New Build - Mesa, AZ

utztat

0
May 19, 2013
35
Hi everyone. I am starting this thread to document my pool build and get suggestions and feedback along the way. This is an owner build, in fact, I plan on doing electric and tile myself. I am currently waiting on permits and getting bids from sub-contractors. Here are the pool specs. I am still open to suggestions on equipment, plumbing, materials, etc.

Size
- 22x41
- 130 ft perimeter
- 700 sq ft
- 29k gallons
- 3.5 ft to 8.5 ft deep
- 700 sq ft of deck (been going back an forth on the amount of deck, it is turning out to be the most expensive part of the pool)

Features
- 2 bubblers on tanning shelf
- 18" sheer decent
- jumping platform (I had this same design on last pool and I liked it a lot better than a diving board)

Materials
- plaster interior (may change this to pebblesheen for $2k more)
- Pavers or travertine deck
- Leaning toward tile on the jumping platform, but may change to rock or?

Equipment
- Pentair VS pump
- Pentair Cartridge filter
- Baracuda MX8 cleaner
- Aqualink Z4 automation
- 3 Pentair LED Globrites

Plumbing
- 2 skimmers each on a 2" line
- 2.5" main drain
- 2" looped returns
- auto filler
- 2" lines on bubblers and sheer
- 2" vac line

[attachment=0:1aoqxwvv]Harris_Pool_Small.jpg[/attachment:1aoqxwvv]
 

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Here is another rendering from Pool Studio and a list of my current questions.

[attachment=0:3hgxope2]Harris_Pool_002_small.jpg[/attachment:3hgxope2]

Questions:

1. I am planning on plumbing each skimmer and the main drain all the way to the pad and putting a valve on each of them. I want to do this to control the flow from each. I have a few pine trees close to the pool and I want to be able to dial in the skimmers. A couple of plumbing bids i got have indicated they would tie the main drain to one of the skimmers and they said I still can control flow at the skimmer. What are your opinions of this? Are main drains still typically tied to the skimmer?

2. I have read a lot of opinions on using the Globrites as the only pool lights. I think I can get more even light with 3 globrites than I can with 2 full size lights for my L-shaped pool. Also, I want to avoid dealing with brass conduit since I am doing the electric myself. Anyone have experience with using just Globrites in their pool? Which leads me to...

3. Water bonding. I am not having any metal in this pool, so I may need a separate water bonding device. I have read some opinions that the rebar and gunite act as the water bond and some say no. I have read the relevant sections of NEC and I can see it both ways. Does anyone have experience with this issue in Arizona? I suppose I will ask the inspector what they want to see. If they want a separate water bond, does anyone have experience with any specific product or method to do this.

4. Phoenix Pavers. Does anyone have these? Are they rough on the feet and do they come in a color light enough that we wont burn up in the summer?

Speaking of decking, it is really expensive. In particular I am surprised how expensive lace concrete decking is. I am seeing $8 a sqft, which is about the same cost as travertine. The least expensive option I have seen so far is pavers, but I question how hot they get and how rough they are, particularly at the paver edges. I am waiting on a bid for Artistic Pavers. I had some of those in my last pool and I like them, but we will see on the cost.
 

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:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

1. Do as you stated, all separate runs. Connecting the floor to the skimmer does not give as good of control. However, it is very common for builders to connect them like that ... just not the best solution.

2. No idea
3. Talking to the inspector seems like a good idea.
4. No idea

I think pavers can be pretty rough. I recall one thread where all the edges were sharp. Although with a tumbled paver that is likely not the case. If I did not already have concrete with Kool deck coating, I would probably get travertine.

There are a few threads about the MX8 having issues if you have any palm trees near the pool. Wraps up in the turbine. The Pool Cleaner also has very good reviews if you certainly want a suction cleaner.

There is really no reason to have the main drain on 2.5" pipe since you will have 3 separate suction lines.

What is your plan for chlorinating the pool?
 
Jason - thanks for the information, I will make sure they are separate runs.

Mark - What color are you going to use? The most common colors seem to be fairly dark brown which seem like they would get really hot. I am definitely interested in your feedback once you have them in. Thanks.
 
spanky99l said:
Did you build it in Pool Studio or a pool builder design and your doing the owner/build route?

I signed up for Pool Studio and did the design myself. There was a bit of a learning curve, but it was pretty easy. I think I will have the Pool Studio subscription for 2 months and then I will cancel it, so the total cost is under $200.
 
Pre-grade:

The excavation company expects a clean dirt area, with no landscaping, to start with. So if your yard has stuff in it already you must do a pre-grade. The excavation company wanted $1 a square foot to remove my grass and the top 4" of soil, plus more to remove the 200 sqft of concrete. Instead I asked my dad to come help with the pre-grade since he has the equipment.

