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Thread: Help with algae

  1. Back To Top    #1

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    Help with algae

    I recently purchased a home with a pool and I must admit I am a little overwhelmed right now. I knew nothing about pools coming into this and it is slowly turning into a money pit. I have already had to replace filter elements, a pump seal, then all of the chemicals.

    The water was very cloudywhen I bought it...turned out it was bad filter elelments letting DE pass. I finally got that problem resolved, but now I have a problem with algea growing on the walls. I shock and brush and within a few days it's back! I have never been able to get the water to really sparkle.

    I took a sample to the pool store this morning and here are the readinsgs.

    Temp - 90
    Saturation idx - 0.4
    TDS - 750
    CYA - 63
    TC - 0.5
    FC - 0
    pH - 7.7
    TA - 106
    Adjusted TA - 87
    Total Hardness - 314

    I was told to add 4 scoops of bicarb and wait 2 hours. Add 1 1/2 scoops aof acid, then wait another hour and add 3 lbs of shock. She said I needed to get TC and FC balanced out and then add an algeacide. She said that algeacide was the only thing that would get rid of mustard algea. After reading this forum, I am to believe that chlorine is all that is needed to get rid of it. Any help is appreciated.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  2. Back To Top    #2

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    Re: Help with algea

    You need to get your pool to shock value and keep it there. Use the pool calculator in the links on the home page to find out what your shock level should be. You must keep your pool at this level until it holds overnight (dropping less than 1 ppm).

    All the while brush and vaccuum as much as you can. It took me over three weeks to turn my pool from swamp sludgy water to crystal blue. It was a lot of bleach - more than I ever imagined.

    Keep at it and be diligent and it will turn.
    16 X 34 21,000 IG Vinyl Liner
    1 1/2 Hayward SuperPump
    New Sand Filter (had cartridge - hated them)

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: Help with algea

    With CYA that high, you better make sure that shock doesn't have any stabilizers added! Granulated shock often does. Either bleach, (unscented and without any laundry additives) or liquid chlorine is better. (The only difference between plain bleach and the liquid chlorine they sell at the pool store is the strength.) The pool calculator you can get to from this forum (someone will be along soon who has the link) will tell you how much you need.

    And yes, you can get rid of algae using chlorine alone. If you do decide to use an algecide, though, stay away from copper. Polyquat is the best.

    I'm not sure if you want to get your PH down before shocking or not. I'm new myself, so I'm just getting the hang of this too.
    Above ground soft side Omega pool
    20 feet diameter, 4 feet deep
    Hayward sand filter
    Hayward 1 HP Matrix pump
    Hayward Aquabug Automatic Pool Cleaner

  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: Help with algea

    Quote Originally Posted by branchop
    You need to get your pool to shock value and keep it there. Use the pool calculator in the links on the home page to find out what your shock level should be. You must keep your pool at this level until it holds overnight (dropping less than 1 ppm).

    All the while brush and vaccuum as much as you can. It took me over three weeks to turn my pool from swamp sludgy water to crystal blue. It was a lot of bleach - more than I ever imagined.

    Keep at it and be diligent and it will turn.
    Forgive my ignorance, but how do I amintain shock level? Do I simply add more shock every day?
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Help with algea

    I'm sorry- shock is simply (in BBB terms) - bleach. Just a higher concentration than normal. My pool per the pool calculator should normally be about 4-7 ppm. However at the bottom of the calculator it will show you what the shock levels should be. (mine is around 16)

    At the top of the calculator put what you want your FC to be (for shock I would put 16 - for normal I would put 6) and it will tell you how much bleach to add!
    16 X 34 21,000 IG Vinyl Liner
    1 1/2 Hayward SuperPump
    New Sand Filter (had cartridge - hated them)

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algea

    Hi h2o,

    You can read about getting rid of the algae here: category/pool-school/defeating_algae

    Some time reading in Pool School will help. Link is at the top of each page in the sub-heading.

    A link to Jason's Pool Calculator is on the home page, left side, links section. Also a link in my sig. You can save a copy to your computer.

    Welcome to the forum
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  7. Back To Top    #7
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algea

    Quote Originally Posted by h2o
    I recently purchased a home with a pool and I must admit I am a little overwhelmed right now. I knew nothing about pools coming into this and it is slowly turning into a money pit. I have already had to replace filter elements, a pump seal, then all of the chemicals.

    The water was very cloudywhen I bought it...turned out it was bad filter elelments letting DE pass. I finally got that problem resolved, but now I have a problem with algea growing on the walls. I shock and brush and within a few days it's back! I have never been able to get the water to really sparkle.

    I took a sample to the pool store this morning and here are the readinsgs.

    Temp - 90
    Saturation idx - 0.4
    TDS - 750
    CYA - 63
    TC - 0.5
    FC - 0
    pH - 7.7
    TA - 106
    Adjusted TA - 87
    Total Hardness - 314

    I was told to add 4 scoops of bicarb and wait 2 hours. Add 1 1/2 scoops aof acid, then wait another hour and add 3 lbs of shock. She said I needed to get TC and FC balanced out and then add an algeacide. She said that algeacide was the only thing that would get rid of mustard algea. After reading this forum, I am to believe that chlorine is all that is needed to get rid of it. Any help is appreciated.
    She told you to add 'bicarb' and then 'acid'? What kind of "acid"?

    Good ole' chlorine is all you need and you are in the right place to get help. Welcome to TFP!
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Help with algea

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    She told you to add 'bicarb' and then 'acid'? What kind of "acid"?

    Good ole' chlorine is all you need and you are in the right place to get help. Welcome to TFP!
    Yes ma'am. 4 scoops of sodium bicarbonate (12 lbs I think) then, 2 hrs later, 1 1/2 scoops of muratic acid.

