Pool pump will not turn off

Welcome to TFP!

You are going to have to give us some info on what pump you have and what other kind of controls you have on your pump. Your timer has a manual override switch that needs to be in the middle position for the timer to work.
 
It's a lennovator pool and spa control system. LG Base PCB PN: 02-2525-P0. Timer is in middle position to run on the clock dip switches, but even if unplugged still runs unless I trip the breaker switch.
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Wires all seems correct, it is as if the timer is being bypassed or overridden by somehow.
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Some additional information: timer worked correctly for a short time (few hours) after resetting circuit breaker, then would not turn off again running continuously until the line power was turned off again. Seems as though a relay or something is tripping to bypass / override the timer. Temperature sensor relay perhaps? Nighttime temperatures are now in mid 40's Farenheit.
 
It is definitely related to the temperature sensor. I disconnected the sensor and it ran correctly for a few hours then ran continuously again. Today I reconnected the temperature sensor and it turned off correctly as soon as it was reconnected. But after a few hours again it started running continuously again. It seems to trip either way. I run the pump at night anyways and live in AZ so freezing is no really a concern. Is there a way to remove the temperature feature and use without the temperature sensor?


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What part of AZ? I'm in chandler and mine has been in freeze protect that last 2 or 3 days. I had to reset the main breaker to fix it. Seems as it was stuck in freeze protect even though the oat was 60*
 
Could be a sticking relay switch.

The electronic part of the timer drives a relay which operates the pump.

When the pump is supposed to be off, according to the timer, but it is seen running, use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to tap the relay casing, observing if this makes the relay switch turn off.

Another way would be to connect some kind of indicator light (a led in series with a resistor maybe) in parallel with the relay coil, to see what kind of signaling is going to the relay which runs the pump.
 
Do you know which relay? K12 far left relay?
It seems to work fine after circuit breaker stays off for a while and restarted. Then it runs fine according to time clock for about one hour then turns on and off continuously or runs continuously.
How are the relays attached to the circuit board? Can they be replaced?
Thanks so much. I am in Chandler, AZ.


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The relay running the pump is probably the one closest to the pump terminals. To be really sure you have to remove the circuit board, turn it upside down and trace the copper path leading to the pump terminals.

The relays are soldered, very easy (for someone who knows what he is doing) to replace and relays are very cheap parts anyway, so if you go this way, just replace all of them.

If you do replace all of them, keep the old ones, they are not all bad and they might be used in an emergency or for testing reasons etc.


All of the above is valid if the pump relay is in fact sticking, but there are other causes that could result in a malfunction like the one you are having, even a bad (aka "cold") solder joint could cause something like that.



Anyway, relays are designed to be very cheap, they can last only so much time, and once you see the inside of them, you probably won't believe that we trust this cr@p part to run equipment worth hundreds or thousands times more.

In fact, for more serious applications, critical relays are placed on bases, so they can be removed / replaced quickly and easily, without soldering anything when they fail, and yes, we know for a fact that given enough time, they will fail.
 
Anyone have any experience replacing the temperature sensor? how to remove old one without dropping inside PVC pipe (seems to be glued to PVC pipe with PVC Cement. Is it supposed to be installed that way? I would hate to replace the entire piping if I can drill it out or extract another way.
Thanks in Advance!
 
They're normally clamped onto the pipe with some silicone sealant applied under them. They're pretty easy to peel off if they're installed like that. I've never seen one installed using solvent cement. A pic might help.
 
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