Perhaps an updated replacement for the A. O. Smith motor? I think the axle's so bent, it keeps getting stuck inside the plastic housing. So, new motor, POSSIBLY new impeller and new housing to achieve a good seal? YouTubed a vid on replacing the motor. He had a screwdriver on the end to hold it and spun the impeller off by hand. But with the endcap off, I don't see any screws to hold in order to do so.
Rushed to the crossroads.
- Thread starter JustJack
- Start date
If the shaft is bent, that may have damaged the housing ... so I would consider just getting a whole new pump/motor combo.
Now the question is are you able to supply 220V to allow you to get a 2-speed ... or ... are you just going to stick with a 1-speed 115V pump ... or ... does someone out there have a line on a 2-speed 115V pump?
BTW, a 3/4-1HP would be plenty big for your pool and be cheaper to buy and run.
Just saw your post, that does in fact look like a 2-speed 115V pump ... kind of pricy though. What size is your plumbing? The Whisperflo is a pretty large pump and you may be able to get something smaller. FYI, the Superflo 2-speed I got was right around $400 but it is 230V.
Now the question is are you able to supply 220V to allow you to get a 2-speed ... or ... are you just going to stick with a 1-speed 115V pump ... or ... does someone out there have a line on a 2-speed 115V pump?
BTW, a 3/4-1HP would be plenty big for your pool and be cheaper to buy and run.
Just saw your post, that does in fact look like a 2-speed 115V pump ... kind of pricy though. What size is your plumbing? The Whisperflo is a pretty large pump and you may be able to get something smaller. FYI, the Superflo 2-speed I got was right around $400 but it is 230V.
The WFDS-3 and the WFDS-24 are 115 volt 2-speed models. They are the same pump they're just rated differently.
2" all around. At least, as far as what can be seen. The pool's 40 years old and I have no idea what's underground. All's been well till it started getting stuck, and it can only get worse.
Also, when I said this morning that it simmered down and I got it running? Yeah, that lasted less than an hour. It's covered now and will have to be until things are replaced.
Also, when I said this morning that it simmered down and I got it running? Yeah, that lasted less than an hour. It's covered now and will have to be until things are replaced.
Bama Rambler said:
The description of the "24" says, "features a rustproof, stainless steel motor shaft and also sealed bearings that will never require lubrication". What's different about the ratings and this "improvement"? The horses?
http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-Stainless ... B002GYW95W
They both have stainless steel shafts and sealed prelubed bearings. The WFDS-3 is full rated at 3/4 hp and the WFDS-24 is uprated at 1 hp. However they are both the exact same SFHP (service factor * horsepower). They are the same, it's just a marketing thing.
There's no difference whatsoever between those two pumps. It's just labeling shenanigans. There may be a significant price difference though, strangely...so check both!
"Chatted" on-line with a CSR at Pool Supply World for options. He said, unless I can acquire 230V, look at the Pentair Superflo but they all have 1.5" port sizing.
Well only the tiniest SuperFlo 2-speed is 115V also (and I have never see it for sale), so their recommendation does not make sense.
There is nothing wrong with the smaller ports on the smaller pump because you do not need to move that much flow. You would just attach the union fitting with a coupler instead of putting the pipe in the fitting.
There is nothing wrong with the smaller ports on the smaller pump because you do not need to move that much flow. You would just attach the union fitting with a coupler instead of putting the pipe in the fitting.
"YAY!" news. The light box was a noisy transformer box that went nowhere while adding a little buzz when you brushed up to it or the screws on the light switch it shared on the other side of the wall. Killed power, opened it up, disconnected the black and white feeding the lighting apparatus, capped them off and taped them. So NOW I have another possible line if a pro says it's good to go to get the 230V. BUT that means separate lines and separate breakers: the original 110 that powers the pump and the separate 110's breaker sharing a light switch with no dedication. Does this alarm Fire Marshall Bill? I've never seen that before. If not, it'll only ever be another outlet source.
Yes it could be alarming. Also you have yet to indicate you have IDed the final single 115V breakers feeding the pump and the light.
The "light" that doesn't exist is in a branch for a garage closet. The pool's breakers are just one double-20 for what's labelled as "pool equipment" and another for "pool". We'll define the difference tomorrow. I'd take a pic of all of this for you, but I'm going to have to see if Office Depot and Canon are going to honor the "No Hassle" extended warranty I bought for $14.99. Love them original receipts!