    I've been doing a lot of reading here today and it seems I've been "pool stored" already. I just spent $150 on pool chems last week. I do have another question...I shocked to pool with 3 lbs of cal-hypo at 6pm. Since I do not have a test kit (yes, I know I need one) how should I go about maintaining shock level? Should I just add a couple of more lbs. of cal-hypo in the morning? I will get the water tested again at lunch tomorrow.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

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    loridud's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algea

    Please read my entire post(s) under: "Just getting started.....New-home-1st-time-pool-owner-a-green-pool-help!!" (it is recent)

    I just bought a home, had a pump break, had a beautiful pool turn into a swamp, have been fighting the algae war (4th day), and I am a 1st time pool owner as well. I joined this website and have learned SO MUCH in just a few days!! And my pool is now sparkling and beautiful again.

    I think you could benefit from reading through my "algae war story!!"
    Lori & Aaron D, Trophy Club, TX
    ~~30Kgal--IG gunite--attached spa--Pentair Cartridge filter--1.5hp Challenger pump~~

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algea

    I see you have a plaster pool. See, I'm not real knowledgable about CH and plaster surfaces, and using CAl-hypo increases your calcium.... you are at 314 now and I believe the range is 200-400...

    Without a test kit, shocking and holding it there is a problem, as you are just guessing, or making frequent trips to the pool stealer risking your pocketbook with every trip....you have to PROMISE US YOU WON'T BUY ANYTHING....LOL

    Order a good kit, tonight. You won't regret it. I got the TF-100 from Duraleigh, the links on the homepage. A good test kit gives you complete control of your pool water.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    Re: Help with algea

    Quote Originally Posted by loridud
    Please read my entire post(s) under: "Just getting started.....New-home-1st-time-pool-owner-a-green-pool-help!!" (it is recent)

    I just bought a home, had a pump break, had a beautiful pool turn into a swamp, have been fighting the algae war (4th day), and I am a 1st time pool owner as well. I joined this website and have learned SO MUCH in just a few days!! And my pool is now sparkling and beautiful again.

    I think you could benefit from reading through my "algae war story!!"
    I have read that thread already.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: Help with algea

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    I see you have a plaster pool. See, I'm not real knowledgable about CH and plaster surfaces, and using CAl-hypo increases your calcium.... you are at 314 now and I believe the range is 200-400...

    Without a test kit, shocking and holding it there is a problem, as you are just guessing, or making frequent trips to the pool stealer risking your pocketbook with every trip....you have to PROMISE US YOU WON'T BUY ANYTHING....LOL

    Order a good kit, tonight. You won't regret it. I got the TF-100 from Duraleigh, the links on the homepage. A good test kit gives you complete control of your pool water.
    I promise...I won't buy anything. Well, I do need more DE.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  13. Back To Top    #13

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    Re: Help with algea

    Newest numbers...

    PH - 8.2
    TA - 134
    FC - 10
    TC - 10
    CH - 335 (total hardness)
    CYA - 72

    The pool store told me to add 48 oz. of muratic acid to bring the pH down. I plugged the numbers into the pool calc and added 2 more lbs of cal-hypo to bring it back to 20ppm.

    I shocked yesterday evening, last night, and around 8am this morning. I took tje sample to the pool store at noon. This is difficult seeing as how I don't have a test kit (ordered a TF-100 this morning) and I have no way of knowing what my FC level is unless I make a trip up to the pool store. That and being at work all day only allows me to shock in the morning, at lunch and in the evening. My saturation index is also high. It is at 1.

    Any suggestions?
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  14. Back To Top    #14
    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algea

    Leave your pH alone since test results can be wrong when chlorine levels are high. I hate to suggest more money, especially since you'll have your TF-100 later this week most likely, but Walmart sells a kit for about $15. You can use the dilution method to extend the range of the kit (at the expense of some accuracy) and keep an eye on your chlorine until you have the TF-100. Add 3 parts distilled water to 1 part pool water, and test the mixture. Multiply your reading by 4 to get a good indication of the actual chlorine level.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

  15. Back To Top    #15

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    Re: Help with algae

    Thanks for all of the responses. I'm a little torn right now. Do I just eat the $150+ I just spent last week on cal-hypo and tabs or should I use it up before switching over to the BBB method? Obviously, once I get this algea situation under control I will need to do a partial drain and refill to bring the CYA down. Your thoughts?
    Also, is it bad to have a saturation level of 1?
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  16. Back To Top    #16
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algae

    Your CH and CYA levels are both already fairly high. If you keep using trichlor and/or cal-hypo for any length of time, one of them will get too high and probably start causing problems.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  17. Back To Top    #17

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    Re: Help with algae

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Your CH and CYA levels are both already fairly high. If you keep using trichlor and/or cal-hypo for any length of time, one of them will get too high and probably start causing problems.
    But if I do a partial drain and refill, shouldn't both of those numbers come down?
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  18. Back To Top    #18
    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Help with algae

    Quote Originally Posted by h2o
    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Your CH and CYA levels are both already fairly high. If you keep using trichlor and/or cal-hypo for any length of time, one of them will get too high and probably start causing problems.
    But if I do a partial drain and refill, shouldn't both of those numbers come down?
    Short answer, "Yes".
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  19. Back To Top    #19

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    Re: Help with algae

    Okay, thanks for all the help. I think I am going to go that route for the short term. I just hate to **** away that much cash. I have read enough to convince me to try the BBB method though.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Re: Help with algae

    h20,

    You won't throw it away. Save the Cal Hypo for shocking and the pucks for when you go on vacation.

    In small doses, both these products fit in with BBB very nicely.....you'll see.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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