Pool in the Bahamas

Nov 20, 2013
32
Good Day All!

I've been stalking this and other forums and resources for a while. I currently live in the Bahamas and purchased a home which came with a pool, unfortunately or not I have not yet decided! The house is 10 years old and I assume the pool is too. I'll amend this to my signature but here it is:

15'x30'x4' avg, 13,500 gal, IG plaster, 1 HP Hayward pump, Hayward EC65/75 sqft cartridge filter, 1.5" piping, pool girl on occasion

When we put the deposit on the house, the homeowners stopped the pool and yard maintenance and wham everything went green. We got them to resume it until we officially had the keys. It's been a PITA with different renovations, much worse than we thought one project leads into the next one, we've had a couple of algae blooms since then and it's been about 5 months.

A little history here - the Bahamas is one of those places where your grandaddy showed you what to do and you do that, no learning or trying to do things better. So I'm pretty sure every pool company here started from the one or two here decades ago. Their basic solution is the tablets, shock it once a week, throw granules in, and scrub and vacuum twice a week. That's about $200 a month for our pool. Only thing they balance is the chlorine and PH, and not sure how. So we stopped it and took it over ourselves.

We've got good and getting it back, changing the DE, I even cleaned and acid washed the filter recently. The pool looks good now, needs a vacuuming but we'll get there.

[attachment=1:2431h160]13848693007590.jpg[/attachment:2431h160]

Doing a lot of research I learned about CYA and trichlor in tablets, shock, pellets, etc. I did a test, it way maxed out the CYA test kit. We drained about a third and refilled but have yet to retest, however the chlorine is being more effecting and needing less often. We've stopped using the tablets and shock and are using liquid pool bleach, 10%. We have the HTH 6-Way test kit but are out of CYA reagent, which I'll get this week.

So short of having the full test results available, which I'll follow up with, here's what I want to do, in no particular order:

1) I have purchased a Jandy APURE35PLG AquaPure Ei Water Chlorinator to install and obviously add salt to the pool. Since we're using the liquid bleach now, this should be bringing our salt level up a bit anyways? We have Solar Salt for water softeners, will this be ok? I checked the pool companies and they few I checked didn't have it.

2) Add boric acid - while we don't have the 20 Mule Borax or anything similar here, we do have 1lb bottles of 100% boric acid for use in roach/ant control. Retails about $3.50/lb - is this what to use?

3) No drain acid wash - we'd like to do this ourselves using muriatic acid.

Primary question - in addition to those above - what order should I do these in? I was thinking to do the acid wash, then install the chlorine generator and get that figured out, then the boric acid.

Thanks for your help and the wonderful resource here!
 
Welcome to tfp, islandflyer :wave:

islandflyer said:
Since we're using the liquid bleach now, this should be bringing our salt level up a bit anyways?
It brings it up a little, but you will have to raise it a majority of the way with the solar salt.

islandflyer said:
We have Solar Salt for water softeners, will this be ok?
That will work, but make sure it is just plain solar salt near 99% and does not have "additives".

islandflyer said:
2) Add boric acid - while we don't have the 20 Mule Borax or anything similar here, we do have 1lb bottles of 100% boric acid for use in roach/ant control. Retails about $3.50/lb - is this what to use?
That sounds right, though the price is a little higher than buying in bulk here in the US (but maybe not for the Bahamas though). What is your reason for wanting to add borates to your pool?

islandflyer said:
3) No drain acid wash - we'd like to do this ourselves using muriatic acid.
How bad is your scaling problem? I can't see it in your picture.

islandflyer said:
Primary question - in addition to those above - what order should I do these in? I was thinking to do the acid wash, then install the chlorine generator and get that figured out, then the boric acid.
If you do the acid wash, do that first, then I would do salt, and once you decide if you need it, then the borates. Please post the last results form your hth kit: TC, ph, TA, CH, and cya (when you get more reagent). Also, It would be good if you can purchase the FAS-DPD chlorine test kit so that you can measure FC and CC, though I am not sure you can order from tftestkits.net in the Bahamas.
 
I was adding borates to help control algae, clarify and sparkle the water. I was also thinking the no drain acid wash to kill any algae left in the plaster and to try and remove some staining. How would you define scaling ie what to look for? Ill update with what I can test this afternoon. Thanks! Ps things run basically double in cost here. I would probably have to get that kit next time in USA or ship it in.

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Forget the borates until you have everything else well under control. They are optional and really the main benefit is the pH buffering if your pH is currently rising too fast for your liking.

Calcium scale is a roughness that forms within the pool. Generally an acid wash is the quickest way to remove it.
 
TC 0.5
PH 7.5
TA 100 ppm
CH 750 ppm
CYA 120?

I added after 96oz 10% bleach after tests.

Will upload scaling photos at home too.

Had to bump the pump. Assuming will have to do another DE change soon. Its taken a few of these so far!

Thanks!

Lee

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
 
That does kind of look like calcium scaling ... and with a CH at 750ppm, that is not too surprising if the pH was ever allowed to get above 8 for awhile.

You ever test your tap water for CH, pH, and TA?

With the high CH and high CYA, likely you would be best to replace a good large chunk of the water (although not necessarily all at the same time depending on your ground water level).
 
Thanks - I was thinking of replacing one third of the water again and retesting.

Will running the water through a standard house filter remove any calcium hardness going in? If so I can rig up something to do that.

I will also check the incoming water and let you know.

Thanks again!
 
Many members use a house water softener to for their top-off water to reduce the amount of harness being added. But, they are not designed to handle continuous major water replacement/fill.
 

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No ... from that link: "filters scale, rust particles, sand, dirt, & silt"
It is not going to pull calcium out of solution.

To lower the CH in the fill water you need to use a water softener or reverse osmosis.
 
That's not going to filter out calcium in solution, either.

Like Jason said, to lower the CH in the fill water, you need to use a water softener or reverse osmosis. Neither of those is going to be inexpensive.
 
Funnily enough we got to start all over again a few months ago...left the hose in the pool over a long weekend while we were away....$800 in water later...

We have switched to the salt system and it was working well. The DE filter got away from us and stopped the flow while we were away (seeing a trend here...) and the algae came back. So just did a SLAM. Seems to be holding around 24ppm FC now.

Once we're back to normal, I'd like to do an in-pool acid wash and add borates.
 
don't think i'll do the acid wash but will add borates.

Seems to be clearing up and FC is up overnight with pump running and SWG on (turned it off, just read it hurts it), will let it stay high today and do the overnight test tonight. It is raining on and off unfortunately, will the effect it significantly?
 
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