TF-100 vs Taylor K-2006

[astrolite]

Trying to decide which kit to get. My concerns are as follows:

1. I have trouble color matching both the OTO and PH in a standard drop type test kit. The taylor appears, from the pictures, to have a fairly nice PH test block, I'm concerned the TF-100 may be the standard test block found in most drop type kits and difficult for me to read. I have seen no picture of this one.
2. From what I've read, the TF-100 seems to have a better CYA test, bigger vial, easier to read.

I am aware that the TF-100 has more reagents to do more tests and cost difference really isn't a factor. Anyone with any advice, especially those with both kits, would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JohnT]

I don't know that the K2006 pH test block would be easier to read than the one in the TF-100. The TF-100 has the standard Taylor K-1000 kit included for OTO and pH testing, so I'd assume it's the comparator you are referring to.

It seems that some people do have a problem distinguishing the colors. I have found that an extra drop or two of reagent can make the pH test easier to read, but you can't do that on the OTO test.

 

[tnthudson]

I'm sure Duraleigh and JasonLion can fill you in, but the TF-100 has a Taylor pH and CL 'minikit', then it has its own vials and reagents for the other tests...so the pH test is actually a Taylor test (not sure if its the one you're looking for, though, I'm not at home with the kit) and the 'simple' (total) CL test is in the same (2-vial) piece.
For the FC and CC test, you have a separate, easy large vial test. And from a 1st-time test kit owner, I found the TF100 easy to use.

 

[duraleigh]

Astrolite,

The comparator in the K-1000 (that's the same one as the TF-100) and the comparator in the K-2006 use the same reagents so I suspect you will find marginal, if any, difference in your ability to read them.

For what it's worth, I chose that comparator because it has a broader pH range of 6.8 - 8.2 then the K-2006 (7.0 - 8.0)

My reasoning was that a lot of noobs have problematic pool conditions and that wider range may help them as they are more likely to be towards the extremes.

Sizewise, the K-2006 comparator is a little bigger, I think, so that may help interpreting the colors.....I don't know.

 

[chem geek]

This post compares the contents of the two kits. As stated above, the tftestkits.com TF100 uses a smaller pH comparator with a broader range that looks like this compared to the Taylor K-2006 comparator that looks like this.

 

[JasonLion]

The PH comparator in the K-2006 uses a larger tube with slightly larger color reference patches. Even though the PH test reagent is different, it uses exactly the same chemistry and the colors that the sample turns are the same. The pH values for which color reference patches are provided are slightly different.

I consider the differences very minor. If you have trouble with one you will most likely have trouble with the other. For a few people the larger tube and color reference patches might help just a little.

People with some kinds of color blindness will always have trouble matching the colors. Everyone else will get much better at it with practice, though it might take a while.

 

[crabboy]

The Pentair kit that my PB gave me has a pH test that I find a bit easier to read. There is a color change between 7.6 and 7.2 that goes from a purple to an orange. So, I'll do the ph test as normal and then do the acid demand test to bring the color from purple to an orange and then by the number of drops, I'll know how much acid to add. Really don't need to know where I've been, just how to get where I need to be.

I use the TF kit for everything but the pH.

 

[Guest]

The Pentair kit that my PB gave me has a pH test that I find a bit easier to read. There is a color change between 7.6 and 7.2 that goes from a purple to an orange. So, I'll do the ph test as normal and then do the acid demand test to bring the color from purple to an orange and then by the number of drops, I'll know how much acid to add. Really don't need to know where I've been, just how to get where I need to be.

I use the TF kit for everything but the pH.

All these pH test kits use the SAME reagent, Phenol Red, Phenol red changes different colors at different pH. at 6.8 or below it is yellow, at 7.0 to about 7.4 it's in the oranges, at 7.5-7.7 it's red, and at 7.8 it starts getting a pink-red, and finallly gets purple at a pH of 8 and above. The main difference between pH tests is the concentration of the indicator. Cheap testkits use a dilute solution so the colors are very washed out. Good quality kits like Taylor (and it doesn't matter whether it's the small comparator or the big one---the color chips are the same!) use a more concentrated indicator, include the chlorine neutralizer, and have accurate color blocks that actually match the colors that appear. Cheap test kits don't. I have both the 1000 series and 2000 series comparators and I can tell you that there is NO difference in the color of the tests at a given pH!
Once you get to know the colors you don't even need the indicator block.

 

[JohnT]

Once you get to know the colors you don't even need the indicator block.

Indeed. I can usually tell what my pH is +/-0.2 when the first drop of reagent hits the water sample.

 

[astrolite]

Thanks to all that have replied. This forum is great! I have had an in ground pool for 20 years and am just now learning pool chemistry! And I wondered why I got ear aches

Just looking at the pictures of the two comparitors I can tell you my ph is 7.2. Both seem to be much better than the cheapo one I'm using now.

But what about the cya test, is the TF-100 much easier to read due to the larger vial size?

 

[Guest]

But what about the cya test, is the TF-100 much easier to read due to the larger vial size?

A bit.

 

[tnthudson]

Duraleigh's instructions on the CYA test say that it can be tricky at first, since you are dropping solution into a vial that you are holding at waist level, and adding until you can no longer see the black dot at the bottom of the vial (the water gets cloudier as you add drops to the vial, then you read the level on the side of the vial for your result).
Sounded strange to me at first (my wife calls me a mad scientist when I have all this stuff out by the pool 8) ), but it's easy...assuming I'm doing it right, I've gotten my CYA to steadily climb up to acceptable range after my conversion to BBB, and finally hit my target this weekend. So I'd say it's quite user-friendly.