Hi, We are considering converting to chlorine from baqua but I want to make sure the amount of chlorine it sounds like we will be putting into the pool will not harm the heater. We have AG pool. 17' x 24', my husband thinks its 13,800 gal., we have a sand filter, 1.5 hp pump and a stay-rite propane heater. When we got the heater we had the installer plumb it so we can bypass the heater. Would it be better to bypass the heater until most of the conversion is done then just add it back in so its not getting all that chlorine (is chlorine corrosive? I know I have have put holes in some laundry when I used too much bleach, lol) . I'm calling the pool store to see if we can return the baqua we have left otherwise my husband wants to wait until next year but due to an unfortunate accident we have lost half or more of our water so since we are adding so much water I think this would be a good time to make the switch. If we can return it I will be ordering the test kit and looking for bleach. Thanks for any advice.
will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from baqua
- Thread starter sdut1054
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Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Welcome to TFP!
The concentration of bleach in a washing machine is far higher than it is in a properly chlorinated pool. A typical top-load washer uses about 40 gallons. If you put in 1 cup of 8.25% bleach in a 40 gallon washer, you will have a chlorine (FC) level of ~ 133 ppm. This is one of the reasons why bleach gets a bad rap for use in swimming pools.
Let's put this in perspective: For a pool with a CYA of 40 ppm, the typical FC level is around 5 ppm. The shock (or SLAM) FC level is 16 ppm, and the Mustard shock FC level is ~ 22 ppm.
Here is the recommended process for converting a Baqua pool to chlorine: Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine. You will see that it calls for an FC of 15 ppm, far lower than the concentration in your washer. Once your pool is fully converted, you can reduce the chlorine concentration to the lower maintenance levels.
Welcome to TFP!
I would circulate the chlorine throughout the entire system, including the heater. Improper pH levels, not the use of chlorine, will cause problems with the heater (corrosion if pH is too low and scaling if pH is too high).sdut1054 said:
The concentration of bleach in a washing machine is far higher than it is in a properly chlorinated pool. A typical top-load washer uses about 40 gallons. If you put in 1 cup of 8.25% bleach in a 40 gallon washer, you will have a chlorine (FC) level of ~ 133 ppm. This is one of the reasons why bleach gets a bad rap for use in swimming pools.
Let's put this in perspective: For a pool with a CYA of 40 ppm, the typical FC level is around 5 ppm. The shock (or SLAM) FC level is 16 ppm, and the Mustard shock FC level is ~ 22 ppm.
Here is the recommended process for converting a Baqua pool to chlorine: Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine. You will see that it calls for an FC of 15 ppm, far lower than the concentration in your washer. Once your pool is fully converted, you can reduce the chlorine concentration to the lower maintenance levels.
I would order the test kit regardless of whether you can return the Baqua. You will need it for the Baqua conversion and for ongoing water chemistry maintenance.sdut1054 said:
Ready to start conversion
Hi its been awhile since we decided to convert from baquacil to chlorine but I've ordered and received the test kit returned the baquacil to the pool store and told them we were converting to chlorine. He got me set up but gave me chlorine tablets. When I asked about liquid chlorine he said it is 12 % at best and very unstable. The tablets are 99% chlorine and very stable. He also said not to do anything until I brought in a water sample as it could be harmful if I just added chlorine. We live 1 1/2 hours away from the pool store and haven't be back since. I am actually going today but I'm wondering if I should get liquid chlorine or will the tablets work? Thanks for any help.
Sharon
Hi its been awhile since we decided to convert from baquacil to chlorine but I've ordered and received the test kit returned the baquacil to the pool store and told them we were converting to chlorine. He got me set up but gave me chlorine tablets. When I asked about liquid chlorine he said it is 12 % at best and very unstable. The tablets are 99% chlorine and very stable. He also said not to do anything until I brought in a water sample as it could be harmful if I just added chlorine. We live 1 1/2 hours away from the pool store and haven't be back since. I am actually going today but I'm wondering if I should get liquid chlorine or will the tablets work? Thanks for any help.
Sharon
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
If you have a test kit, you can probably stop going to that pool store.
You will want liquid chlorine or bleach for the conversion. You will need to get FC into the water quickly, plus you don't want the byproducts from solid forms.
If you have a test kit, you can probably stop going to that pool store.
You will want liquid chlorine or bleach for the conversion. You will need to get FC into the water quickly, plus you don't want the byproducts from solid forms.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Since you live so far away I wouldn't even worry about getting the liquid from them. I would use plain bleach from a more local place. You're going to need a lot of it and getting is closer to where you live would be a plus.
Since you live so far away I wouldn't even worry about getting the liquid from them. I would use plain bleach from a more local place. You're going to need a lot of it and getting is closer to where you live would be a plus.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
As others have said, definitely use bleach/liquid chlorine. If you use the tabs, you would likely have to do a drain/refill after the conversion since they add cya and you would need a lot of them. Additionally, the amount of bleach/liquid chlorine you will need will likely be cheaper than the amount of tabs you would need. See:
As others have said, definitely use bleach/liquid chlorine. If you use the tabs, you would likely have to do a drain/refill after the conversion since they add cya and you would need a lot of them. Additionally, the amount of bleach/liquid chlorine you will need will likely be cheaper than the amount of tabs you would need. See:
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Where do you live?? If you plan on closing I'd agree with him.... Waiting maybe best.
Where do you live?? If you plan on closing I'd agree with him.... Waiting maybe best.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Hi again, well we've started the conversion process this afternoon. We tested the water pH before we added any bleach and it was at 7.5. We added the bleach and the water immediately turned a little green but then a dark red muddy color. We left it for a couple of hours and then went out to check it. The red color was gone and it looks a little yellowish to me but clear. We took a water sample but the pH is now a deep purple 8.2 + and the chlorine side will not mix. It's clear with orange colored streaks and as it sits the color seems to be floating to the top. We went ahead and did the chlorine drop test. When we first put in the R-0870 powder it seemed to turn the faintest bit pink but as we swirled it it went back to clear which seems to indicate no chlorine. Should I add more chlorine or get the pH down first? Thanks for any help.
Hi again, well we've started the conversion process this afternoon. We tested the water pH before we added any bleach and it was at 7.5. We added the bleach and the water immediately turned a little green but then a dark red muddy color. We left it for a couple of hours and then went out to check it. The red color was gone and it looks a little yellowish to me but clear. We took a water sample but the pH is now a deep purple 8.2 + and the chlorine side will not mix. It's clear with orange colored streaks and as it sits the color seems to be floating to the top. We went ahead and did the chlorine drop test. When we first put in the R-0870 powder it seemed to turn the faintest bit pink but as we swirled it it went back to clear which seems to indicate no chlorine. Should I add more chlorine or get the pH down first? Thanks for any help.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
If you are ever unsure of presence of chlorine, the best way is to use the OTO chlorine test (one attaced to the ph) and see if it turns color. If it does you have chlorine and if it turns orange, or brown you have a lot of chlorine.
Ignore the ph reading when the FC is above 10 ppm, since the high chlorine affects the ph test.
My guess is you used too little powder since I am also guessing your FC is pretty high. How high did you dose too? We recommend 15 ppm FC during a conversion.sdut1054 said:
If you are ever unsure of presence of chlorine, the best way is to use the OTO chlorine test (one attaced to the ph) and see if it turns color. If it does you have chlorine and if it turns orange, or brown you have a lot of chlorine.
Ignore the ph reading when the FC is above 10 ppm, since the high chlorine affects the ph test.
I need help with baqua converstion and test results
Merged topics. Please keep all conversion info in this thread to help responders with the history.
Butterfly
I posted this in my original thread but think it might be better here. I started the conversion yesterday. Before putting in bleach I tested the pH and it was 7.5. I put in the bleach and the water immediately turned first a green color and then a dark red muddy color. I left it for a couple of hours and when I checked it again the red color was gone. It looked a little greenish yellow. I tested it and the pH was really high 8.2+ but the chlorine dye didn't mix with the water. It was clear with orange streaks and as it set the orange pretty much floated to the top. I did the chlorine drop test and when I added the R-0870 powder it turned the slightest pink but when I swirled it it went clear. That seems to indicate no chlorine if I am reading the instructions correctly. Should I lower the pH first or add more chlorine? Is it dangerous to add both chemicals at the same time? I retested just now with about the same results. the pH still really high, the chlorine seemed to mix a little better but the dye was still separate. The chlorine drop test was a deeper, brighter pink but still when clear when swirled. Any help is appreciated. Above ground pool, 13,800 gals. (according to pool store), 1 1/2 pump, and stay-rite heater
Merged topics. Please keep all conversion info in this thread to help responders with the history.
ButterflyI posted this in my original thread but think it might be better here. I started the conversion yesterday. Before putting in bleach I tested the pH and it was 7.5. I put in the bleach and the water immediately turned first a green color and then a dark red muddy color. I left it for a couple of hours and when I checked it again the red color was gone. It looked a little greenish yellow. I tested it and the pH was really high 8.2+ but the chlorine dye didn't mix with the water. It was clear with orange streaks and as it set the orange pretty much floated to the top. I did the chlorine drop test and when I added the R-0870 powder it turned the slightest pink but when I swirled it it went clear. That seems to indicate no chlorine if I am reading the instructions correctly. Should I lower the pH first or add more chlorine? Is it dangerous to add both chemicals at the same time? I retested just now with about the same results. the pH still really high, the chlorine seemed to mix a little better but the dye was still separate. The chlorine drop test was a deeper, brighter pink but still when clear when swirled. Any help is appreciated. Above ground pool, 13,800 gals. (according to pool store), 1 1/2 pump, and stay-rite heater
Re: I need help with baqua converstion and test results
High FC interferes with the pH test. If you were sure about the 7.5 before conversion, it should be OK. I haven't seen your other thread, but it would likely be better to keep it all in one. Mods may merge it just FYI. Wild colors are the norm with BC conversions, so don't let that surprise you. It sounds like you have enough FC in the test sample to bleach out the color of the indicator. How much Chlorine have you added? Also, if you will give us your dimensions, it will be easy to give you an accurate pool volume. After that, you can add all your pool info to your signature line. It helps us help you much more easily when we have the particulars.
High FC interferes with the pH test. If you were sure about the 7.5 before conversion, it should be OK. I haven't seen your other thread, but it would likely be better to keep it all in one. Mods may merge it just FYI. Wild colors are the norm with BC conversions, so don't let that surprise you. It sounds like you have enough FC in the test sample to bleach out the color of the indicator. How much Chlorine have you added? Also, if you will give us your dimensions, it will be easy to give you an accurate pool volume. After that, you can add all your pool info to your signature line. It helps us help you much more easily when we have the particulars.
Re: I need help with baqua converstion and test results
X2 on Brushpups question on "how much chlorine have you added?"
A quick flash of pink says one of two things. Either your FC is low, or not enough powder was used. Odds say in a baqua conversion the FC is very low to zero. Try the test using the K1000 kit and see if any yellow shows up. I'll bet it will show zero too.
If the FC is lower than 10 you can adjust the PH down to 7.2 before adding more chlorine. If the FC is above 10 however the PH could show a false high, and the results should be ignored until the chlorine levels lower.
X2 on Brushpups question on "how much chlorine have you added?"
A quick flash of pink says one of two things. Either your FC is low, or not enough powder was used. Odds say in a baqua conversion the FC is very low to zero. Try the test using the K1000 kit and see if any yellow shows up. I'll bet it will show zero too.
If the FC is lower than 10 you can adjust the PH down to 7.2 before adding more chlorine. If the FC is above 10 however the PH could show a false high, and the results should be ignored until the chlorine levels lower.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Ps.....if you lower the PH just let the pump run about 30 minutes before adding the chlorine, all will be fine.
Ps.....if you lower the PH just let the pump run about 30 minutes before adding the chlorine, all will be fine.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
I added 26 containers of 121 oz. 8.25% bleach. We happened to go to town today so we stopped at the pool store to return the chlorine tablets and other stuff they sold me to convert and I had them test a water sample. They said the CYA was 10, Tot. chlorine was 10, the free chlorine was 10, pH was off the chart, tot. alkalinity was 54, adj. alk. was 51, tot hardness was 100. Why didn't the dye (or chemical) mix with the water in the OTO chlorine test? Is that normal? I used the little blue scoop/spoon that came with the test kit for the R-0870 powder. (.05 g) After re-reading the instructions for the chlorine drop test I see it didn't say to swirl the water after adding the powder but to swirl after adding R-0871. I also somehow missed the part about false pH readings when reading about other conversions. Sorry, I really panicked. I plan to measure the pool tomorrow to get accurate measurements. I thought it was 17 wide by 24 feet long by 4 feet deep, but when it has gotten too full from winter rain it has bent the support poles out a little so it is a little wider in some places. How they came up with 13,800 gal. for pool volume I don't know. That's not what the pool math calculator comes up with. Anyway thanks for your help I really appreciate it. I will go ahead and add more chlorine tomorrow morning.
I added 26 containers of 121 oz. 8.25% bleach. We happened to go to town today so we stopped at the pool store to return the chlorine tablets and other stuff they sold me to convert and I had them test a water sample. They said the CYA was 10, Tot. chlorine was 10, the free chlorine was 10, pH was off the chart, tot. alkalinity was 54, adj. alk. was 51, tot hardness was 100. Why didn't the dye (or chemical) mix with the water in the OTO chlorine test? Is that normal? I used the little blue scoop/spoon that came with the test kit for the R-0870 powder. (.05 g) After re-reading the instructions for the chlorine drop test I see it didn't say to swirl the water after adding the powder but to swirl after adding R-0871. I also somehow missed the part about false pH readings when reading about other conversions. Sorry, I really panicked. I plan to measure the pool tomorrow to get accurate measurements. I thought it was 17 wide by 24 feet long by 4 feet deep, but when it has gotten too full from winter rain it has bent the support poles out a little so it is a little wider in some places. How they came up with 13,800 gal. for pool volume I don't know. That's not what the pool math calculator comes up with. Anyway thanks for your help I really appreciate it. I will go ahead and add more chlorine tomorrow morning.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Good call having the store test the water. While I'll disregard 90% of the results, it gives a starting spot.
First off, check out TF-100's YouTube Channel. It shows all the tests done up close with directions. This should clear any questions you have with testing. When doing all tests swirl the water to mix the reagents durining the entire test. The drops/powder need to be mixed well for an accurate result. Again, the videos show what I mean.
Next, using the K1000 (test kit with the chlorine and PH test block) see if you get any results. We'll use this test to confirm that there is chlorine in the water. If your FC is 10 as the store says, then it should show a dark yellow.
Let's hold off on adding more chlorine until we get you 100% on track with the testing. Slamming blind without knowing just what you're adding is never a good idea. Pausing will slow ya down a bit, but is much safer.
Again......
1. Watch the YouTube videos and see if that clears up any questions you have on the tests.
2. Check the chlorine levels using the K1000 and see if it's a dark yellow.
3. Retest the FC using the FAS/DPD (one with powder) again. See after watching the video if the directions are more clear. Try adding 2 scoops of powder to be sure you have enough, as "floating" powder won't affect the results. Only not having enough powder will cause issues.
Good call having the store test the water. While I'll disregard 90% of the results, it gives a starting spot.
First off, check out TF-100's YouTube Channel. It shows all the tests done up close with directions. This should clear any questions you have with testing. When doing all tests swirl the water to mix the reagents durining the entire test. The drops/powder need to be mixed well for an accurate result. Again, the videos show what I mean.
