Add Sodium Light on with bizarre sodium test

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C

cbrown91

0
Sep 20, 2013
34
Bakersfield California
Hi All,

I have just taken ownership of my new house and my pool. My pool specs are in the signature and below are my measurements

FC 19
TC 19
PH 8
CY 80
CH 660
TA 90
Filter P 17

I have noticed that my SWG is having a light on mentioning "add salt". Tried to measure salt PPM but my test seems to indicate my pool has no salt (I do not see a white strip at all). I tasted some salt in the water but that is it. I have included a figure of the test strips which are the Aquacheck brand. I am going to add salt but I would greatly appreciate it if you could let me know if I am doing the salt measurement wrong? I followed the instructions very carefully.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Chris
 

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Hi All,
ok I have come to realize after some more testing that my salt concentration is actually very high maybe 7200PPM. A couple of questions:

1. The temperature here in Bakersfield, CA, has been around 55F and the ML2-24 manual mentions that if you are below 65 the add salt light may turn on and the generator may not really produce much. Is this what I am facing here. When the pump runs the amber light is on for the output and pressing the output level or super production level do not make a difference.

2. Does such high level of salt hurt the SWG? Specially the one above. The manufacturer mentions 4000PPM or higher.

3. If I have to lower the salt level and get rid of some water (I also need to lower my calcium level), how do I generally do this. I know how to back flush the sand filter, however, I am assuming that is not the way to get rid of the water. How does one go about doing this. I can try to include a picture of my equipment if this helps.

Again thx a bunch.

Chris
 
Glad you figured out that your salt is actually very high, and didn't add more salt. Do you know how it got that high to begin with? How long have you owned the house?

1. The temp could certainly be why you're reading low salt. Scaling on the cell plates will also cause a low salt reading.

2. I'm don't know if that high a salt level will hurt that particular swg, but it certainly isn't good for it. Since you need to lower the CH anyway I'd suggest draining some water. However, it would be wise to test the CH of your fill water as you may not be helping yourself if it's really high too. You would be better off having low CH water trucked in if that's the case.

3. If your sand filter has a multiport valve it should have a waste setting. That's how you get rid of water without running it through your filter.
 
Thanks for the message,

1. I just took ownership of the house yesterday. The owners were using a pool guy who used to put tablets in the pool and I am assuming the combination of that and the pool person having no clue what he is doing might have increased the salt concentration (him adding salt). I know the SWG was working because when we inspected the tool 45 days ago it was. I have noticed a lot of scaling on the plates though so I will try to also clean that.

2. The good news is that everything else is normal (aside from the high CH).

3. The sand filter has a port. It is the type you push in for the back flush. Is there then another position that makes it not back flush? Like do you I pull up or something? I will try to send the model number.

Thx a bunch.
 
How did you get those test results?

1. If you can see scaling, the cell definitely needs cleaning.

2. Can you test your fill water to see what the CH is?

3. That's a slide valve, and it doesn't have a waste setting. Is there a hose spigot or other valve on the discharge of the pump that could be used to drain some water?
 
That SWG needs a minimum 4,000 ppm salt level and will operate upto 13,000 ppm. Having a 7,000 ppm salt level should not be a problem for that unit. Having that high of salt level in the pool is another question for the rest of the pool.

What is the temperature of the water? The SWG will give a salt error with temps 65 and below.
 
Thx again.

1. I used a TF100 kit to come up with all those values. I had bought it since I wanted to be ready to go. The test strips for the salt came from the Aqua check strips I ordered with the TF-100.

2. Yes I will do so and report back ASAP.

3. I have attached a number of pics. I will try to attach a better one if needed. So I have the two black valves that control water flow from spa to the pool i believe. There are two red valves one looks to be on the pipe that controls the back wash. Finally there is a black valve that seems to control the flow between the skimmer and pool.
 

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One option may be to add a 3-way valve right after the waterfall pump ... then you could use it to pump directly to waste (using a backwash hose or something). Although this will only work down to the level of the waterfall suction port in the pool if it is on the wall.
 
Ok so i checked the CH of tap water is 60 which is much lower than my pool.

I also have a few more pics and maybe you guys can see if there is any way to empty this pool (aside from an external pump).

Chris
 

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Install a 3-way valve on the pipe at the very left of the middle picture ... then use the waterfall pump to to drain it ... at least down to where the water fall pulls in water.

Or rent/buy a submersible pump.

Or just siphon it out if the land slops away from the pool enough.
 
Thank you guys.

One last question. For cleaning the cell it says that I need to use 1 part muriatic acid and 10 parts water. What does this mean? I need a solution of 10% muriatic acid? I have a 29% solution so I was wondering what I need to do with this. I am confused that manual would be so uninformative.

Thx again.

Chris
 
You just want to use 1 part of the 29% and 10 parts of water ... ideally only soaking the internal parts and keeping the wire/etc dry.

Might try a Popsicle stick to gently knock of the scale out as well.
 
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