Changing pool piping

[milbogo]

It appears my pump will be below the skimmer port. I was hoping to have 2 check valves before the pumps - one for the main filter pump, and other to control a shower feature that will be used occasionally.

Because my pump will be below the skimmer port, will I need another valve before the main pump to stop water flow when I am cleaning the leaf basket?

or should I put a three port Jandy valve and control it with an actuator? Though I really liked the idea of two check valves doing the work automatically - when each pump was turned on.

So just to confirm my setup: Skimmer pipe > T join > One side to filter pump > Other side to shower feature. When one pump in on - other one will be off.

What other valves are needed in a pool setup?

Kind regards,
Mil

 

[Andrew69]

In the grand scheme, using two 45 is not worth it ... more joints with very little difference in head loss.

Thats not my understanding from the literature of a major manufacturer of pressure PVC here in Australia.
2x45 degree bends (seperated by at minimum distance of 4 times the pipe diameter) have about 1/3 the resistance to flow compared to a 90 degree bend.
A long radius 90 degree bend (where the radius is greater than 2 times the diameter) has about half the resistance compared to a regular 90 degree bend.

In a complex system (in floor cleaning for example) or where you want to run a variable speed pump, I think all the little things add up.

Probably overkill in the grand scheme of things as you said, but hey, if its worth doing, its worth over doing!

 

[duraleigh]

Thats not my understanding from the literature of a major manufacturer of pressure PVC here in Australia.
2x45 degree bends (seperated by at minimum distance of 4 times the pipe diameter) have about 1/3 the resistance to flow compared to a 90 degree bend.

mas985 may be along soon to give you accurate numbers but the consensus here on the forum supports jblizzle.....don't waste your time with 45's.

 

[milbogo]

The pool renovators finally arrive today. Your assistance would be appreciated with a few issues that came up - as I need to make some decisions fast before they return in a few days time.
ISSUE 1.
The renovators drilled new holes in the side of the pool and laid 40mm pipe instead of 50mm. That isn't so much on an issue, however the return inlets were not placed equidistant in the pool. ie the skimmer doesnt sit in the middle of them. The left inlet in 1.8m, from the wall, the right one is 3.5 m from the wall? (See pic below)
QUESTION: Will this form a dead spot circulation wise on the right side? Should I get them to move the right inlet - further to the right - so the skimmer sits in the middle of the of both inlets? (Keep in mind, left side is deep end, right side is shallow end). They will also need to fill in the hole.
ISSUE 2. The pipe from the filter to the inlets was placed going up hill (thus increasing head).
QUESTION: Should I ask them to make it parallel to the top of pool - can be easily done... or is it ok? (See Pic below).
These pipes will be underneath a deck - so they dont have to be underground - or parallel to the sloping ground.

Your opinion would be greatly appreciated - as I dont want to come across as an idiot asking them to do these requests - if in fact all is ok.

 

[milbogo]

What is the correct way to pipe return valves?? Left or right pic?

 

[Bama Rambler]

1) Don't worry about the return placement. They should have aimable eyeballs and you can adjust those to improve circulation. Even if they had placed them equal distances, it wouldn't guarrantee circulation.

2) Unless they ran them above the top of the equipment they haven't changed the head at all. Don't worry about the piping being level. It doesn't matter.

The right hand drawing will give you a little more equal flow but adding the extra pipe and fittings will increase the total head loss, so it probably won't make much difference in the end. I would have them change the piping out to 50mm, At least between the first return and the equipment pad.

 

[milbogo]

My pool reno is coming along - pipes laid - coping done. I will be hooking up the equipment soon. Are there any special valves I will need? Do I need a valve on the backwash pipe that leads to the sewer? ie How do I stop sewer air/gas entering into the filter? Do i need a check valve at the end before it enters the sewer pipe?

Kind regards,
Mil

BTW Pool reno guys laughed when they say I had 50mm back wash pipes that lead to the sewer.