Evansville, IN

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

dmartin

0
Nov 24, 2013
8
Evansville, IN
Hello to all,

Just getting started on turning a large swamp (and yes it's about this color) into what should be a beautiful indoor pool. We just purchased the home and the pool has not had any maintenance for at least one and a half years. I figure the one thing going for me at the moment is that the water is cold and is retarding the algae growth, and I should not loose as much chlorine to evaporation doing this at this time of year.

I will start the clean up process next week as I was waiting on a few parts and pieces for some repairs and a TF101 XL test kit.

Still trying to figure out what I will be using for a chlorine source for the shock/slam to get this thing cleaned up. I have searched high and low and I cannot find liquid chlorine other than Bleach. Anyone know what strength Bleach Sam's Club carries, 8.25% or is it higher?

See you all in the forums
 
Welcome to the forum!

Take a look at Pool School, link in the upper right corner of every page. Almost all the info you need is up there. Read reas read while you're waiting for your kit. It will take some time to absorb it all.

The short version for you is that you probably want to use bleach or a SWG. Being and indoor pool, you will want to keep your CYA around 30 (overdoing it with dry chlorine sources would be bad), and with a plaster finish you will want to be aware of your CH levels (overdoing it with calhypo would be bad as well). If you didn't understand that, you will after reading pool school.

Finally, if it's a cloudy pea green color, you will have to SLAM it to get rid of the algae. I'll give you one guess as to where you can find the relevant article....

Again, welcome, and keep posting questions as they come up.
 
Welcome to TFP !!
Bummer about the swamp,but it can be fixed with a good SLAMming.
Yes regular house hold bleach is 8.25%. It will work just fine. Congrats on getting the TF100 kit. There is no better IMO.
Any questions when you start the SALM just ask. Lots of good people here to help ya out. Spend sometime reading the SLAM instructions and follow them to the T.
Good luck and enjoy the forum !!
 
Welcome. I lived in Evansville many years ago (I'd like to say a lifetime or two ago). I'm a graduate of U of E (Engineering). Nice little midwest City and I have fond memories of the area.

There is a wealth of information here and you should find it to be very helpful. It does take a while to absorb though and I still learn a few tidbits by reading and participating in these forums (I've owned and maintained a pool for many years).

Congrats on your new purchase!!!!!
 
There is no UV or ozone on this pool. I was considering doing a ozone system so as to keep the chlorine levels at an absolute minimum. Not really big on the idea of using salt / SWG. At some point I will be using the pool for private SCUBA classes as well, so I will want it sanitized well but not run the higher concentrations of chlorine.
 
During warmer months, you'll be able to find liquid chlorine at Menard's and Rural King. Watch for their sales. May through Labor Day is about all the time you'll be able to find it though.
 
UV or ozone will not let you use lower chlorine levels. That is a myth for residential pools. The lower chlorine requirement from ozone only occurs under conditions of high bather-load such as commercial/public pools or for residential spas that are used every day or two.

For an indoor residential pool, the purpose of UV or ozone is to help control chloramines and possibly urea since there is no UV from sunlight that would otherwise break down some chloramines and break down chlorine in to hydroxyl radicals that are powerful oxidizers.

When you use at least a small amount of CYA, such as 20 ppm, then the active chlorine level is very low -- even with 4 ppm FC and 20 ppm CYA, the active chlorine level is the equivalent of only 0.2 ppm FC with no CYA. You cannot compare this with typical indoor commercial/public pools that have no CYA in the water. Their 1-2 ppm FC levels are 5-10 times higher in active chlorine levels and react with skin, swimsuits and hair 5-10 times faster, outgas chlorine 5-10 times faster, corrode metal faster, etc. My wife personally experienced this difference between an indoor commercial pool over the winter with 1-2 ppm FC and no CYA where her swimsuits would need to get replaced (elasticity gets shot) after just one winter season while in our own outdoor residential pool over the summer with 3-6 ppm FC and 40 ppm CYA the swimsuits would last for years. The differences were also noticeable on her skin and hair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply