Need suggestion for Algae prevention

[MSI]

During my travels on business, sometime I have problem with green algae. I have rearely allowed the FC drop below 3 ppm. typically, I dump more additional bleach before leaving home and have recently fitted in-line chlorinator with 3" tabs. With south florida rain, ph gets affected from time to time. I have been considering ionizer (solar) or even Nature 2 type.

I am not looking for reducing chlorine use or everything people talk about. I am just looking for a helping hand to prevent algae bulid-up during my absence. Appreciate any recommendations.

Thanks

 

[Bama Rambler]

Instead of an ionizer, mineralizer, etc., how about adding an injection pump and adding the bleach automatically? That would be my first suggestion.

 

[bobodaclown]

X 2 what Bama said or this:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/3940-Homemade-Acid-OR-Chlorine-Injection-System

 

[Smykowski]

How much are you out of town? I can spend up to half the week away on work and never have a problem.

Can we start with a full set of test results? I'm going to guess that your FC/CYA ratio is not quite right.

 

[MSI]

Thank you all. Much appreciated. I have been away from home for about week now. The pool started turning green about 3 days ago. I have the test results before I left home and will do the tests tomorrow and post both results.

FC has never been a problem. I maintain a log of all tests on a weekly basis and chemicals added. Last few months:

FC: always >3
CC: 0
PH: between 7.2 - 7.6 (depending on rain)
TA: 70 - 80
CYA: 75-85
CH: 250
Temp - 75-79 deg. (up to 90 during summer months)

Typically, over past few years, I have used on average about 1 gal. liquid chlorine from Pinch a Penny per week. Pool is exposed to full sun and chlorine consumption in summer is little higher. I have always been very particular about maintaining the water chemistry / balance. Always erred on little higher chlorine than lower due to our tropical climate. Pool is open throughout the year.

I live in Miami area by a small tidal river mouth - "Brackish water" (about 100 yards from bay). River is chemically clean but has lot of algae and fish big and small. Pool has no leaks, no stains, vac/pump operates about 10 hrs / day. Pool gets scrubed regularly. Typically, My travel is unpredictable and can last between few days to max about 3-4 weeks at a time. Normally, the pool is crystal clear blue most of the time but sometime, it starts turning green overnight. (Typically I have noted day or two after the lawn is mowed, but there has never been any grass clippings in the pool). My wife helps in testing and adding chemicals during my absence but not as methodolically as i do.

I have conducted various test for overnight chlorine loss etc. Follow the shocking process / cleaning and pool clears up very quickly after shocking it with liquid chlorine. (in 24-48 hours).

I dont have any issues with shocking the pool to get rid of algae 3-4 times a year (in tropical climate). I have never used any algaecides. Pool is not used a lot but I like to keep it in very clean condition. What I am looking for is a little helping hand from ionizer or mineral additive if it really works as some people say. Nature 2 claims that it will not stain the pools. I am not sure about effectiveness of solar powered ionizers or stability of in-line ionizers. I know there are no magic solutions but I am willing to experiment / try.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Smykowski]

FC: always >3

CYA: 75-85

This right here is the problem. With a CYA of 80, your FC min needs to be 6. Every time you let it dip below 6, you let algae gain a toehold. When it stays below 6, you're letting it try to take over.

Your best bet right now is to SLAM the pool. After the SLAM is complete, run your FC maintenance level higher. Remember that it's safe to swim in any FC up to SLAM level. I would target 9 or 10, and add bleach when it gets to 7. If you're going out of town for a week, target 15 so that it's still above 6 when you get home.

 

[bridgman]

and have recently fitted in-line chlorinator with 3" tabs.

Is it worth thinking about reducing or stopping the use of (presumably trichlor) tabs since CYA is already sufficiently high ?

 

[FamilyGuy]

I was going to suggest totally removing the puck feeder and investing in a liquid system ( stenner pump or liquidator) also reread pool math and realize with a cya of 75-80 a fc of 3ppm is to low to prevent algae growth and should be kept higher to maintain a clean pool............just my 2cents

 

[zea3]

The CYA needs to stay in the 30-50 range. If you want to continue using pucks for insurance while you are gone then you will need to monitor the CYA and do a partial drain/refill when it gets above 50ppm.
You may also want to consider a SWG as an option to add chlorine by automation.

 

[chem geek]

Or The Liquidator is another automated option.

 

[Isaac-1]

What they all said

 

[pwrstrk]

My suggestion is, if your going to stay with liquid chlorine lower your CYA level to 30-50 ppm range. 80 ppm CYA is too high for a non SWG pool. If you wanted to go with a SWG your CYA level can stay where it's at.

 

[chem geek]

Because of the amount of sun in places like Florida and Arizona, some people do have their CYA levels on the higher side to lessen the amount of chlorine lost to sunlight, BUT one has to be very diligent in maintaining the proper FC level at all times because if you don't and algae starts to grow it then takes a higher FC level to SLAM the pool.

 

[pwrstrk]

Because of the amount of sun in places like Florida and Arizona, some people do have their CYA levels on the higher side to lessen the amount of chlorine lost to sunlight, BUT one has to be very diligent in maintaining the proper FC level at all times because if you don't and algae starts to grow it then takes a higher FC level to SLAM the pool.

I agree. The keyword is diligent about maintaing the correct FC level or it's a boat load of bleach to SLAM.