FC HIGH Need to lower SWG??

[gobblerhuntr]

ph 7.6
FC 18
CC 3
TA 70
CH 240
CYA 50

thinking i need to lower SWG but it is on 60% and i can't seem to get it to go down by pressing the lower button, it will flash if i hold it in and go to 40 but right back to 60 a minute later

do i need to something else?

 

[zea3]

Which SWG do you have?

 

[gobblerhuntr]

intelichlor

 

[jblizzle]

Not sure about the SWG issue, but if that CC is correct, you need to SLAM the pool.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

In my ph tester the yellow side was orange which I consider off scale. Then thee Cc test showed up 3. I am closing pool within next week or so. Do I still need to SLAM it?

 

[257WbyMag]

Well, you can SLAM now and then you may not have to do it later. Or, you can close in a week and SLAM when you open.

 

[ping]

That test is not accurate enough to say what the FC and CC's are. I'm taking it as those were just guesses on your part.

We can't say for sure if you need to SLAM or not. Accurate test results is what we need to know. Just guessing, I would leave the chlorine high for now and close it when it is cold enough.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

The tests I did with test kit. I wasn't guessing. I am going to test again tomorrow.

 

[jblizzle]

So you have a kit with the FAS-DPD? That was not clear in your posts.

 

[JamesW]

Do you have automation?

 

[gobblerhuntr]

FAS-DPD??

My kit came from a link on this forum. A TFP-100 I think is the number.

Yes I have a pentair automation system.

 

[JamesW]

You change the Intellichlor percentage via the automation, not the cell panel.

If you have used non-chlorine shock, that could account for the cc level.

 

[danacc]

The TF-100 has 2 different tests for chlorine. One is the OTO test which uses drops to turn the water different shades of yellow to determine chlorine level. The other is the FAS-DPD test where you use a powder to turn the water pink, and then you count drops to determine the chlorine level. Which did you use to test FC? Which for CC?

 

[gobblerhuntr]

I always do all test in the kit and record them. The one with the ph test,OTO, kit usually shows up light yellow and I match it to the appropriate number, the other is with the powder and that one I consider more accurate as it doesn't make me guess the color, that is where I got the FC of 18 and CC of 3.

Is this the correct way?

 

[gobblerhuntr]

I haven't added any shock.

 

[linen]

I always do all test in the kit and record them. The one with the ph test,OTO, kit usually shows up light yellow and I match it to the appropriate number, the other is with the powder and that one I consider more accurate as it doesn't make me guess the color, that is where I got the FC of 18 and CC of 3.

Is this the correct way?

Yes. The 3 ppm of CC is telling you need to continue/do the SLAM process either now or in the spring.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

Ok think I will back the chlorination down to 20% and close pool in a week or so then SLAM it in the spring. Sound good?

 

[JamesW]

3 ppm CC seems somewhat high unless there is a reason. If the pool has had high use, then that could explain the high CC level. If the chlorine went to zero, then it's possible that bacteria converted some CYA to ammonia. However, that's pretty rare.

If either of these things didn't happen, then I would suspect test error.

Either way, I think that I would Slam now to resolve the issue, and not leave it for later.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

Pool has had no use in 7 weeks and haven't seen 0 chlorine. Gonna test again tomorrow and see what that shows.

Same results and I will SLAM it. Haven't ever SLAMed before so I will have to read up on it.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

Would leaves in the pool have anything to do with it. They are falling here and driving me nuts. I am getting them out but they keep coming