Hayward Aqua Plus SWG

[vucko002]

I see a lot of aqua rite in my google searches, but I dont see any instructions for the Aqua Plus. My salt levels are reading 2500 even though I put two large bags of salt in the last two days. Its been around 30 to 50 degrees during the day, and 20 degrees at night. I inspected my cell and dont see any build up at all. I put the cell back on and checked the plug, it looked fine. I turned the power off, and then on again and the system still read 2500.

Anyone know how to reset/recalibrate a salt cell on a Hayward Aqua Plus? I read all about the Aqua Rites and the Plus's do not have a "diagnostic" button to push and hold. Its in the menu as I scroll across.

Please help

Im thinking I need a new Tcell since the system has been running at 70% chlorinate with no chlorine being generated (Salt being at 3200). Ive been having to put in gallons of bleach a month during the last summer, where the first summer it ran I only had it at 10%. I did notice my hardness levels are pretty high, not sure if thats any issue with it. The pool people said it was low before and added a bunch of calcium during the summer.

 

[Bama Rambler]

It would help if you posted a set of test results including an independent salt level.

Cells tend to read low salt levels when they start failing.
How old is the unit?
What is the water temp?

 

[vucko002]

It would help if you posted a set of test results including an independent salt level.

Cells tend to read low salt levels when they start failing.
How old is the unit?
What is the water temp?

I tested using an electronic salt tester after I put in the bags...and it measured 2950. The salt system still said 2500. The system only ran an hour after I put in that second bag of salt.

Ive only had the pool for 2.5 years. The tcell and system is the same age.
Water temp is 50 degrees today.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Water temp will cause the unit to read low and it will also shut down at about the temp your pool is.

Got a full set of test results and how you got them?

 

[vucko002]

I only did a test strip since its been the winter, and I was just making sure my PH wasnt too high and my Chlorine was high enough. Also, I poured a bottle of bleach in yesterday since my Chlorine was at zero.


Salt from electronic meter: 2950
Total Hardness: 250
Chlorine: 3
FC: 2
PH: 7.6
Alkalinity: 70
CYA: 40

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry, I mean I used my 5 test kit that shows Chorine, Bromine, PH, and Alkalinity. I used the test string for calcium hardness and CYA (stabilizer)

 

[JamesW]

I would shut down the SWG until the water temperature goes beck above 60F. I would also recommend checking the cell for scale and cleaning it, if necessary.

 

[vucko002]

I would shut down the SWG until the water temperature goes beck above 60F. I would also recommend checking the cell for scale and cleaning it, if necessary.

How do I do that? The Chlorinator is off due to the cold weather. Once the weather comes back to normal, how do I reset it so the system check clears? I did check for scale and it was clean. When the weather is warmer..I will clean it with a stand I bought a week ago. Before it was pretty difficult in a bucket.

 

[jblizzle]

I agree. I would just turn the output down to 0 until the water warms back up. Use bleach to supplement FC as required.

The check system light is on a timer and comes on every 3 months/500 hours operation to remind you to inspect the cell ... does not necessarily mean there is actually a problem. There is some series of buttons to push to reset the check system light (on the AquaRite) The Aqua Plus is the same as my ProLogic P4 when you see the "Inspect Cell" message in the Default Menu, you press the + button to reset the timer.

I would not worry about trying to reset the salt reading ... it does not actually calibrate anything, just temporarily sets the salt level it thinks it has, but over time it switches back to the actual readings. Likely the issues are just based on the cold water.

 

[vucko002]

I agree. I would just turn the output down to 0 until the water warms back up. Use bleach to supplement FC as required.

The check system light is on a timer and comes on every 3 months/500 hours operation to remind you to inspect the cell ... does not necessarily mean there is actually a problem. There is some series of buttons to push to reset the check system light (on the AquaRite) The Aqua Plus is the same as my ProLogic P4 when you see the "Inspect Cell" message in the Default Menu, you press the + button to reset the timer.

I would not worry about trying to reset the salt reading ... it does not actually calibrate anything, just temporarily sets the salt level it thinks it has, but over time it switches back to the actual readings. Likely the issues are just based on the cold water.

So I called a pool tech and they said it was because the menu is locked. I unlocked and tried to redo some things, but Im not an expert so I dont know how things like output/input aux 1,2 should be set at. Im waiting on a pool tech ot call me back for an appointment .

