Trichlor tablets can work

[uwimage]

The tablet will eventually raise your CYA sky high and you'll have to do a partial drain refill. If your CYA is low, then yes, you could use it to help raise the CYA level but I think it's best to throw the granular CYA in a sock and hang it over the return or in the skimmer basket til disolved.

I don't use the pucks. Not many hear do.

I do bleach.

Nothing personal, Costco tabs, never gone above 60 CYA; I'm lazy and don't want to test/add bleach daily...once we go Salt we'll stop...but for ease of use, the tabs we get from Costco work well, $80 something for almost a summers worth...nothing else to buy but maybe a gallon of bleach for shocking.

We will be doing the borax this year though....the first year I bought into the pool store and their $300 magic solution and the water felt great, turns out it was Mule Team 20 and some muritic acid....

 

[chem geek]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

Nothing personal, Costco tabs, never gone above 60 CYA; I'm lazy and don't want to test/add bleach daily...once we go Salt we'll stop...but for ease of use, the tabs we get from Costco work well, $80 something for almost a summers worth...nothing else to buy but maybe a gallon of bleach for shocking.

Everyone's pool experience with CYA levels will be a bit different. Those with smaller pools, sand filters they backwash weekly, with shorter swim seasons and/or who have pool covers will tend to have a slow rise in CYA or sometimes even a drop. Also, some pool owners who close their pool over the winter and "let it go" find CYA levels lower or ever zero in the spring (possibly from soil bacteria that convert the CYA to ammonia, some of which escapes the pool).

In my own pool the first year and a half I used Trichlor tabs/pucks and I have an opaque electric safety cover. My chlorine usage was between 0.5 and 1 ppm FC per day and I found my CYA level that started at 30 ppm ended up at 150 ppm after one and a half seasons -- about 10-11 months of "summer" use. I have a cartridge filter so had no backwashing and minimal splash-out and I maintained chlorine in my pool over the winter (with really low chlorine consumption -- perhaps 1 ppm FC every 2 weeks). Of course, were it not for the unusual chlorine demand from a nascent algae growth that developed (I used a PolyQuat algaecide, but only every other week) and the rusted mounts for stainless steel bars near where the Trichlor feeder often parked itself, I wouldn't have gotten so frustrated as to figure out the pool water chemistry. So every dark cloud has its silver lining.

Richard

 

[duraleigh]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

Nothing personal, Costco tabs, never gone above 60 CYA; I'm lazy and don't want to test/add bleach daily...once we go Salt we'll stop...but for ease of use, the tabs we get from Costco work well, $80 something for almost a summers worth...nothing else to buy but maybe a gallon of bleach for shocking.

This forum gets posts daily from people who have followed your regimen and they are posting because they have HUGE water problems.

As chem geek said, everyone's experience is different but I would be reluctant to suggest your method is effective........too many people over too many years have discovered it doesn't work for their pool.

 

[uwimage]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

Nothing personal, Costco tabs, never gone above 60 CYA; I'm lazy and don't want to test/add bleach daily...once we go Salt we'll stop...but for ease of use, the tabs we get from Costco work well, $80 something for almost a summers worth...nothing else to buy but maybe a gallon of bleach for shocking.

Everyone's pool experience with CYA levels will be a bit different. Those with smaller pools, sand filters they backwash weekly, with shorter swim seasons and/or who have pool covers will tend to have a slow rise in CYA or sometimes even a drop. Also, some pool owners who close their pool over the winter and "let it go" find CYA levels lower or ever zero in the spring (possibly from soil bacteria that convert the CYA to ammonia, some of which escapes the pool).

