Testing Fill water before filling new pool for first time

Jump to latest Follow Reply
C

coreyadam

0
Jan 28, 2014
130
Fredericton, NB, Canada
Hi Guys...I'm super excited to be getting closer to my dream of my first pool!! My pool kit itself is on it's way and I received my TF-100 test kit yesterday. My build will start on May 12 as long as the weather cooperates! (please keep your fingers crossed for me!!) I will be filling my pool with the city water from where I live. I would like to do the initial tests on the water so I know what I will need for chemicals when the time comes. Can someone recommend what tests I should do to start with, to give me an idea of what I will need to add when I first fill the pool. All my info is in my signature (let me know if there is anything missing)...and, as it states, I'm using SWG...
Thanks in advance for the help, as usual!
 
It's a good idea to perform all the tests on your fill water (except CYA...you won't have any).

It'll familiarize you with the tests (just follow the instruction card in the kit) and then post your results up here and we'll discuss them with you.

It's actually kinda' fun.
 
Test the pH, TA, and CH ... that is all that matters from the tap water. CYA will be zero and any chlorine in the water will go away quickly.

When you fill the pool, you will need to add CYA and chlorine and salt. That is all you currently know. CH does not matter for a vinyl pool. You may need to adjust the pH or TA based on your test results.
 
  • Like
Reactions: It's No Longer A Chore
duraleigh said:
It's a good idea to perform all the tests on your fill water (except CYA...you won't have any).

It'll familiarize you with the tests (just follow the instruction card in the kit) and then post your results up here and we'll discuss them with you.

It's actually kinda' fun.
Click to expand...

Sounds good....I was curious to do them all anyway... I'll keep you posted.

- - - Updated - - -

jblizzle said:
Test the pH, TA, and CH ... that is all that matters from the tap water. CYA will be zero and any chlorine in the water will go away quickly.

When you fill the pool, you will need to add CYA and chlorine and salt. That is all you currently know. CH does not matter for a vinyl pool. You may need to adjust the pH or TA based on your test results.
Click to expand...

Great...thanks! I'll post my results as soon as I get a chance...
 
Testing fill water is a good way to see if your going to fight high TA or CH. Out of the TF-100 kit I would test TA and CH to start with. Hope for a lower reading on both. You can also test pH just to get an handle on doing the test and matching the color. CYA is not in city drinking water so don't waste the test. You can do a FAS-DPD test to practice. You my get a high CC depending on what the city chlorinates with. The main two like I said would be TA and CH. Have fun and ask questions. That's what the forum is here for.
 
Ok...so here is my initial test results from the tap water that will be filling my pool...
PH = 8 FC = 1ppm CC = 0.5ppm (TC = 1.5ppm) CH =125ppm TA = 100
So, based on this, what, if anything, am I going to need to do next month when I fill my pool for the first time? (Other than salt, of course...and CYA). Is there a calculator for the amount of salt and CYA I will need? (I thought I had seen one previously, but forgot where...)
 
Smykowski said:
A gallon of muriatic acid and a couple bottles of bleach to start.

Find a supplier for granular CYA. Online or in store, it doesn't matter, just look at the ingredients and make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid. You'll need enough to bring it up to 30 or 40.
Click to expand...

Thanks.... so the muriatic acid will bring my PH down? (sorry for my ignorance!). Do I need any special kind of bleach?... And the CYA...is that something that will continue to evaporate with the water, so I'll need to keep adding it throughout the summer?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I suggest you get a cup full of water and let it sit out overnight then re-test pH. Water arrives under pressure and thus contains a lot of gases, including CO2, that affect the pH. Letting the water sit overnight will approximate what the pool will see after the fill date.
 
Note that the cyanuric acid will lower the pH some, so you might want to wait to see where that takes your pH before adding acid. Although, you will probably want to get the TA down to about 60, so you will probably need the muriatic acid as the ph naturally goes back up.

The bleach should say "Regular" and "Sodium hypochlorite.....8.25%". It might say "concentrated" or "For regular and HE machines". But don't get it if it only says "For HE machines". Don't get scented, outdoor, splashless or other special types of bleach. Don't get any bleach that does not show the percentage of sodium hypochlorite.

Cyanuric acid and salt are only lost due to water loss other than evaporation.
 
JamesW said:
Note that the cyanuric acid will lower the pH some, so you might want to wait to see where that takes your pH before adding acid. Although, you will probably want to get the TA down to about 60, so you will probably need the muriatic acid as the ph naturally goes back up.

The bleach should say "Regular" and "Sodium hypochlorite.....8.25%". It might say "concentrated" or "For regular and HE machines". But don't get it if it only says "For HE machines". Don't get scented, outdoor, splashless or other special types of bleach. Don't get any bleach that does not show the percentage of sodium hypochlorite.
Cyanuric acid and salt are only lost due to water loss other than evaporation.
Click to expand...


Thank you all for the great info! I'll take it all into account...and do alot more reading in the next 5 weeks while I'm waiting. Keep the advice coming!
 
Reading over your past post, this is what your fill water is right. If it is then I would not sweat it. Once the pool is full, run a test and see what it is. Your TA is 100. You will use muriatic acid to bring the ph down. It will also bring down the TA. When you get the ph managed the TA should be happy. My TA likes to live at 70. My father in laws likes to live at 90. Each pool has it's own personality.

Sent from my VS870 4G using Tapatalk
 
jcowart said:
Reading over your past post, this is what your fill water is right. If it is then I would not sweat it. Once the pool is full, run a test and see what it is. Your TA is 100. You will use muriatic acid to bring the ph down. It will also bring down the TA. When you get the ph managed the TA should be happy. My TA likes to live at 70. My father in laws likes to live at 90. Each pool has it's own personality.

Sent from my VS870 4G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I'm happy to see that it shouldn't take too much to get my water where it needs to be. Now if the next 5 weeks can just disappear so I can actually start the build!!!!!
 
Good luck on the build. When you start the build. Start a new topic with picture's. ...we like pictures. Until then. Read and understand pool school. TFPC is very different than what the pool stores push. Their priority is to sell products. Ours is education and learning what YOUR pool need and only add chemicals that it needs right then. Bookmark pool math. It will become your best friend.

Sent from my VS870 4G using Tapatalk
 
jcowart said:
Good luck on the build. When you start the build. Start a new topic with picture's. ...we like pictures. Until then. Read and understand pool school. TFPC is very different than what the pool stores push. Their priority is to sell products. Ours is education and learning what YOUR pool need and only add chemicals that it needs right then. Bookmark pool math. It will become your best friend.

Sent from my VS870 4G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I will definitely do that...I want to understand as much as possible!...thanks
 
Smykowski said:
A gallon of muriatic acid and a couple bottles of bleach to start.

Find a supplier for granular CYA. Online or in store, it doesn't matter, just look at the ingredients and make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid. You'll need enough to bring it up to 30 or 40.
Click to expand...

Quick question on this. In my reading (and on the Chlorine/CYA charts), it says that for a SWG, my CYA level should be around 70 with the FC minimum at 3 with the target of 5. Should I only be going to 30-40 CYA to start with or was that number based on a non SWG pool?
Also, I realize these charts are simply a guideline, and every situation may be a bit different. My pool will get alot of direct sunlight...10-12 hours a day, but no organic matter such as leaves. I've learned that direct sunlight is one of the major causes of lowering my FC level. So my question is, how do I deal with this? Will I simply run my SWG more often or at higer rate?...or will I need to actually keep my FC level higher than the recommended level?
As always, this site is extremely informative. I've been reading all morning, and learning alot!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply