My heater is cracked by freeze. What should I do now?

[scott_home]

Hi all,

I recently re-plumbed my pool that had set empty for 2 years. When I started to let water go through the system, water dripped out from a hairline crack at the heater manifold where the 2" pipes connect. I am very certain that the crack was caused by a hard freeze sometime ago because my above ground pipe and valve also cracked.

A new heater is about $2000 and the part is about $300. If this is the only part I need to change, I will replace it. However, I just don't know if other components may also be damaged by the freeze or sitting idle for so long. Does anyone have any experience on heaters damaged by freeze?


Thanks,

Scott

 

[poolsupplysales]

The water goes through the manifold into the heat exchanger then returns so those are the only places you will find a water leak. If the leak is not bad I would turn it on check to see if it works then estimate the cost for repairs.

 

[ps0303]

What brand/model heater?

 

[scott_home]

It is in my signature. I think the material is some sort of fiberglass, so I am going to take it apart and patch it with West End epoxy from the inside. Hopefully it should fix the crack.

 

[X-PertPool]

You can try to repair/replace the part that is broken and then pressure test the heater to see if any more leaks exist

 

[scott_home]

How do you pressure test a gas tester? Is it something I can do myself?

 

[X-PertPool]

Not easily, you have to plumb up a pressure gauge with the ability to send water from a garden hose into the system. they sell one at leaktools.com to give you an idea.

 

[diyindux]

You can test it pretty easily with some pvc pipe and fittings. You will need to cap the outlet then connect a 90 on the inlet with a length of pipe sticking straight up and a threaded cap. Install a Schrader valve (for adding air) on the cap, fill the unit with water leaving about a foot of air in the line, thread on the cap and pressurize it with a bicycle pump. If the pressure holds, you're good.

The only tricky part will be getting the unions to connect to the heater.

Here's a better price on the parts: http://www.radishandlettuce.com/Pentair ... 7Aodmx0Aiw

 

[ps0303]

It is in my signature. I think the material is some sort of fiberglass, so I am going to take it apart and patch it with West End epoxy from the inside. Hopefully it should fix the crack.

Sorry about that I usually don't read too many signatures.

As others have said you can try and epoxy it but many times it doesn't work for any decent period of time. The worst thing is if the heat exchanger is damaged you may not know right away. If it has a slow leak it could a long time for the can to fill with water before it finally stops working.

 

[Pool Clown]

Remove a manifold flange bolt on the heater. Remove the lowest bolt (closest to the ground), if water begins to come out, you need a new heat exchanger. Unless of course the manifold is the part that is cracked, that is relatively easy to replace. Can you physically see where the water is leaking from? Or is it coming from somewhere you cannot see, like from under the heater?