In my own pool the first year and a half I used Trichlor tabs/pucks and I have an opaque electric safety cover. My chlorine usage was between 0.5 and 1 ppm FC per day and I found my CYA level that started at 30 ppm ended up at 150 ppm after one and a half seasons -- about 10-11 months of "summer" use. I have a cartridge filter so had no backwashing and minimal splash-out and I maintained chlorine in my pool over the winter (with really low chlorine consumption -- perhaps 1 ppm FC every 2 weeks). Of course, were it not for the unusual chlorine demand from a nascent algae growth that developed (I used a PolyQuat algaecide, but only every other week) and the rusted mounts for stainless steel bars near where the Trichlor feeder often parked itself, I wouldn't have gotten so frustrated as to figure out the pool water chemistry. So every dark cloud has its silver lining.

Richard

We swim about 5 months a year, 28K pool, DE Filter, I just make sure to use a good test kit (TF-100) and test CL & PH twice a week and the full blown test once a week....actually, just tested yesterday, here's my results:

FC: 3.0 (only a little high because a storm came through and the water was a mess so I 'shocked' it with a couple of gallons of bleach.....)
CC: 0
TC: 3
PH: 7.4
T/A: 70
CYA: 45
Temp: 87

I don't use the bags of shock, I understand the concept that bleach works as well if I have CC and need to bring that down, no reason to add more CYA if mine is good.

I think people with "all these problems" are over reacting and dumping chem's in their pool, maybe not saying everything they are dumping and asking for advice? It is the internet after all....

I think a nice balance of tabs and BBB can go a long way for people who don't want to add bleach every day, who work 14 to 18 hours a day, this is my first day off in 12 days, I don't want to test anything, add bleach, etc...I want to BBQ and swim, period.

And I've promised Sean when I go salt I'll give up the pool store completely

 

[duraleigh]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

maybe not saying everything they are dumping and asking for advice? It is the internet after all....

Naw, surely not! Folks would never do that, would they?

 

[JasonLion]

I split the discussion of trichlor tablets as a viable source of chlorine into it's own topic.

There is no question that a significant number of people using trichlor tablets never have problems. Likewise many many people using trichlor tablets do have serious problems eventually. With a filter that requires regular backwashing, a shorter than average swim season, significant water replacement for winter closing, and a little luck it is possible to use trichlor and never run into the problems. But even under those ideal conditions it is possible for the CYA level to creep up on you unexpectedly and cause trouble.

To my mind the largest problem with trichlor is that it promotes a false sense of security. It works quite well until it doesn't. Most people never have any idea that their CYA level is climbing, or what that means or what they can do to prevent long term problems (ie more water replacement). In the end, trichlor is not "trouble free", too many people run into problems in the long run. If it works for you and you know the risks, go for it. But for the average novice who doesn't want to know how things work it is too likely to cause trouble.

 

[uwimage]

Good point Jason, and without this site and my TF-100 test kit I could very well be having major problems. I think if I wasn't spending so much time at work and didn't already have to spend 10-15 minutes a day cleaning the pool (lots of large trees and we're NOT getting rid of them) changing the polaris bag etc...I might consider a 100% conversion.

Thanks for splitting the thread, sorry for hijacking the other

And in no way am I trying to say anything negative about the BBB method, just sharing what works for me but yes, you have to keep a very close eye on the CYA, I add about 2 inches of water every week, that and a DE backwash filter probably helps me out.

 

[reindeerboy]

I use trichlor tabs in combination with liquid chlorine. Up here in ND, we have about 5-6 months if we are lucky and then the pool gets drained out. So that means that my CYA is always low in the startup of the year and in 5-6 months, I never have an issue with it.

I did buy a tf100 test kit to be sure and found that in most cases, it was even too low. I do have a sand filter, and do backwash with it, so water of about an inch needs to be added every 10 days or so.

I have found this to work well for me due to the climate conditions that we are all in. This also lengthens the use of these products which in the end, really saves me the cash.

You guys have all really helped me save some money and I thought I would share a website I found that you can buy Soda Ash and Baking Soda at in bulk and its darn cheap. www.cqconcepts.com.

I have used them and since the shelf life is about 2 years on it, I only need to buy this stuf every other year. Helps me out again with the cash issue.

Thanks

 

[AnnaK]

I'm one of the ones using both trichlor and liquid bleach.

The pool is not covered in winter and is frozen solid by January. By mid-April it's thawed. I end the season in late October with ~50 ppm CYA. It drops below measurable amounts over winter. At startup I add enough to get 30 ppm. The trichlor feeder is set to between 1/8 and 1/4 and has never raised the CYA by more than 20 ppm over a season.

My normal FC drop is 0.5 ppm per day. I add liquid chlorine every other day to keep the FC at between 4 and 5 ppm. I monitor CYA once a month. We do have to do a lot of water replenishing because we lose much of it when the dogs swim. Our dilution factor is probably more significant than most other people's.

Using both systems can work; it does for us, but it requires a little more attention to detail.

 

[reindeerboy]

I agree with you Anna. We have dogs and have the same thing. Except one hates the water and the other only goes in the stairs area. Funny Dogs!

My daughter does most of the swimming with her friends in our house and Yes, I too watch the stabalizer level as well. This morning it is only 50-55 and with only about 2.5 months left for the swim season, I know I will not have an issue with it. Still need to watch it thought.

Thank goodness for that test kit Dave. Found out that I really will not need to get more until next season as what I ordered will last me this season without a problem.

Beautiful morning here in Jamestown ND. 75 outside right now, pool is at 78-79 and climing. Should be swimming after dinner in 80+ degree water.

Have a good day everyone!

 

[Guest]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

I think people with "all these problems" are over reacting and dumping chem's in their pool, maybe not saying everything they are dumping and asking for advice? It is the internet after all....
I see these problems all the time at work so I can tell you overstabilization is real. Cartridge filters are more of a problem than filters that backwash and climates that do not winterize pools have more of a problem. I have a some customers that stay fairly stable on their CYA from trichlor because the amount of backwashing they do pretty much equalizes the amount of CYA they are adding but they are in the minority!
I think a nice balance of tabs and BBB can go a long way for people who don't want to add bleach every day, who work 14 to 18 hours a day, this is my first day off in 12 days, I don't want to test anything, add bleach, etc...I want to BBQ and swim, period.
Trichlor can be very workable if you know WHEN to stop using it, which is before your CYA has gone sky high. Using trichlor to provide 'background chlorination' that you suppliment with liquid or cal hypo can work BUT not for very long with a cartridge filter. IF you have a very short swim season them it's probably not a problem at all but if you have a 5 month or longer swim season and a cartridge filter you WILL have an overstabilized pool before swim season is over.
And I've promised Sean when I go salt I'll give up the pool store completely

You will still need CYA and possibly metal sequesterant when you go salt so you might still need the pool store (and don't forget when you need to replace the salt cell!)

 

[CarlD]

To my mind the largest problem with trichlor is that it promotes a false sense of security. It works quite well until it doesn't.

Bingo! Sometimes somebody just puts their finger right on the heart of an issue. You just did it.

If you are experienced and know what you are doing you can use just about any chemical you want BECAUSE YOU KNOW WHAT ITS EFFECT WILL BE AND THAT'S THE EFFECT YOU DESIRE!

I use pucks from time to time--to slowly add CYA and keep a more constant chlorine level. But I do it because I WANT more CYA in my pool and I feel my pH is a tad high and can be lowered. But if CYA is 50 and pH is 7.3, there's NO WAY I'm using tri-chlor OR di-chlor in my pool. Today I added di-chlor because with all the rain we had last week, my CYA is below where I want it and my pH hit 8.1 (A real shock since rain is slightly acidic here).

If you don't even want to TEST your water, then use the municipal pool or hire a pool service. I hate to sound cold but people who won't test their water get no sympathy from me. It's like complaining about being sick then saying you don't have time to see a doctor.

 

[IkeRay]

Re: Do you use chemicals from a pool store or 'big box' store?

I think people with "all these problems" are over reacting and dumping chem's in their pool, maybe not saying everything they are dumping and asking for advice? It is the internet after all....

I think a nice balance of tabs and BBB can go a long way for people who don't want to add bleach every day, who work 14 to 18 hours a day, this is my first day off in 12 days, I don't want to test anything, add bleach, etc...I want to BBQ and swim, period.

if done correctly, BBB should take a little over 1/2 hour a week, that is <5 min a day and a "little" extra time to brush (once a week). you don't HAVE to test daily, pools are pretty consistent unless you have a storm come through. you are going to lose X amount of Cl a day, and its going to be RIGHT about that amount every day, again barring a major weather disruption.

In all seriousness, my "taking care of the pool" is to walk out there at 7pm and pour in 96oz of bleach, pump is on timer to run until 9pm, I had to do minimal work today but put in the amount of Chlorine I had lost that day. the hardest part of the BBB method is learning your pool, which will take you a whooping 10 min a day at best. I tested the water for 2 weeks straight, and even after 3 days I knew how my pool acted.

I think the biggest problem for trichlor users is the tendency to have to shock once a week since the trichlor slowly looses its effectiveness. with bleach, since the CYA isn't rising, the bleach is just as effective from day 1 to day 7. the use of algaecide helps with trichlor, but it still isn't as steady as bleach.


some trichlor users are beyond frustrated, well rather MOST are. I think there are more trichlor users pulling their hair out about their pool than there are that feel their pool is balanced. my brother has had it with his trichlor pool, he told me he is thinking of going to bromine, so I have to turn him onto this site before he takes some bad moves... my father-in-law has also had it with his pool and has now brought in a service.

I think I'm about to start a "pool service" for my brother's and father-in-law's pools, I'll charge them what they are currently paying for chems and pocket the excess .

 

[reindeerboy]

I use trichlor in combination with liquid chlorine or liquid bleach in most cases. I do not have to shock at all now, and this way I am still adding some stabalizer in the pool at the same time as we have a sand filter and have an issue of never having enough stabalizer in the pool. That is the only reason I am using a puck a week in combination of everything else.

I did confront my pool guy about the cost of those pucks as I can get them for half the price from intheswim.com and they are basically the same thing. No response yet from him. HMMMM wonder why!

Probably wont need pucks again for another year as 50lbs lasts me for 2 years with the combination of liquid chlorine/bleach that I use now. Much less expensive, simple to use, and I only test now about once a week as I know what is needed like was said earlier, you get to know your pool unless there is a weather issue.

 

[JCJR]

Nothing personal, Costco tabs, never gone above 60 CYA; I'm lazy and don't want to test/add bleach daily...once we go Salt we'll stop...but for ease of use,

I want to address the lazy part. Maintaining a pool is work, no way of getting around that unless you hire some one and then hope they know what they are doing because it is going to cost you $$$$ and possibly WORK later down the road. Even if you have a service, it is a good idea to test your own water. I did not mind the work in the beggining because of the excitement of owning a new pool and added bleach daily. Now I am getting lazy and the pool sometimes becomes a chore for me. I thought about getting a SWG but did not want to spend the $$$ so I got a Liquidator. Let me tell you it cut my maintenance down over 50% (I am taking a guess at that percentage, but it actually feels like 75% of my time I was adding bleach). Now it is not much of a chore because I understand that if I do not keep up with my testing, then it becomes a bigger chore. I want to add to JasonLion's comment, "using trichlor is not the best way to maintain a TroubleFreePool"........ BBB is.

 

[bluenoise]

...To my mind the largest problem with trichlor is that it promotes a false sense of security. It works quite well until it doesn't. Most people never have any idea that their CYA level is climbing, or what that means or what they can do to prevent long term problems (ie more water replacement). In the end, trichlor is not "trouble free", too many people run into problems in the long run. If it works for you and you know the risks, go for it. But for the average novice who doesn't want to know how things work it is too likely to cause trouble.

This is exactly how I found this forum. I couldn't understand why I was getting algae with FC over 7 and shocking seemed to do nothing. The pool store tried to sell me all kinds of additives to fight the algae, but never mentioned stabilizer. In fact, their answer was to pour in even more granulated chlorine. It was after Googling around to try to figure it out that I came here and learned about how the tablets caused my CYA levels to be through the roof. I punted on the tablets and put in the SWG.* I also had to replace a lot of my water, since my CYA was well-north of 200-300 from years of pucks-in-floater use.

* One of the driving factors for going with the SWG was I didn't want to have to add bleach/chlorine each day as we're often not home enough to do it.

 

[Water_man]

The pros here say that it's like Murphy's Law: if something CAN go wrong it will.
I've met a few pool owners who have used nothing but trichlor pucks and nothing happened to their pool.

This is my third season with my pool and last year, when I used trichlor before I converted to BBB, I had a "pink algae" bloom.

Why some pools are different than others?
Maybe it has to do with the "vegetation load". My pool is bombarded by falling leaves and any other form of vegetation imaginable. The "trouble free" pools I noticed don't have this problem. Algae need food. Food comes from organic matter in the water. Some pools have more of it than others.
Does it make sense?

 

[CarlD]

You answer your own question. We don't think about it much, but each pool is in a very, very complex biological environment and even the slightest change can have big effects. Plus that environment is changes MUCHO during the pool season. Pollen time is now past in New Jersey and the beating sun means higher CYA levels may be in order. Just for an example. And if you live near a pond, in boggy soil, you may get different fauna in your pool than if you live in sandy drier areas. One day last week, my skimmer was full of dead flying ants. But just that one day. Go Figure!

 

[chatcher]

The last thing this thread needs is another opinion, but I'll add one anyway.

Part of maintaining a pool is developing a routine, learning what the pool "needs", and keeping up with it to prevent problems from occurring. Routinely adding something that causes those needs to change over time defeats the purpose of having a routine. If CYA levels are steady, you can pretty much count on adding the same amount of bleach regularly with the same results. If you use trichlor, using the same amount regularly causes the CYA level to continually increase, meaning that the amount of chlorine you add via trichlor on day 250 won't have the same effect as the same amount you added on day 25. What originally worked fine in the beginning part of the learning process becomes ineffective, typically later in the season when you may not be paying as much attention to water chemistry, causing problems and leading to confusion and frustration.

Not that trichlor is a bad product. When starting with new water, both chlorine and CYA are needed, so a product that supplies both is not a bad choice. But when the day comes that only one of the two are needed, trichlor ceases to be suitable.

 

[CarlD]

The last thing this thread needs is another opinion, but I'll add one anyway.

Part of maintaining a pool is developing a routine, learning what the pool "needs", and keeping up with it to prevent problems from occurring. Routinely adding something that causes those needs to change over time defeats the purpose of having a routine. If CYA levels are steady, you can pretty much count on adding the same amount of bleach regularly with the same results. If you use trichlor, using the same amount regularly causes the CYA level to continually increase, meaning that the amount of chlorine you add via trichlor on day 250 won't have the same effect as the same amount you added on day 25. What originally worked fine in the beginning part of the learning process becomes ineffective, typically later in the season when you may not be paying as much attention to water chemistry, causing problems and leading to confusion and frustration.

Not that trichlor is a bad product. When starting with new water, both chlorine and CYA are needed, so a product that supplies both is not a bad choice. But when the day comes that only one of the two are needed, trichlor ceases to be suitable.

What chatcher said!

The ways to avoid the trap:
1) Chlorinate with Bleach or Liquid Chlorine.
2) Run a full set of tests on your water every week for FC, CC, pH, T/A, CYA, and, if you have a concrete pool, CH. If you have vinyl I'd check ch 2-3x a summer.
3) and check your chlorine and pH every day.