This is the third heat exchanger that has developed pin hole leaks in my Hayward NG heater. Does anyone make a better exchanger?
Copper-nickel heat exchangers
- Thread starter Minihorse
- Start date
Welcome to TFP.
Which heater do you have?
There are Titanium exchangers but I don't know if it's available for your heater of not. The more inportant question is, why have they failed?
The most common reason is water chemistry out of balance. How do you maintain your pool?
Which heater do you have?
There are Titanium exchangers but I don't know if it's available for your heater of not. The more inportant question is, why have they failed?
The most common reason is water chemistry out of balance. How do you maintain your pool?
Rheem and Raypak have Cupro-Nickel but Bama is right you need to address your acidic water problem first. I've only seen titanium in heat pumps but even if that made your heater invulnerable to acidic water other things will take damage like your ladders, screws, lights...basically anything metallic will erode. Acid is acid.
If you have one of the newer Hayward heaters, it is a known piece of junk. Get rid of the heater and address your water problems if the levels aren't right. I have know people/commercial places with the Hayward units and they do NOT hold up like they use to even though there water is balanced.
I think I kept my pool balance properly. I would like to know what the pros think is a superior replacement. I also have not been able to find Titanium in anything but a heat pump. If I am wrong please tell me.
We can't say for sure you were balanced without knowing your pool chemistry numbers. It looks like there is no heater with a Ti exchanger.
Titanium is only found in heat pumps. No matter what heat exchanger you get in a heater, if the pool water isn't kept balanced it will eat thru it. It might take a little longer but it will happen.
I install plenty of Raypak/Rheem's and have very few issues with them. I get lots of calls for service on the Hayward FD's, Sta Rite, and Master Temp's.
I install plenty of Raypak/Rheem's and have very few issues with them. I get lots of calls for service on the Hayward FD's, Sta Rite, and Master Temp's.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,828
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have a Cupro-Nickel Hayward heater for going on 9 years now without any problems. They should last a good long time so I suspect something else is going on.
Which model do you own? Also, do you have a chlorine puck feeder and is there a check valve between the heater and the feeder?
Which model do you own? Also, do you have a chlorine puck feeder and is there a check valve between the heater and the feeder?
In addition to the chemistry, you should check the flow rate through the heater. Excessive flow can cause erosion of the heat exchanger.
Those are some interesting questions.
No. I don't have a puck feeder, I am on Salt. So, no check valve either.
Flow rate is a possibility since I have never heard anybody talk about flow rate. My pump feeds directly to the heater (with 2-3 elbows but no other restriction. What should the flow rate be and how do I measure it?
No. I don't have a puck feeder, I am on Salt. So, no check valve either.
Flow rate is a possibility since I have never heard anybody talk about flow rate. My pump feeds directly to the heater (with 2-3 elbows but no other restriction. What should the flow rate be and how do I measure it?
There are a few flow rate meters you can install on your line if need be. I never see them on a residential pool but on commercial pools its a requirement. One way to manually test the flow rate, not fool proof, is to go to the pool returns and hold your hand over the return and see if it strong coming out. In many cases it should be pretty strong in that it is somewhat hard to hold your hand over the return. Now if you have a variable or multi-speed pump and the unit is operating on the low setting, this test fails. What type of filter do you have and how often do you clean your filter?
I have very strong return pressure. I have an old hayward 200 with the multi port valve on the side. New sand was in it two years ago. I backwash before ding chemicals. I don't pour any cleaner in very often.
My return (1 only) also runs my Polaris 165.
I have Hayward H-200. I will call them to find out about the flow rate and I will jury rig a flow meter in the return to the pool this coming up season.
I like the idea of replacing the entire heater and going with something a little better.
My return (1 only) also runs my Polaris 165.
I have Hayward H-200. I will call them to find out about the flow rate and I will jury rig a flow meter in the return to the pool this coming up season.
I like the idea of replacing the entire heater and going with something a little better.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,828
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I seriously doubt it is flow rate because the H series heaters have a built in bypass that prevents the flow rate from exceeding the maximum within the heat exchanger. The manual only suggests using an external bypass when the flow rates exceed 125 GPM which I doubt that they would. See page 25 & 26:
http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals ... lation.pdf
I think it is more likely to be a chemistry issue.
http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals ... lation.pdf
I think it is more likely to be a chemistry issue.
Minihorse said:
Usually the pool filter is between the pump and the heater. Is that the way yours is plumbed? If not, I'm wondering if your abrading your heat exchanger with unfiltered water.
Yes your right my filter is between the pump and heater. I must assume now that my chemistry is not always right and I will do a better job. With that said I still need a new heater and knowing I run it continually for about 4 months, what would you recommend. 18,000 gallons and I have trees and little sun during the day. Please don't tell me to cut down the trees because the wife won't let me.
My suggestion would be a Raypak/Rheem 400K BTU heater. A very good reliable simple unit with no extra bells or whistles that can break down the road. I would install it with bypass valves in case you want to take it out of the flow of water for pool chemical treatments.