The hardest part was finding a place to dump concrete and soil. If I had to pay full price at the dump it would have been very expensive. I finally found a place close to my house that charged by the load instead of the ton for inert materials.

My plans required some corrections so I had to resubmit them to the city. So it looks like it will be a couple more weeks until the excavation.

Here are some pictures of the pregrade.

[attachment=2:3pv4dpyz]20131109_103726.jpg[/attachment:3pv4dpyz]

[attachment=1:3pv4dpyz]20131109_125642.jpg[/attachment:3pv4dpyz]

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duraleigh said:
Your prep work looks very professional. You're getting a great start! :goodjob:


Thank you.

I finally got my permit today. It took 5 weeks. Part of that was my fault as I had some minor errors on my plan. But they required 10 working days (they don't work Friday so that is 2.5 weeks). On the tenth day they told me I needed to make corrections, which took 5 minutes on my part. Then the clock starts over when you resubmit, so another 2.5 weeks. It seems excessive to me, but since I can't swim until May anyway it didn't bother me too much.

I am in the process of scheduling layout and excavation now.
 

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The excavation is scheduled for Wednesday or Thursday. The layout was done on Saturday. Here are some pictures:

[attachment=2:2uv553bh]20131207_141034.jpg[/attachment:2uv553bh]

[attachment=1:2uv553bh]20131207_141042.jpg[/attachment:2uv553bh]

[attachment=0:2uv553bh]20131207_141054.jpg[/attachment:2uv553bh]

I need to choose a decking material before the excavation because the pool elevation depends on that. I am having a hard time deciding. I really like how pavers look and they happen to be the least expensive option as well. For anyone that has regular concrete pavers, do you regret getting them. Are they a lot hotter than lace acrylic? I am mostly worried about how hot they will be and how the coping feels when you are sitting on the edge of the pool, and how they feel walking on them barefoot. Basically, can you walk on them after splashing a little water on there or what?

Also, I like Artistic Pavers, but I can't seem to get anyone to give me a bid on them so I am not sure how much they cost. Similar to travertine, or less?

Thanks
 

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For AZ travertine pavers are the best option. They are fine with water and are cooler than any other material in the sun. Cool decking would be a good second option, but the finish tends to come off when you slide chairs across it. Brick pavers are the WORST option for Az...they are so hott in the summer you will actually burn yourself on them.
 
I just wanted to add to the conversation that I think dark colored Phoenix Pavers are -very- hot on the bare feet. In general I've always tried to avoid or minimize the use of pavers here in southern AZ unless the site is very well drained. With the preponderence of expansive soils that we have here I've found that you may be chasing grade changes and/or some buckling over time with pavers.....
 
danjaymor said:
I just wanted to add to the conversation that I think dark colored Phoenix Pavers are -very- hot on the bare feet. In general I've always tried to avoid or minimize the use of pavers here in southern AZ unless the site is very well drained. With the preponderence of expansive soils that we have here I've found that you may be chasing grade changes and/or some buckling over time with pavers.....


Thanks for the comments on pavers. I am in north Mesa and I have not heard of expansive soil being a problem here. Do you tend to recommend poured concrete then instead of any type of paver?
 
Here are some pictures of the excavation. This is day two.

[attachment=2:il5t5z1a]20131213_073004.jpg[/attachment:il5t5z1a]

In this one you can see the giant palm tree root balls they had to remove before they could start the main dig. The are sitting behind the pine trees in the background.

[attachment=1:il5t5z1a]20131213_072952.jpg[/attachment:il5t5z1a]

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utztat said:
Thanks for the comments on pavers. I am in north Mesa and I have not heard of expansive soil being a problem here. Do you tend to recommend poured concrete then instead of any type of paver?

I had one home at Power and McDowell and my present home is close to Signal Butte and Broadway. Unfortunately our soil does not handle moisture well, and I'm fairly sure that it's pretty much the case throughout the valley. I know places like Queen Creek are worse than most, but our overall soil does not behave well when damp.

In my opinion yes, poured slabs with a reinforcing mesh perform better than pavers. The paver guys may disagree with me, but we also have a pretty darn good quality of cement down here. Don't get me wrong, I love the look of pavers, but you can also get some pretty neat decorative coatings for cement slabs......

I think pavers can work well for pathway type material (narrow walkways), but looking at your pool deck you've got some decent sized decking areas and I'm not sure they would work well overall......

The one thing I can definitively say is that the pavers will be quite hot on the bare feet in July, and you'll want to keep the flip flops nearby!
 
They finished the dig on day 2.

[attachment=2:3v1b0zj2]20131213_113449.jpg[/attachment:3v1b0zj2]

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