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Thread: Replacing the main PCB on Aqua-Rite

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    41

    Replacing the main PCB on Aqua-Rite

    The original Turbo cell (cell #1) went bad and I replaced it with a new cell (#2).
    The Aqua-rite said I had Hi salt.
    I had the salt tested at 4 locations. 2 used an analog meter, 1 used test strips and the last used a digital meter. All results indicated salt levels between 2800-3400.
    After discussions with Hayward they suggested, cell #2 was mislabeled as a T-5 as opposed to a T-15.
    I replaced cell #2 with cell #3, which was tested good at the pool store and verified to be a T-15. I still had Hi salt.

    Hayward then gave me the phone numbers of several warranty repair places to come look at the cell and box. Their charges are $115-$150 for a service call.

    I feel confident of the salt level in the pool. I feel confident that the cell is good.
    About all that is left is the Main PCB.

    Has anyone replaced a man PCB? It should be similar to replacing computer parts.
    A warranty replacement PCB is $250.

    Ideas and comments are welcome.
    Steve
    27,000 gal Vinyl Grecian L, Hayward 1 HP pump, Hayward sand filter, Aqua Rite Chlorinator,
    Polaris P955, TF-100, Speed Stir, 400sqft solar panels.
    Jacuzzi J365

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    874

    Re: Replacing the main PCB on Aqua-Rite

    i haven't done it on aquarite, but on most SWGs it's pretty straightforward

    disconnect the cables, undo the screws, remove pcb, put new one, put cables back in

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Coastalish 'down easter'
    Posts
    4,160

    Re: Replacing the main PCB on Aqua-Rite

    Not to rub it in, but I suggested the board as being the problem and not the cell . It's very easy to do this, though I've only had do do it a couple of times. Get the new motherboard, take off the inside cover and remove the controls panel (it 'pops' on to 4 white plastic 'stands') the connections are labeled by the color of the wire that goes on to each one. You need a flathead screwdriver, or better yet - a 5/16" nutdriver to replace the board.

    If you have any questions about doing this, ask and I'll help.
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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