New pool in SF bay area

BW

0
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 10, 2011
23
SF bay area
First off, we might not have a new pool if not for this site. Discouraged by the conflicting information from pool builders, I wasn't willing to pull the trigger on a pool until I found this site and gained the confidence to go for it. I'll post some pics shortly, but first a more pressing issue...

The PB came this morning to start-up our new pebble finish pool, and it was not at all what I expected. I expected something like described in TFP pool school, but instead we got 1/2 gal of muriatic acid, some baking soda, to two trichlor tabs in the skimmer. I asked about follow-up steps...nothing, the PB is done and gone. I already knew we didn't see eye-to-eye on pool care when I politely turned down their preferred package of ozone, UV, PoolRx and in-line tab feeder.

So now I'm seeking advice on completing the start-up process. The pool finished filling ~24 hrs ago. The pump is running continuously on low.
Current TF100 test results:
FC: 0.5
CC: 2.0
TA: 70
CH: 150
CYA: 0
pH: 8.2

According to the Traditional Start-up procedure I would...
-Add metal sequestrant ASAP
-Brush daily and clean filter as needed
-Hold off on CYA and chlorine for another 48 hrs.
Correct?

What about pH and CH? Adjust ASAP or wait like with chlorine?

Any and all advice appreciated.
 
Hmm - sounds like the builder is not happy he didn't clear an extra few grand on you ;). The builder I work with has a dedicated start-up guy who will visit your pool for two weeks everyday and brush the walls and floor, check the alkalinity & pH and balance both daily. We do the Acid Start-Up type which is highly effective in preventing scaling. I will sometimes stop by to fill-in for him if he gets busy. Missing a day during the start-up is not a good idea.

Sounds like he didn't program your automated system or dual speed pump either. The pump needs to be running on regular speed and not low. Water circulation is pretty important. Low speed will not cut it and could cause some pool surface issues for you - even with a Pebble Finish. Get on the horn with the builder ASAP and tell him you want a real Start-Up including programming your system.
 
I did contact the PB again yesterday but nothing came of it.

The PB had set the "low" pump speed at 40% for filtering and "high" at 60% for solar. It's a small pool with big plumbing so 40% is still 4 to 5 turn-overs per 24 hrs.

I went ahead and got the pH, TA and CH in check, and added sequestrant. New numbers are:
pH = 7.6
TA = 70
CH = 270

Tomorrow with be 72 hrs since the start, so I'll bring up the CYA and chlorine then.

Water still looks great, so I guess I can relax a bit.
 
After start-up, you can turn that low speed much lower for filtering. The VS pumps are most efficient around 1000 rpm which is around 27% of high speed. But as stated above, you may want higher speeds while that surface is "curing".
 
jblizzle said:
After start-up, you can turn that low speed much lower for filtering.
I hear ya. One goal for the pool was low operating cost, and I think we achieved that. 1000 rpm gives me a turnover in 8 hrs and the pump is showing under 100 Watts! But I'll keep the speed up for the first few weeks.
 
The pool has been done for a while, but just got a flickr account set up. Hopefully this works..
11506855154_ffd6a452d3_c.jpg


11506933353_b862990462_c.jpg
 
11507167973_68f26a35d6_c.jpg


The white cylinder on the wall houses my home-brewed chlorine automation. I read all about peristaltic pumps on this site before the pool was build, but unfortunately I didn't have the foresight to reserve a place on the pad for the tank. Anyway its been more than a month since I've touched a chlorine bottle and the FC is right on target.

11507170803_fb50e53ff3_c.jpg
 

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Now for a question...

The coping is a pre-cast concrete tile and two of the corners are constantly wet, as seen in the photo. The water has been dead calm for days and it's still wet, so I assume water is somehow wicking up the waterline tile grout.

Is this common? Is it a problem?

The coping and deck concrete are not sealed. My gut feeling is sealing would just make matters worst because it would trap the moisture which is obviously coming from below. Oh by the way, that deck color was supposed to match the coping. The deck contractor assured me he had the color formula for a perfect match... yeah right.

11507251965_1c8a728262_c.jpg
 
I'm sorry to say I have no idea about the water issue. I see it is in proximity to a return there on the left and am hoping it is not related to that plumbing. I would wonder why the grout would wick up only in that corner and not around the pool elsewhere.

Sorry your PB was such a pill about the startup. I think your pool is beautiful! Can I bother you to ask what the name of your waterline tile is? It looks much like one we are considering (NPT Aquarius Moorea Lapis Blue) and I'm having a heck of a time finding pics online.
 
YAY! I am SO excited that you posted that tile pic - we've been agonizing for weeks and Lapis Blue was the first tile I'd gotten a sample of but have been completely second-guessing myself before pulling the trigger on the order. We're going with a medium gray plaster, so perhaps we will have a slightly deeper water color, but I think it looks beautiful on your pool. I'd been trying to find something to match our water color, but since that is so esoteric at this time, it's almost impossible. I'd decided to find a tile I like and would be happy with even if it doesn't match the water color, and I hope the Lapis Blue is it.

I hope someone comes on that can help with the water wicking issue. I might try to get a scrub brush and scrub off that faint stain (looks like the water is evaporating and leaving a little scaling?) before it gets too set. I did find this link which discussed the efflorescence leaching up through grout. Might help! http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/sho ... p?t=101898
 
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