New Pool & high PH?

Jul 26, 2011
115
So I have a 22,000 pool and my experience with the pool contractor has been pretty bad. Of course, I have been trained on nothing.

I have an Easy Touch System, Intellichem Chemical Controller, PH Controller with 4 gallon tank, ozonator, intellichlor salt water generator.

My readings are:

PH 7.9 (this climbs from 7.0 to this level each week), I thought the PH controller would take care of this?
ORP Level 515 (this consistently drops throughout the week)?
Water Balance +.45 Normal
Salt Level 2950
Calcium Hardness 250
Alkalinity 90
Cyanuric Acid 0
(All readings from Screenlogic)

My pool installer has been checking chemicals weekly, but this is about to end, hopefully he will train me, but with the relationship I will probably be seeing him in court.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
What are you using for your testing? You need one of the recommended test kits.

You CYA is way too low. For a SWG it should be up around 70-80ppm.

Not sure how the pH control works, but I thought you just set a target.

Btw, the ozone is worthless in an outdoor residential pool.
 
How new is the pool? In the first three or four weeks you should not be using the SWG (don't add salt for the first four weeks). The PH, TA, and CH levels will also tend to go up rapidly during this period, especially PH. The PH rise is normally faster than the PH controller can deal with during this period. After the first few weeks the PH increase will slow down significantly, continuing at a slower rate for up to a year.

I do not recommend using ORP based controllers at all for residential pools. They have frequent problems, require additional maintenance, and even when working don't perform any better than a SWG alone can do when properly setup.
 
It does not reduce the required FC level and in fact will consume some of the chlorine ... so it will cost you in power to run it and in having to add more chlorine than you would have to without it for no real benefit.
 
Natural Pool Water Sanitation
Kills up to 99.99% bacteria, viruses, molds
Virtually eliminates harmful chloramines
Won't irritate eyes, dry out skin or fade swimwear
Eliminates oils, lotions and other contaminants
Generates 4-5 times higher ozone concentration than UV lamps (1500 PPM compared to 300 PPM)
Uses 70-90% less electricity than UV lamps
Employs ozone sizing standards developed from commercial pool guidelines and drinking water standards
Offers ozone electrodes that outlast UV lamps by two to three years
Is priced within 10% of UV lamp pricing

So this is all BS?
 
Not exactly, but you still need to have chlorine (or other sanitizer) in the bulk of the water to protect against person-to-person transmission. Clorine alone does all that you mentioned anyway. And the Sun provides plenty of UV to break down the chloramines.

They are only really useful for very high bather loads (public pools), hot tubs, or indoor pools that do not get the benefit of the sun.
 
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