Next, using the K1000 (test kit with the chlorine and PH test block) see if you get any results. We'll use this test to confirm that there is chlorine in the water. If your FC is 10 as the store says, then it should show a dark yellow.
Let's hold off on adding more chlorine until we get you 100% on track with the testing. Slamming blind without knowing just what you're adding is never a good idea. Pausing will slow ya down a bit, but is much safer.
Again......
1. Watch the YouTube videos and see if that clears up any questions you have on the tests.
2. Check the chlorine levels using the K1000 and see if it's a dark yellow.
3. Retest the FC using the FAS/DPD (one with powder) again. See after watching the video if the directions are more clear. Try adding 2 scoops of powder to be sure you have enough, as "floating" powder won't affect the results. Only not having enough powder will cause issues.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Take a deep breath and keep reading some more. A baqua conversion requires FAR more attention to detail than that dose indicates you are doing. From step #2 in the conversion article in Pool School....
I suggest you leave your pool right where it is and get a better understanding of how to dose and when to dose. You may very well damage your pool liner if you continue to add chlorine without a better understanding of the dosages.
For now, you can assume no harm done but I would give another day or two so your chlorine will come down to a level where you can measure it and then start the conversion process over again.
Disregard testing for pH until your conversion is done.
Why? That will yield an FC result of over 100 ppm in a 14k pool. A TOTAL overdose. Your pH is completely invalid based on that dosage. You cannot measure chlorine that high which is why your test did not work.
Take a deep breath and keep reading some more. A baqua conversion requires FAR more attention to detail than that dose indicates you are doing. From step #2 in the conversion article in Pool School....
I suggest you leave your pool right where it is and get a better understanding of how to dose and when to dose. You may very well damage your pool liner if you continue to add chlorine without a better understanding of the dosages.
For now, you can assume no harm done but I would give another day or two so your chlorine will come down to a level where you can measure it and then start the conversion process over again.
Disregard testing for pH until your conversion is done.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
I'm reading this as they've added a TOTAL of 3146oz of bleach over an extended time span.......not all at once.
Sdut1054......how many times have you added bleach to the pool?? Was this dose all at once (I hope not).
I'm reading this as they've added a TOTAL of 3146oz of bleach over an extended time span.......not all at once.
Sdut1054......how many times have you added bleach to the pool?? Was this dose all at once (I hope not).
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
I used the poolmath to determine how much bleach to add and it said to add the 26 containers and yes I did add it all at once. Yikes. I've watched the u tube videos about testing and will reread the pool school steps. I am also going out right now to measure pool myself and to retest. I hope I haven't really messed up the pool and equipment.
I used the poolmath to determine how much bleach to add and it said to add the 26 containers and yes I did add it all at once. Yikes. I've watched the u tube videos about testing and will reread the pool school steps. I am also going out right now to measure pool myself and to retest. I hope I haven't really messed up the pool and equipment.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
I think you added a 0 in your pool volume, you should have put in 2.4 gallons to go from 0 to 15 ppm FC in at 13800 gallon pool. Your FC is very very high, but not much you can do now, but let it drop down. This is also why your fas-dpd flashed pink then went clear.
I think you added a 0 in your pool volume, you should have put in 2.4 gallons to go from 0 to 15 ppm FC in at 13800 gallon pool. Your FC is very very high, but not much you can do now, but let it drop down. This is also why your fas-dpd flashed pink then went clear.
Re: will chlorine harm pool heater during conversion from ba
Let's try to do the FAS/DPD test using two scoops of powder. Get a rough idea on your FC levels for now. You've do a major error, and damage is a high possibility. A good thing for you is that the Baqua is going to quickly consume some of the chlorine.......and the sun is going to use up alot too with zero CYA in the water.
Let's try to do the FAS/DPD test using two scoops of powder. Get a rough idea on your FC levels for now. You've do a major error, and damage is a high possibility. A good thing for you is that the Baqua is going to quickly consume some of the chlorine.......and the sun is going to use up alot too with zero CYA in the water.