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Thread: BioGuard Back Up?

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    new2pools's Avatar
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    BioGuard Back Up?

    Do I need to add this? I have a new pool and was told to add this @ 7 oz every other week.

    Also, to have 2 tablets ("Sanitizer"=chlorine tabs?) at all times in the skimmer basket.

    Thanks!
    27' Round AGP, 17200 GAL, 2 HP/2 SPD Pump/Cartridge Filter.......BBB!

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    new2pools's Avatar
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    The Back Up is to prevent Algae, btw.
    27' Round AGP, 17200 GAL, 2 HP/2 SPD Pump/Cartridge Filter.......BBB!

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    new2pools's Avatar
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    Okay, reading through things here on the forum looks like maybe I don't need it? Maybe just keep it around just in case I might need it in the future??
    I have the PH test strips but think I will order the one from here. I have SOOOO much to learn!
    27' Round AGP, 17200 GAL, 2 HP/2 SPD Pump/Cartridge Filter.......BBB!

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    You are finding like I did, that the minute you ask a question, you find the answer!!

    The tabs will eventually raise your CYA so high that the amount of chlorine in them will no longer be effective at preventing problems.
    The Back up is unnecessary. If you keep your FC level in the right range for your CYA by adding a little bleach every day, you will prevent algae.

    Next question?


    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    I have an auto Puck feeder. The Pucks I use are apparently free of stabilizer.
    From what I am reading --- the general consensus seems that all Pucks are evil.

    Why can’t I use the BBB method only modified to be PBB.

    What are the drawbacks? This is a real question I'm not trying to be a smart-alecky.
    10,000 Gal. - Plaster – I.G. - Sand Filter – NOT USING MY Auto Puck Chlorinator.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Almost all pucks have stabilizer. There is a very rare exception that has calcium instead. In either case you are adding something to your water that is going to cause problems in the long run (though it might be great in the short run).
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    I did not know you could buy pucks free of stabilizer. I know that most pucks don't say they have stabilizer in them however.

    What exactly are you using?
    15,500 gal, inground gunite pool with 7 ft spa, 2 speed pump 2hp/.33hp, 3/4 hp booster pump, Intermatic P1353 timer, AutoPilot SC-48, Sand filter with ZeoBest, Heater, that I never use . . .

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Accu-Tab, http://corporateportal.ppg.com/na/calhypo/Accutab/, makes cal-hypo pucks. They are only useful in their specially made feeders though.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    I will copy the info from the bucket this evening.
    The pool store says that they dont sell stabilized pucks.
    This was after I asked about CYI build up.

    Might be an un-truth
    10,000 Gal. - Plaster – I.G. - Sand Filter – NOT USING MY Auto Puck Chlorinator.

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bpotter
    I will copy the info from the bucket this evening.
    The pool store says that they dont sell stabilized pucks.
    This was after I asked about CYI build up.

    Might be an un-truth
    I seriously doubt that a pool store does not sell stabilized pucks. Just shows the level of "expertise". As far as your observation "that all pucks are evil", I don't necessarily believe this is actually the consensus. As long as a pool owner knows what they are adding (CYA) and the side effects (lowers pH), then as Richard (Chemgeek) has deduced in the past, they are actually the cheapest form of chlorine, and IMO the easiest to use.
    HOWEVER
    Most unsuspecting pool owners don't have a clue and seldom even check their pH much less their CYA so once they find out about the pucks, they feel they are evil little beasts. I personally use bleach 90% of the time and pucks about 10% of the time, but I "Stay ahead of my water" as CarlD says. Others use Cal hypo if they need the added calcium. They only way you can get chlorine for your residential pool is if it is mixed with some other ingredient due to the nature of the chemical. Liquid chlorine (bleach) is mixed with salt water, Trichlor (pucks) and Dichlor (shock) are mixed with CYA, Cal Hypo is mixed with calcium and then there is the shocks mixed with lithium. They all will leave behind something other than just chlorine so most of us here feel that the salt water left over from using bleach is the lesser of the evils.

    Dave

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    TexasGirl's Avatar
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    "BioGuard Back Up? Do I need to add this?"

    When my pool was new, it was started with BioGuard products, just like yours.
    Two important things I've learned about BioGuard products:
    1. You don't need them. (Alternatives are equal or better)
    2. They're over-priced.

    These forums are all you need.
    I dropped BioGuard when I fired my pool guy.
    Debbie

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    new2pools's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    Okay, so most everything I got was BioGuard. I have ordered the tester from Dave here (duraleigh) so hopefully I will be all set to run this thing in no time. It is all just a bit overwhelming right now though.
    27' Round AGP, 17200 GAL, 2 HP/2 SPD Pump/Cartridge Filter.......BBB!

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