw driver, but it definitely wasn't frozen. I found a replacement motor for $208 and another $28 for the seal kit. Guess I should go ahead and get it.
I can think of quite a few things yet to check if you are still in a DIY mood. If you haven't already, check that the pump is getting the correct voltage when turned on. Since both pumps are misbehaving at the same time there is some chance it is a problem with the circuit breaker. This doesn't really fit with your story, but it seems like the most likely place to look given the shaft isn't blocked from turning, and it is fairly easy to check. Other possibilities, less likely, include the starter switch and start capacitor, either of which could cause humming without motion.
I'm not sure the boost pump is acting up. It won't run without the filter pump running. With my timer, when I push the on button for the boost pump, it will automatically start the filter pump which must run for 1 minute before the boost pump will actually run. CB is fine. When energized, the swg control panel will turn on, but no flow indicator lights up. The timer which controls all three circuits is on. The pump and SWG have run all along at 240V. I'll attach a pic in a few minutes once I have it sized to post.
View attachment 28235
View attachment 28235
I'm hoping it's just a bad capacitor. Is there any way to test it with a multimeter to find out for sure? What's the starter switch? Well, I think, I hope I've answered my own question about how to test it. Indications are, I've got a bad capacitor. Now to find one locally.
you can test the capacitor with a volt meter.
here is a youtube on how to do it and how to tell if its bad or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRt9WYK1wdQ
here is a youtube on how to do it and how to tell if its bad or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRt9WYK1wdQ
Already did that, but thanks Dave! Picked up a capacitor at a local electrical supply store this morning. I had called the pool maintenance/ repair shop Saturday afternoon. And called them again this morning to see if they had any parts (capacitors) in stock. They told me they don't replace capacitors, but the whole pump!!! I'm sure glad they hadn't called me back Sat--Their first hour was $125 not to mention parts-- Pump or Motor$$$$$$$. So, I picked up the capacitor for $17 and will install it this afternoon if it stops raining. I sure hope it fixes my problem. If not, I found a Motor and seal kit for $240 and free shipping. Have already watched the YouTube video on how to do the job if necessary.
Replaced capacitor this morning. Pump is back to running again. WHEW!!! Thanks everyone for your help!!
Well, have a pump problem again. I'm hoping its the capacitor again. I'll check it first thing in the morning. It was too warm to mess with earlier. So I need to do the shaft turn test before the timer is set to start. Got my multimeter all set to go out.
Just got back inside from testing the pump. The impeller turns freely and the capacitor does what a good one should: up then immediately down. Could it be just an overheat sensor that shut down? Should I put it back together again and turn it on? What else could be wrong?
So it ran ok for 5 months after replacing the start capacitor the first time? Has anything about your set up changed since then?
Nope. Been running great since. I went out yesterday afternoon just before the pump was set to shut down for the day and the pump wasn't running. The boost pump would since there was power to the main pump, and the swg was still on with a no flow light.
I put it all together just to see if it would pump--nope. Felt a vibration on the motor housing but no flow.
So, I'm replacing the whole pump-- the seal plate had cracks at a couple of the mount nut holes, making just replacing the motor a bad option, With a Pentair IntelliFLo VS Which brings up a whole new set of questions.
1. I want to use my Intermatic p-1353 timer to supply the power to the new pump. Mainly because I want to make sure my freeze sensor (part of the p-1353) to work with the new pump during the months we can have freezing conditions here (Oct through March). And because I want the P-1353 to control the boost pump for my Polaris to make sure the new pump is running for the three hours I run my polaris daily 365 days per year. I'm assuming I can set schedules for those things to happen automatically. What rpm would I need for both of those? Since I have a SWG that will generate Chlorine when the water temp is over 55 degrees, the pool repair guy who I was going to have replace the pump motor suggests the VS will save me $$$$ during the the swim season. And sugggested I run it 24/7 for maximum efficiency. I could run my SWG @ 40% or whatever is needed to maintain my desired FC level instead of what I had been running at 80% for 12 hrs with my single speed pump. I have no idea on what the rpm settings would be for Cleaner/SWG usage or Backwashing/waste draining/chem additions (which would probably be done manually anyhow?) Does any of that make sense? The users manual for the VS doesn't provide much info for what the setting should be for various scenarios. That's why I'm asking for help here.
1. I want to use my Intermatic p-1353 timer to supply the power to the new pump. Mainly because I want to make sure my freeze sensor (part of the p-1353) to work with the new pump during the months we can have freezing conditions here (Oct through March). And because I want the P-1353 to control the boost pump for my Polaris to make sure the new pump is running for the three hours I run my polaris daily 365 days per year. I'm assuming I can set schedules for those things to happen automatically. What rpm would I need for both of those? Since I have a SWG that will generate Chlorine when the water temp is over 55 degrees, the pool repair guy who I was going to have replace the pump motor suggests the VS will save me $$$$ during the the swim season. And sugggested I run it 24/7 for maximum efficiency. I could run my SWG @ 40% or whatever is needed to maintain my desired FC level instead of what I had been running at 80% for 12 hrs with my single speed pump. I have no idea on what the rpm settings would be for Cleaner/SWG usage or Backwashing/waste draining/chem additions (which would probably be done manually anyhow?) Does any of that make sense? The users manual for the VS doesn't provide much info for what the setting should be for various scenarios. That's why I'm asking for help here.
I would think for just the freeze protection just for circulation purposes, I could set the schedule for that at the minimum RPM?
Similar threads
