Swg and shocking ????

Sep 11, 2013
176
Cocoa, fl
Ok kinda new to swg pool. Pinch a penny told me today that I should still shock my pool every to weeks with a half Jerry jug of chlorine.

Is this true? My level of chlorine is always good and strong. But he says to still shock.




15,000 gal
Cement Inground with hottub in beach area
Hayward goldline aquaplus, gas heater, t 15 cell
Waterfall with 4 foot drop
Super 2 for waterfall, and super 2 for pool/ spa.
 
Welcome to TFP!

If you maintain the FC levels we recommend, which are based on your CYA level, then there is no need for raising the FC on some schedule.

If a problem develops, then you need to follow our SLAM process.

Do you have one of the recommended test kits? Post up a set of test results.
 
I will be getting one of the suggested test kits soon.

I have been going to pinch a penny to have the water tested since its free and computerized.

Today's readings.....

FC 5.0
Ph. 7.8
Ta 120 Added 5lbs baking soda to days ago.
Ch. 295
Stabilizer 60
Tds. 4700
Salt 3200

The only thing they said I needed was 3.4 cups of acid.

The whole shocking thing came up because I ask him if they bought back the jugs being I don't need it anymore, and that's when he said I will still need it to shock every two weeks during the summer.
I live in central florida on the east coast. Hot and humid.

Thanks for any in put!! Todd
 
Their testing is worth what you pay for it. Get a kit and trust it.

You may want to supplement the SWG with liquid chlorine for heavy use, but no need to keep gallons of high strength stuff on hand.
 
There is no need to shock if your levels are maintained. Believe it or not, I have never had to shock my pool.

Themacdadt said:
I have been going to pinch a penny to have the water tested since its free and computerized.
They might seem high tech but they still won't give you better results than your own kit.

Themacdadt said:
Ta 120 Added 5lbs baking soda to days ago.
Just curious, did they tell you to raise your TA?
 
I don't recall the level then but I know it was out of their suggested range. And five pounds bought it to the top of their suggested range.


I would really like to cut them out of the picture. Could you please suggest what all my chemical ranges should be? And which kit would do it all?

The finish on my pool looks like sand. I don't know the proper name for it.

P.s here in central fl. I loose about a quarter inch daily due to evaporation. So I wait till its about a I ch low then I refill.

Thank yo so much!!! Todd
 
Hello Todd (Themacdadt),
Welcome to the forums. Pool school is your friend. It's very important to purchase a good test kit and follow the instructions in pool school. There's a bit of reading to do, but after a few weeks it all starts to come together.
Here's the link: category.php?c=getting_started

Remember pool stores are in business to sell chemicals. I'm also in Central Florida. I can go in with crystal clear water with numbers right on and they will still recommend chemicals such as PhosRemover (total waste), but that's another conversation.

You always want your water level between the top and bottom of the skimmer inlet and you probably want to always run you SWCG when the pump is running except if doing an overnight chlorine lost test.

jblizzle (Jason) list the links you should read at the bottom of his post.

The group here will give you great advice. Again welcome to the forum.

Bob
 
You're getting good advice above. I'll just chiime in to say, Welcome to TFP. And that I've never "shocked" my pool since I've had it, and I don't own a swg. Regular shocking is unnecessary and a waste of money. Learn the methods taught here and you'll never have algae, you'll never have to regularly "shock" and your pool will be trouble free.

P.S. Take the jugs you have back and get your deposit back, and just buy a jug or two of bleach to keep on hand.
 

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I was recently in the pool store buying 12% liquid chlorine, there was a customer getting the same story as you that he should be shocking every two weeks or so. She was recommending the BurnOut, about three bags at $6.99 each and then a maintenance level of these three bags at a cheaper 3.99 a bag and if he still needed FC, the liquid chlorine would be needed at $15 a case.

Why? The chlorine in bags all contain stuff you don't need and they are expensive. I am still using the same case of four gallons, it's been at least two weeks. True, if the pool is green, you may need two cases but this is still cheaper than the bags she recommended.

Learn the CYA chlorine relationship, test your own water, be in control of the pool, save money and have the best looking pool you have ever seen... The TFP way.
 
Todd,

Let me add something to the conversation. Perhaps you (like I originally did) think Pool School is just 5 topics long. When you click on the "Pool School" link you see what looks like a table of contents that has five topics. If you read all five of those, you might think you are finished, but you're not. Click on the "Complete Table of Contents" and you will see many more topics. One of those discusses test kits and where to get them.

By the way, please don't be offended. I don't think you are dumb. But since I made this mistake and didn't discover the rest of Pool School for a week or so, I think it's possible other people might do the same, and overlook a big portion of the valuable information in there.
 
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