I was able to reset it,and the check system is now off. When I shut off the main circuits, then put on the superchlorinate, then read the diagnostics..it said 3700 salt reading. This was reaffirmed with the salt strip reading and electronic reading. Problem is the home menu still says 2500 salt and 72 degree water...which I know isnt right. Why are they conflicting the diagnostic reading in the same system? very frustrating

So back to the original issue of low chlorine. Do you think I should replace the cell? Or wait for warmer days and see if super chlorinate and 60% chlorine do anything?

In the meantime, I will clean the cell too.

 

[jblizzle]

The water is too cold to know anything at this point. When it warms up, see if it can maintain FC levels ... no point in using Super Chlorinate.

If the readings seem correct at the AquaPlus ... seems like your remote or whatever you have in the house may have the problem (I have no experience with those options).

I do not think you should have had to unlock anything to enter the configuration menu. Have you read the manual? Not that it is that straight forward. They are all on the Hayward site.

 

[vucko002]

I did read the manual..its confusing. Reading on this forum, they told me the way to reset it is to turn off the power to the aqua plus....then after turning it back on..you set it to superchlorinate (the only reason I put to superchlorinate was to get the diagnostic reading and reset...not to actually chlorinate the pool)...wait til the countdown ran...then you read those readings. Those are the readings I told you (3700 with water temp of 48 degrees), those readings were conflicting to at the front panel said when you just scroll through. My question was why the diagnostic reading is conficting when its same panel. Doesnt make any sense

Ill chalk it up to cold water...but front aqua plus panel said 72 degree water adn 2500 ppm salt. The diagnostic aqua plus panel said 50 degree water temp with 3700 salt ppm..which is more accurate. I hate this thing

 

[jblizzle]

Oh ... I think you are looking at the "instantaneous" salt level and the "average" salt level. You should not need to unlock anything to see the Diagnostics menu. Whenever the SWG is generating, if will show the Instant salt along with the voltage and current. The other salt reading is the average. Since the water is cold, it may not have had enough run time to fully sense the new salt and raise the average.

You should be able to see 3 (or 4) temps: Air, Water, Cell, (solar). The water is the little black sensor that is drilled into one of your pipes. The Cell has its one temp sensor in inside. Ideally those 2 should be the same although I usually see a 2 degree difference.

If it is the water temp sensor that shows 72 ... then that sensor could be bad.

 

[vucko002]

Oh ... I think you are looking at the "instantaneous" salt level and the "average" salt level. You should not need to unlock anything to see the Diagnostics menu. Whenever the SWG is generating, if will show the Instant salt along with the voltage and current. The other salt reading is the average. Since the water is cold, it may not have had enough run time to fully sense the new salt and raise the average.

You should be able to see 3 (or 4) temps: Air, Water, Cell, (solar). The water is the little black sensor that is drilled into one of your pipes. The Cell has its one temp sensor in inside. Ideally those 2 should be the same although I usually see a 2 degree difference.

If it is the water temp sensor that shows 72 ... then that sensor could be bad.

Yes, I think Ill wait til the temperature raises again to a normal level. If its been warm (air temp of over 65 degrees for a few days in a row), and its still not reading right. I think I will call a technician. This never happened before, but last winter was pretty warm.

This issue allstarted when the check system light went on, and the freeze protection didnt kick in. I believe I may have a bad tcell since the whole summer I had it set at 70% chlorinate,and had to continuously use liquid chlorine to stabilize the water. I have a tcell 9 on there with a 7K gallon fiberglass pool.

Does anyone reccommend adding in Borate? Adding in Borax/Muriatic Acid to help maintain PH and Chlorine during the summer.

 

[jblizzle]

The Tcell-9 is a good size cell for your pool volume ... how long were you having to run with the setting on 70%?

Borates are optional, but they can help stabilize the pH and reduce scaling in the SWG cell.

 

[vucko002]

All summer long for 8 hours a day The first summer we had the system, I had it running at 10% and it worked really well. The second summer which was the last summer, I had it running at 70% all day long. I had to continuously add liquid chlorine to get it up. Im thinking the tcell had it. Its still under warranty since its only been 2.5 years...but my pool company is not returning my call..shocking.

I did have to add absorbic acid a lot this summer because browns stains at the sides and bottom of the pool. I know that eats up chlorine, but I only did it twice. After doing some reading, I bought HASA super stain out and a culator to remove the iron in the water. Do I add Magenta Stuff after I do this to maintain? Or do you think after the culator is done...should take care of the problem?

 

[Bama Rambler]

I think that I would wait until it warms up a good bit and get a set of test results from a good test kit and even run an OCLT before I blamed the cell.