black spots in pool

It would take more than several minutes of running dry for your pump to suffer any damage.

Since it wouldn't be completely dry anyway, you have plenty of time to check the flow you want to and return to the pump.
 
Thanks Robbieh and duraleigh, I think I figured out my valves today. The pressure gauge on my filter reads about 2 when I think I have the valve bypassing the filter and on recirculation only and about 4 when it's flowing through the filter. Does that seem right?
 
Does that seem right? No. In recirc, the psi should be zero.

In filter position, a normal psi is about 12 but it can vary widely between about maybe 8 psi and 16 psi.

You either have a faulty gauge (very possible....and easy to fix) or you have some valves not set correctly to allow the water to flow through your filter.
 
Its a brand new gauge. My husband just put it on about a week ago. The old one did not work at all. Is that putty on the relief valve possibly NOT AIR TIGHT? Is that causing my pressure at the filter to be so low? Attaching pic labeled with what I think is what. I may have a faulty valve. How would I fix that? When I change the position of the valve that I think is for the floor sweeper it changes the fiter pressure gauge by about 2psi. I'm really confused.
If I have got them figured out correctly, what position SHOULD they be in?
 

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ronipooh said:
Its a brand new gauge. My husband just put it on about a week ago. The old one did not work at all. Is that putty on the relief valve possibly NOT AIR TIGHT? Is that causing my pressure at the filter to be so low? Attaching pic labeled with what I think is what. I may have a faulty valve. How would I fix that? When I change the position of the valve that I think is for the floor sweeper it changes the fiter pressure gauge by about 2psi. I'm really confused.
If I have got them figured out correctly, what position SHOULD they be in?

If the putty on the relief valve was a problem, you'd have a water leak there. You would most likely see water shooting out from it from the pressure, but at a minimum, the area would be constantly wet.

You have a cartridge filter. I don't think it is possible to "recirculate" by changing valve settings with your set-up. Recirculate is typically a feature on a multi-port valve used with a sand or DE filter. It results in the water being returned to the pool with no filtration. It is unusual for there to be a multi-port valve with a cartridge filter, and I don't see one in your pictures. I also don't see a way for the water to go back to the pool without going through your filter first. This is very common with cartridge filters.

Your specific cartridge filter is different from most in that it has both a tank drain port (the one with the spigot on it), and an auxillary drain port. The auxillary drain port is on the back of the filter, and I don't see any pipe there in your pictures. Looks like it might just be plugged? Separately, I agree that you have a waste line that bypasses the filter and dumps the water out of the pool. But for water going back to the pool, it is always going through your filter, and this will register as pressure on your filter gauge.

All that said, your pressure readings seem low. On the other hand, cartridge filters usually have low head. If the water can't bypass the filter, the only other thing that could cause low pressure is that the water is being pumped out of your pool, and you would have noticed that. Since you just replaced the gauge, and it is registering something, it's probably fine. It goes to zero when the pump is off, right?

I can't tell what all of your plumbing does since many of the pipes go to/come from under the ground. There's not much that stays visible. The pipes you labeled main drain and skimmer are definitely coming from the pool and going to the pump, so those sound right. The pipe going into the side of the filter is unfiltered water coming from the pump somehow. It might go through that second valve behind the filter--the one that's not on the waste pipe. That valve is in the "open pipe" position in the picture. The pipe coming out of the front of the filter is carrying filtered water back to the pool, so your labels about the floor system make sense, too.

When you say you set the valves to "recirculate", which did you change from the current posted pictures?


The floor sweeper will change the pressure--that sounds normal.
 
I'm still trying to figure all of this out. I wasn't sure if there was a recirculate or not but since the pressure dropped and I couldn't hear the water swirling through the filter, I wasn't sure if that was what was happening. No matter how I turn the valves my returns are never OFF. Just changes the amount of flow coming out. One way the shallow end are stronger and the other way the deep end returns are stronger. I'm still trying to figure all of this out and hopefully before swimming season comes around. I want to enjoy having a pool.
Since I don't have the air relief valve I can't purge all the air from the filter, so I was wondering if that was causing me a problem. I don't have any leaks on my suction side anymore thank goodness. You guys have helped me figure out and fix that problem.
Thanks for all the help.
 

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CYA is high for a non SWG pool. 50% water change would fix that. The pH test is not valid when FC is higher than 10ppm. Let the FC drop and verify the pH then you need the SLAM process due the high CC.
 
Numbers today
FC 20
CC 0
CH 350
TA 110
CYA 80
PH 8.2
TEMP 66

For the CYA test is that until you can't see the black spot AT ALL or until it's so cloudy its barely visible.
Sorry I just want to be sure I'm doing this right.
Also, it has rained the last couple of days and I did find a dead caterpillar and frog in my pool today. I'm thinking that's the reason for the slight drop in my FC level.
I'm going to put some MA in there right now and get that alkalinity down and pH leveled out hopefully.
Oh and when I clean out my pump basket there is always grit under it. I clean it all put too before I put the strainer basket back in. Today I realized that grit is some of my pool surface. Is this normal or not?
Thanks for all your help.
 
Yes you take the CYA reading when the black dot disappears. Your Cya level is still too high also, if the test was done right. It can be a little tricky. It should be 30-50 for a non SWG pool. One more thing about the CYA test. It's sensitive to water temp. At what temp that is I'm not sure on. You might want to bring the sample inside to get to room temp then do the test.

Your FC is still too high for an accurate PH reading. Your PH will read a false high with FC of 10 or more. I would not do anything to your PH until your FC falls below 10 and then you can get an accurate test for PH.
 
What is your pool surface, and have you felt the grit? What does it look and feel like?

FC will slowly continue to drop, either from organics like the caterpillar and frog, or just from UV when the sun hits the pool. As previously mentioned, you can stop testing pH until FC goes below 10. The TA test is also affected by high FC. It's premature to add anything to adjust pH and TA at this point; you can't tell what they really are. On the chemistry side, you need a good dose of pool owner patience until that FC comes down. If you decide to do a partial drain and refill to address your high CYA, that would also hurry the process along of dropping the FC.
 
danacc said:
What is your pool surface, and have you felt the grit? What does it look and feel like?

My pool surface is concrete/gunite as stated in my signature. Yes I've felt it. I have to use my hand to scoop it out of the bottom of the pump. It feels like super fine gravel or very course sand and it has brown colored tiny pebbles in it that look just like the pool surface.
I should have taken a picture of it before I cleaned it out of there. I will next time.

I already added 22 ounces of MA as recommended by the PoolMath calculator. I didn't know my high Chlorine levels rendered the pH invalid.

When the ground in my yard dries up some I'll do a partial drain. Thanks again
 
Just take this as lesson learned. The PH test was addressed by jblizzle, above my previous post about the PH test being invalid with FC level of 10 or more. If you are unsure about adding any chem's to your pool ask us and wait for a response. We are here to help you. It's all a learning process.
 
Guess I had already forgotten that about the pH because I did read it before. Oh well live and learn. I think I'll reread everything on my thread again in the future before I do anything and wait for ans we rs to my new questions as well.
 

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