Swimpure 20 replacement T-cell

Nov 10, 2013
5
I have a Swimpure 20 with r1.40 with T-cell-5 that was installed in 2009. For the past few weeks the salt levels have been displayed incorrectly and it shows very low level and since no chlorine was produced I had algae; I have been resetting the salt level by going off - auto and then based on the reading from Pool Medic place I then go to super - auto to set the level; I went to pool medic and they tested the T-cell and it has officially failed; I called Hayward for advise on replacement cell and the technician who was "newbee" advised I need to replace this with T-cell-5 which is a hard part to get; I went to pinch-a-penny website and they say I can use either T-cell-5 or 15. Need guidance as I have read in the forum that if Tcell15 is used its current draw could blow the circuit board. Appreciate the guidance.
http://store.pinchapenny.com/product/ha ... anty?s=204
I have photos of the panel and the serial number if that is required.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

How big is your pool? I am pretty sure your system will work with either the T-5 or the T-15. I would likely get the T-15 as the cell should last longer.

Where did you read that the larger Cell would blow the circuit board?
 
You can def use a t-15 on this system. You juts have to switch the cell type on the board itself. go unitll you see the T-5 then simply go to super chlorinate and back down to auto and it will change every time you do this. keep repeating until you get to t-15. The same boards are used for all of the swimpure, haywards just different settings between diff cells. I know this cause I am a certified warranty center for Hayward.
 
Guys, thank you and apologize for the delay in response as I was traveling. I opened the front panel and this is an old Motherboard from Goldline control PN#G1-066012C-1 Rev C and the software version is R1.40. This version of hardware has an option on the motherboard to either select T-5 or T-15(need to solder the 2 points). It seems this is the only option. Appreciate the guidance.
 
James, PCB does not show the jumper, all I see the square block showing TC5 - no jumper (blank rectangle) and TC15 - with jumper (solid white rectangle); based on the explanation I believe I need to solder couple of standoffs and a jumper if I can find them or I will solder a wire across the 2 points.; hope this is OK
 
I took the photo at an angle and have marked it with a circle; I see the jumper for Master/Slave and underneath that you will see the one on the motherboard for T-5/T-15. Appreciate the confirmation so that I can purchase the T-15 rather then T-5 which is what was installed which is smaller for my pool; I had to have it running at 70+ percent since day 1.
 

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