First Self Test Complete Novice

Coxy

0
Dec 9, 2013
14
Ok so I just have done my very first water sample and might need a little help. Test Kit is Taylor K-2006

Pool Volume = 140,000 LTR

Free Chlorine = 3
Combined Chlorine = 2
PH = 7.4
Alkalinity = 140
Cyanuric Acid = 100

Chlorine I have is 125g/L Available Chorine. So I take that its 12.5%. Now just trying to work out how much I need to put in. I think I am doing this right. I need to make reference to the CYA level.

Coxy.
 
What's the question?

A few observations: If you read 100 CYA, there's a good chance it may be higher. You might want to check out extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html to see the dilution method for CYA when it's high like that. If CC is really 2. you need to perform the SLAM process. The good news is, is the pool isn;t green or cloudy, it shouldn't take long. Possibly only a day.

A final tip: at the very top of calc.html you can toggle the units to go metric.
 
Richard320 said:
What's the question?

A few observations: If you read 100 CYA, there's a good chance it may be higher. You might want to check out extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html to see the dilution method for CYA when it's high like that. If CC is really 2. you need to perform the SLAM process. The good news is, is the pool isn;t green or cloudy, it shouldn't take long. Possibly only a day.

A final tip: at the very top of calc.html you can toggle the units to go metric.

Hahahaha yep no idea what the question is yet. Still trying to work out what is going on. And yes the CYA that was tested at the pool shop was 165. But I have dropped alot of water out of it. And will continue to drop more over a few days. What im trying to do is to work out how much Chlorine to put in. Pool is still a little cloudy but clearing up from the green state it was in. Im confused as to the chart that comes in the kit and the other chart on the site that changes based on the CYA level.

And to slam the pool? no idea how to do that yet.

Coxy.
 
Richard320 said:
What's the question?

A few observations: If you read 100 CYA, there's a good chance it may be higher. You might want to check out extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html to see the dilution method for CYA when it's high like that. If CC is really 2. you need to perform the SLAM process. The good news is, is the pool isn;t green or cloudy, it shouldn't take long. Possibly only a day.

A final tip: at the very top of calc.html you can toggle the units to go metric.

I did the extended CYA test and it was sitting around 50 X 2 = 100. Thanks for the help on that one. But still confused as to how much Chlorine I need to use to slam the pool. Im not sure in the calc what the shock level reading refers to.

Coxy.
 
With your CYA level of 100, you should do a partial drain and refill to get that level down to around 60 or as low as you can for doing the SLAM process. A level of 100 is going to be tuff to SLAM with. You will need a boat load of bleach.
Ideally you want your CYA to be in the 30 - 50 ppm range. If your using a SWG then you want it in the 70-80 ppm range.
If you add your pool info and equipment info to your sig it will help us help you.
 
duraleigh said:
What im trying to do is to work out how much Chlorine to put in.
The FC/CYA chart in Pool School will give you that information.

So how do I actually read this chart. For Example if I had a CYA level of 100 and I need to Shock, I need a shock level of 39. But what is 39, is it 39ppm? Then how do I calculate this to pool volume to work out how much to put in?

Sorry for the questions but really trying to get my head around all this, im sure the penny will drop soon enough but now I am lost.

Coxy.
 
You are correct. IF your CYA is 100ppm, then you need to maintain the FC at 39ppm until the SLAM process is complete.

You use PoolMath to calculate how much bleach is required to achieve a given rise in FC.

I have to urge you to replace another 50% of the water to get the CYA and thus FC levels down to a more reasonable level BEFORE you start the SLAM Process.

BTW, since you got the K-2006 and have a high CYA level which is going to required a high FC level and thus a LOT of drops of the reagent to test for it ... you should order R-0871 refills ASAP!!!
 
Coxy said:
Ok so I just have done my very first water sample and might need a little help. Test Kit is Taylor K-2006

Pool Volume = 140,000 LTR

Free Chlorine = 3
Combined Chlorine = 2
PH = 7.4
Alkalinity = 140
Cyanuric Acid = 100

Chlorine I have is 125g/L Available Chorine. So I take that its 12.5%. Now just trying to work out how much I need to put in. I think I am doing this right. I need to make reference to the CYA level.

Coxy.

Also sorry I didn't do the above test right for the Chlorine, I X it by 1 not by 0.2, (Thankyou youtube).

So the Free Chlorine should be 0.6 and the Combined Chlorine = 0.4
 
jblizzle said:
You are correct. IF your CYA is 100ppm, then you need to maintain the FC at 39ppm until the SLAM process is complete.

You use PoolMath to calculate how much bleach is required to achieve a given rise in FC.

I have to urge you to replace another 50% of the water to get the CYA and thus FC levels down to a more reasonable level BEFORE you start the SLAM Process.

BTW, since you got the K-2006 and have a high CYA level which is going to required a high FC level and thus a LOT of drops of the reagent to test for it ... you should order R-0871 refills ASAP!!!

Thanks. Yes it does look like I will have to do this. I will have to order/hire a submersible pump to get this water out of the pool. Not looking forward to how long this will take to refill LOL.

Coxy.
 

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Also, you should be doing the FC and CC test using a 10ml water sample instead of the 25ml sample. This makes each drop 0.5ppm which is plenty of resolution ... and saves your reagent.
 
jblizzle said:
Also, you should be doing the FC and CC test using a 10ml water sample instead of the 25ml sample. This makes each drop 0.5ppm which is plenty of resolution ... and saves your reagent.

So here is my problem. I need to get rid of 50% at least of the water due to the CYA level, this will cost me pump hire which is not cheap not to mention the cost it has already cost me in chems to get rid of the algae. I wanted to paint the pool as the surface needed to be done but was going to wait off season to do this and also upgrade the light to LED.

So do you think I should just close the pool down (yea I know right on Xmas and Summer) and empty the pool all the way so I can paint the pool and redo the lights and in the process change over to SWG. Does this seem logical or am I making this a larger problem than what I am thinking.


Coxy.
 
Clearing up the pool and maintaining it all season with the high CYA is going to be difficult. You know your budget and needs better than I do ;)

You do realize that painting a pool is generally a very short term solution right? only lasting a few years before it needs to be done again.

There is no reason to have to drain the pool to convert to SWG. In fact for a SWG, we recommend 70-80ppm for the CYA, so you would have to replace less water to get down to that ... although still have higher FC levels required for the SLAM process.

Also, you should not have to drain the pool to replace lights, they should lift out onto the deck to allow you to change the bulbs (unless you are planning to pull new wires and put a new fixture in ... although you may be able to do that in the water as well).

Please add your pool details to your signature and location to your profile as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 
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