Turning the corner?

[skyjenn]

Please start a new thread for your particular issue. Thanks. --Smykowski

Key is to maintain the level until you don't have overnight loss. That is when the algae is all dead.

Getting all of the leaves out will help immensely. Give it a good scrub and see what happens tonight. One test after the sun goes down and another before the sun comes up. You want to see zero loss (.5 is acceptable). Anything higher is an indication that the cl is still doing battle.

I live on the coast in Mobile; similar weather as the poster you are helping. Trying to start up after winter close; I bought the wrong test kit last year and am trying to use up the chemicals before purchasing another. My readings at start up on Sunday: CYA: 40, PH 7.5, 25,000 gallons in ground. Since my kit only reads to 5 on the FC and I estimate needing 16 FC, I only know when I exceed 5 FC. I maintained more than 5 all day today; I added 4 gallons 5.25 tonight; will brush in the am and add 4 more gallons and then 4 gallons again tomorrow. Shallow end was almost clear this am, but when brushing I felt like I could vacuum and do more good. Deep end still very green but not black. When vacuuming deep end I hit a hard suction area and realized there must be more leaves and got them out. Not many leaves, but feel better vacuuming and bagging again. I brushed afterwards. This morning I hit with 6 gallons and the water went very cloudy, but deep in less dark green. I think I am close to turning the point. I am worried that without being able to test FC exactly that I may be wasting chlorine. Any thoughts out there?

 

[Smykowski]

I am worried that without being able to test FC exactly that I may be wasting chlorine.

I think you answered your own question. The only way to properly SLAM a pool (and use the TFPC method) is with accurate testing and dosing.

 

[skyjenn]

Shallow end is blue; deep end is lighter this morning. FC still high above 5ppm overnight. Brushing revealed no sediment that would have needed to be vacuumed. I may be using more bleach than necessary without the higher FC test, but what I am doing is working.

 

[bridgman]

Until you get a better test kit I guess you could mix one part pool water with three parts tap water, test the FC level of the mixture and multiply the result by 4. That would let you measure up to 20 ppm...

 

[duraleigh]

skyjen,

tell us more about the current chlorine test you are using. Do you add 5 drops of yellow solution to the pool water sample?

 

[skyjenn]

I started coming to this site last year after wasting a lot of money at the pool stores. I went to Leslies and bought their DPD test kit for like $80 thinking I was getting the right one. I had my pool clear at this time after an algae kill where I used bleach and then sink/swim. I stayed with this site and kept my pool up until closing for the winter. The kit was fine for daily testing of good water. I just got a fresh sample and am going back to Leslie's in a few minutes to buy the "correct" test. I can buy it there faster than I can order it online. I guess I could sink/swim at this point and then vacuum up after it drops. Water color is better, but cloudy. Deep end is better but still light green. Current test takes two 5 drop combinations for FC reading and another 5 drops of a different item for TC. I have pictures from my phone, but it won't let me upload them. I have reduced them in size to almost nothing and they still won't load.

 

[skyjenn]

trying this url; let me know if you can see the pic

 

[jblizzle]

Leslie's will NOT have the correct test ... unless it is a commercial supply house. They either will not know what the FAS-DPD test is or will tell you it is the same as the DPD test or will tell you that you do not need it.

You will likely just need to order it online ... preferably the TF-100 from tftestkits.net.

Pic not showing. Upload to Photobucket (or similar) and post the link or you can attach them in Tapatalk and they will host them.

 

[skyjenn]

Just got back from Leslie's. I have a good store, they sell the kit I need for professionals and it is available by special order or online. So, since I can't get it tonight, then I will order the tft kit.

Readings: FC: 7.5, TAC 7.5, CH 140, CYA 35, TA 90, PH 8, Phosphates 100

Will check Pool Calculator for chlorine needed and add. Any other suggestions until I get the correct test kit?

 

[jblizzle]

Lower the pH, that is about the only thing I might trust from those results that needs adjusting.

 

[skyjenn]

Try this photo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skyjenn]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skyjenn]

I've been slamming since Sunday and have gone from solid green and not seeing any bottom of either end to what you see in the pictures above. I am getting to raise back to shock. Hoping deep in green starts going away........

 

[jblizzle]

OH, I missed that you are in the middle of SLAMing ... in that case you need to lower your pH and then get the FC level back up to SLAM level around 16ppm (which you have no way of confirming, unfortunately).

The fact that you are letting the FC drop so low is just going to make the process take longer.

 

[skyjenn]

Yes I know, not knowing how fast it's dropping and by how much is dragging the process out. When I started with this method, my pool was clear last year. This is the first time I have killed algae this way. Used to super shock and floc and vacuum. Wondering if I should do that now?

 

[jblizzle]

You just need the proper tool to do the job.

Nuking the pool with chlorine can end up damaging your liner, so we never recommend that. And floc is hit or miss and may or may not help so we do not recommend that either. Plus you have no way of knowing if you have successfully killed everything.

 

[skyjenn]

9 hours after sink and swim I can clearly see all bottom and deep end algae is settling on bottom. Directions say 12-24 hours so I will wait to vacuum until tomorrow. BBB is great for maintenance and a great start to killing algae but why wait a week when I can have it clear tomorrow. Will maintain according to pool school. Will try adding borates soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[karmabiker]

Sink and Swim?

Not tracking...

Stay away from the powered shock, you will be adding things other than chlorine (either CH or CYA). No need for the flock. Just bleach (or liquid CL ... same thing)

Do you have a set of results from the TF-100 you can post?

- - - Updated - - -

BBB is great for maintenance and a great start to killing algae but why wait a week when I can have it clear tomorrow.

Headslap. Nevermind.

 

[jblizzle]

It might be "clearish" but you have no guarantee that you completely eradicated everything unless you pass the 3 criteria to stop the SLAM process.

 

[skyjenn]

Although flock treatments are not recommended by the author of "Turning your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis" he states "it is possible to do a flock treatment to clean up dead algae". I know I am not finished with my algae clean up, but by removing as much dead algae quickly I can now see the entire bottom and know if I still have a leaf problem and can prepare for the three days of rain that will start today. I plan to vacuum again in a few minutes to get what I stirred up while vacuuming the first time. I will then test a sample and see what my numbers are and can relate what the flock did to my chemical balance.

Pool owners in the Gulf Coast have more rain than most people on this forum and a high level of pollen this time if year and that needs to be taken into account by all experts on this site. Someone who is slamming right now in Pensacola, Trishanna, needs help with this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk