Liquidator install w/o drilling?

[bf1967]

I ordered my liquidator and it came today. I have an AG pool with PVC plumbing so that's not an issue. Rather than drill into the existing line, I would rather cut it and put a pvc tee in. Has anyone done this or would there be a problem doing the install this way?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[JasonLion]

That should be just fine. You will of course need the appropriate adapter(s) to connect the tubing, but that is simple enough.

 

[Sabot]

Have you looking at installing an adapter on your pump strainer basket drain? I wish I have thought about that before drilling.

 

[revstriker]

I was actually able to install my LQ without drilling on my IGP. I used the pump drain plug as Sabot indicated for the output line, and was able to convert the connection for my old inline chlorinator for the input line. What I like is that it gives me the ability to quickly convert back if I ever needed/wanted to.

Off Topic question to Mike: 19K by any chance?

 

[Sabot]

Yep

 

[revstriker]

Yep

Me too! Small World.

 

[bf1967]

Have you looking at installing an adapter on your pump strainer basket drain? I wish I have thought about that before drilling.

That's an interesting idea. I'll have to check that out.

Bob

 

[Sabot]

I do like the "T" idea as well. It will allow me to remove the adapters and replace them with a plug. I plan to remove and store the units in the garage during the most bitter of the winter months.

 

[bf1967]

I do like the "T" idea as well. It will allow me to remove the adapters and replace them with a plug. I plan to remove and store the units in the garage during the most bitter of the winter months.

I bought a couple tees with slip fit on the top/bottom and a thread at the tee. That should make it pretty easy to disconnect come winter.

Bob

 

[jwfrank]

I am going to use the pump drain for the output connection.

Could someone please post a picture of the T fitting for the input connection? I am puzzled how to easily take the 1 1/2 inch PVC down to the 3/8" needed for the tubing

Thanks

 

[keithw]

I don't have a picture but I can describe the method. Get a T where the LQ side is the smallest that you can get. Usually they sell a 1 1/2" T where the center opening is smaller, like 3/4". Then you need to reduce this down further with a cap / adapter so that you have a female threaded hole. Basically the same opening that you have for the pump drain plug. Then you use the same brass adapter that you are going to use in the pump.

And make sure when you hook it up that you understand the output goes into the pump and the input comes after the pump. Seems backwards but that is how the LQ works.

I did some pump room rework this winter and am now using the pump drainplug for my output as well. Seems to work just fine.

If anyone finds a suitable replacement for the LQ float assembly, please let us know. They will break down from chemical use after a few years and the replacements are $32.00 per.

 

[jwfrank]

Thanks, Keith. What you wrote is logical.

1/ Are you sure brass is OK to use for this setup? I though i read in one of the many posts in another thread that because of the chlorine concentration, brass should not be used.

2/ Does it make a difference if the input tube to LQ is connected before or after the multi valve MV on the tube exiting from filter ? I suspect not since I have read that there is advice from Hasa saying this tube can actually be closer to the pump BEFORE the filter

 

[keithw]

A. Good question on the brass, I did some searching around on the site and didn't find anything definitive either way. I see people mentioning the use of brass connectors in a number of places without any one warning against it. I do see one post where someone mentions swapping out a brass connector for a plastic because of corrosion issues. I will have to see if that happens in my setup. My pump room is enclosed so we'll see.

B. When I spoke to a HASA tech many moons ago, he told me that the closer to the pump you move the connection, the stronger the input flow would be. He mentioned that the preferred connection was directly after the filter. In some posts, some have had issues with not having enough flow to adequately chlorinate the pool. So moving the connection closer to the pump might improve that situation. If your LQ is above pool water level, I would recommend removing both check valves from the LQ setup. They are not really necessary there except in rare instances where you pump loses complete prime. Not really an answer on your specific question but it is all that I really know about it.

 

[Poolidiot]

I am going to use the pump drain for the output connection.

Could someone please post a picture of the T fitting for the input connection? I am puzzled how to easily take the 1 1/2 inch PVC down to the 3/8" needed for the tubing

Thanks

 

[estogo]

I was actually able to install my LQ without drilling on my IGP. I used the pump drain plug as Sabot indicated for the output line, and was able to convert the connection for my old inline chlorinator for the input line. What I like is that it gives me the ability to quickly convert back if I ever needed/wanted to.

Off Topic question to Mike: 19K by any chance?

That's a good idea. I currently have an Ozinator and I believe the air from it is building up in my inline chlorinator preventing water from flowing effecitvely.

Is there some sort of "adapter" or something that would allow me to unscrew the (useless) inline chlorinator and hook up a bleach delivery system? (Is this how the liquidator interfaces with most systems? or do most drill?)

New to this concept, google search is how I found this thread....just sayin...

 

[JasonLion]

The kind of connectors used on the Liquidator are the same as the connectors used on out of line chlorinators. In-line chlorinators are connected in a different way, so you will not be able to reuse an in-line chlorinator connection.

 

[TRW]

I have noticed that the liquidator inserts the CL before the equipment i.e. pump, filter & heater, is there any concern with corrosion issues? Also my in-line chlorinator is plumb after all the equipment. I might have missed something here so I apologize if that is the case. I just purchased the liquidator and would like to run it through the pump basket.

Tim

 

[JohnT]

I have noticed that the liquidator inserts the CL before the equipment i.e. pump, filter & heater, is there any concern with corrosion issues? Also my in-line chlorinator is plumb after all the equipment. I might have missed something here so I apologize if that is the case. I just purchased the liquidator and would like to run it through the pump basket.

Tim

When I first installed my Liquidator, I wondered about the chlorine level in the equipment. I don't recall the exact numbers, but it was only a couple of ppm higher than the pool water. Nothing to be concerned about.