I FINALLY got my SWG installed and running

No numbers tonight, I was too busy trying to get my replacement system plumbed in. I'll wire in the control box in the morning and do a chlorine test then. Last I saw though was instant salt @ 4800 and average still 4600. After I turned off the power for cold this morning and turned it back on, it generated chlorine the rest of the pump runtime-- almost 8 hrs.
 
I had typed a long story about my plumbing problems this morning but it disappeared when I went to a different page. Suffice it to say , it hasn't been a pleasant morning (I'm talking massive leak here) I had to cut the pvc just above the flow switch and replumb it. I finally fixed the leak after about 1 hour of fiddling with it. I still have a drip at the after cell connection, but it's something I can live with. Now both flow switches I've installed oozed a drop from the black nut like thing at a pace I can also live with.
Now for the numbers.
FC-- 10.0
Cc-- 0.0
PH--7.8
TA--90
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity-- K-1766 test still 4000. Average for just the few minutes it had run 3300. Instant 4100 So far so good.
Water temp--57
 
Man I'm sorry to hear about the trouble. Was it maybe the cement bot fusing the pvc good enough? I hope the dripping doesn't get worse but at least you got the big leak fixed. I'm cheering for you bud !

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Man I'm sorry to hear about the trouble. Was it maybe the cement bot fusing the pvc good enough? I hope the dripping doesn't get worse but at least you got the big leak fixed. I'm cheering for you bud !

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Not a pvc connection problem. All my glued connections are fine, it's the rear cell screw on connection. Might be an o ring problem. I just hope it doesn't blow up on me while I'm away next week.
 
On the screw on part did you put some plumbers tape then with a big wrench do a quarter turn. but what it sounds like it was threaded wrong or something

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Oh I see. I do remember putting in the o ring but having to push it into the groove

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One of my o rings didnt quite fit right. I might have to replace it with one of the old ones. But not right now. The little ooze isn't too bad. Now for a technical question for the experts. With my chlorine level so high, and the water temp below 60. Couldn't I shorten my pump runtime to say 4 hrs and if need be increase my percentage a bit. Im assuming the pump is using considerably more electricity than the cl generator. Please correct me if im wrong. What % should I be running now to get my fc down to a better level? 10 is way too high.
 
I don't have new numbers after my week-long vacation due to a little capacitor problem I had while gone. but the results from yesterday's test are:

FC-- 4.0 Not too bad for not having had the SWG running for who knows how long
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--40 We haven't any dilution since we left so I have no idea how it could have gone down in the week we were gone??? Could the pool water temp difference be the reason?
Salinity--?????
Water temp--66 From pool thermometer

Hope to get my new capacitor installed today or tomorrow depending on when the rain stops, and get everything up and running again.
 
Water's about the same level as when we left. Raining hard here now with Thunder things as well. You just had to send it here eh???:rolleyes:

Happy to hear you got it figured out. As far as leaks at non glue joints such as where the cell attaches and any screw type unions I had good luck with plumbers dope. Plumbers dope is available at any hardware store or home depot it is the putty that is used for mounting over mount sinks on countertops and not having any leaks. I had a leak very small dripping leak at my screw on cell union and the plumber's dope worked for me.
 

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