Auto pilot Nano- low volts/high amps

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That doesn't sound good. One thing that can cause that is a short, most likely inside the cell, though it could also be in the cell cable, or one of the connectors. I recommend doing a close visual inspection of the cell watching for any debris (especially metallic debris) and also that the spacing between the plates is uniform. If one of the plates is bent so it touches, or almost touches, another plate it could cause this problem. Likewise, a piece of metal stuck between two, or more, plates could cause this.
 
Thank you for your quick response.

Pool looks fine because I am shocking once a week.

Today :

Total Chlorine 1.0
Free " 1.0
Combined 0.0
PH 7.5
TA 100
CYA 100
Salt 3200

I have 2 pools; inground vinyl up north for 26 years and gunite here in FL for 5 years; and try to maintain consistent balance. Only the FL pool has a SWG.

I will shift the cell cable to see if anything changes.

Thanks for the suggestion
 
The reason I asked is that often people think the SWG is not working because they measure no FC, but in reality there is something in the water consuming it faster than the SWG can make it. While this may not be true in your case due to the SWG issues you presented, you test results and methods are far from what we would recommend.

For example, the minimum required FC for a CYA of 100ppm with a SWG would likely be > 5ppm to prevent algae from starting ... see the FC/CYA Chart. We also do not believe in weekly "shocking". We believe in maintaining adequate FC and then there is no need for temporary boosts of FC. If there is a problem, then we recommend the SLAM Process.

So, your SWG may be having issues, but at this point I would not be surprised that you also have stuff growing in the water that is also consuming any chlorine you add. To prevent this, we would suggest using liquid chlorine to maintain adequate FC until your SWG problem is resolved.

How do you "shock"? IF you are using trichlor or dichlor, that would explain why your CYA level is now much too high.
 
To properly test the unit please follow the instructions below. Going in to a unit that is currently running and just running a quick test sometimes will not provide us with accurate readings as far as the amps/volts are concerned.

1 - Turn the power off to the Pool Pilot (if it is on) and allow the unit to remain off for about 60 seconds.
2 -Turn the power to the Pool Pilot back on. If the unit is not already in "boost" mode press the "boost" button as soon as possible once the unit is powered. This should activate boost mode. Within 30-60 seconds of boost mode being activated press "menu" followed by pressing "select". This will place you in to the test menu.
3 - While in the test menu you will be able to scroll through the different test readings with the up/down arrows on your controller. Please make note of the water temperature (i.e. 80F), salt level (i.e. 3000 ppm), voltage (i.e. 28v) and amps (i.e. 3.2a).
4 - Please reply back with your test results.
 
Thank you all.

Thanks for the tip on CYA and I'm using dichlor. I will dilute the pool. Is Calcium Hypochlorite acceptable? I have this issue frequently up north using stabilized pucks. Any suggestions other than a SWG?

Boost indicates 2v, 9.6a, 84F, 3200ppm

Shifted cell cable along cell pins and voila ; 15v, 5.2a , but four hours later back to 3v, 6.9a

Seems the cable may be shorted as Jason suspected. Will order a replacement.

Thanks and stay tuned .
 
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