Min CYA and TA levels after drain and fill?

[consoleman]

I drained my pool yesterday due to high CYA to get it ready for pool season (previous home owner used tablets). I tested the city water and I remember getting a < 20-30ppm CYA. I think i need to raise it in order to control the chlorine level accurately. Could someone verify the following?

CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80 for non SWG outdoor pools.
TA minimum is 50 ppm.

My wife told me the pool has a light green color. I guess the water hoses had algea in them cause the pool water was clear when i started draining it. A SLAM session is about to start!! :whip

 

[JasonLion]

When you really don't have any CYA in the water, only true after a clean fill, SLAM level is 5.

Non-SWG pools the target CYA level is between 30 and 50. The higher numbers are if you have a SWG.

Also, raise TA up to about 70 to start, rather than just 50.

 

[Smykowski]

Non SWG pools should be at 30-50 for CYA.

TA should probably be in the 70-90 range. No lower than 60, bit if you're higher than 100, don't worry about it. SLAMing the pool and getting the FC and pH dialed in is more important.

 

[consoleman]

Thanks for the reply guys.

Should I SLAM while the CYA is less than <= 20 ppm (Taylor K2006C lowest reading is 20ppm) at a SLAM level of 5 or raise the CYA to ~40ppm and SLAM at level ~ 20?

 

[pwrstrk]

I would get the CYA up to 20-30 ppm. You'll get some protection from the sun with it raised to 20-30 ppm. What is your PH. You want the PH to be in the low 7's before you SLAM. Remember the PH test is in valid with FC levels of 10 or more so adjust the PH before you take your FC level to SLAM level. ?

 

[consoleman]

I admit to not checking the PH of the city water before starting the drain and fill. I assumed it was OK since it was "city water".

I have never added Muiatic Acid to lower PH since I have only had the pool for about 3 months. I have researched that there is no direct way of measuring MA when adding it to the pool water.

 

[pwrstrk]

You can use a measuring cup. Pool math will tell you how much to add to lower your PH an X amount.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html ?

 

[consoleman]

one last thing....since i just did a drain and fill the water is now green. Will SLAMing the pool, running the pump 24x7 and getting the levels correct clear it up?

Do i need an algeacide? I heard algeacides are a big no no since you dont know what you are adding into your pool

 

[pwrstrk]

No algaecide's ! You'll SLAM the pool with bleach only. Yes SLAMING the pool will clear it up. Have you read the SLAM process ? Also city water contains zero CYA. We will need to know your CYA level to SLAM.

Do you have one of our recommended test kits ?

 

[consoleman]

I have a Taylor K2006C kit. I plan on raising the (CYA to 30ppm) and (TA to 70 ppm) and the Chlorine to the appropriate levels . I just wanted to ask if doing so will remove the algae from the water alone or is there something else that has to be done?

 

[pwrstrk]

Bleach and following the SLAM process to the T will take care of the algae.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl ?

 

[consoleman]

Thanks you for help. I think this forum gets more support that other pool forums that I have been a part of. I will becoming a member of this forum....paying member that is

 

[pwrstrk]

You will have all the support you need here. No problem with that ! ?

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to TFP!

Some Algaecides have 11% Copper and this can lead to staining of your Pool. No need to drain as proper Chlorination and or a SLAM procedure will fix that for you.

Chlorine is all you need to keep Algae away or kill it.

 

[consoleman]

...and the pool store try and sell that stuff to you knowing whats in it. I added ~ 2 cups of Muriatic acid, 4 lbs of stabilizer and 3 gallons of 6% bleach.

I tied a sock with the stabilizer, let it soak for and hour and then shook it until it released all of the powder. It was right next to the skimmer, is that ok?
I added the diluted bleach to the deepest end of the pool along with the muriatic acid.

 

[jblizzle]

All liquids should be slowly poured in front of a return jet in the deepest part of the pool ... then a quick brush ensures nothing settled to the bottom.

Usually you just put the sock in the skimmer and let it dissolve.

 

[anonapersona]

Bleach plus muratic acid makes mustard gas. Always store these two far apart and use them separated by 30 to 60 minutes and at opposite ends of the pool is not a bad idea as well.

You can cheat and shorten that time if you brush with a Wall Whale which moves a lot of water fast and will do a bang up job of mixing chemicals so you can proceed with the second addition.

 

[JasonLion]

It isn't mustard gas, it is chlorine gas that is produced when you mix concentrated bleach and acid. Of course, they are both quite dangerous.

This only happens when concentrated chemicals are mixed together. Adding them separately to the pool is just fine as long as the first one has had a chance to mix into the water before you add the second. If you add chemicals as we suggest, by pouring slowly above a return jet while the pump is running, then you only need a few minutes, call it 5 minutes, between chemicals, as mixing of liquid chemicals is very efficient. Allow additional time between additions if adding powdered/granular chemicals, or pre-dissolve so you are adding liquids to the pool (which we recommend doing for other reasons anyway).

This is much more important to keep in mind when storing chemicals. Bleach and acid should always be stored separately, so that even if both bottles leaked at the same time the resulting chemical puddles will not interact. The odds of both bottles leaking at the same time are very low, but the risk, should that occur, is rather large so it is well worth the extra effort to store them in different places.

 

[anonapersona]

Ah, thanks for the correction. Nasty, in any case.