Test kit out for delivery! - first post

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rodmitch

rodmitch

0
Aug 26, 2013
18
Sacramento, CA
I've been reading posts here the last couple weeks like an addict and gone through everything in Pool School at least once. Should be able to play with the test kit tonight. We bought our house two Aprils ago and I've been using chlorine pucks since then up til about a week ago. Stocked up on Target's 4 for 3 bleach deal. I think I'm ready to go!

So, any guesses on what my CYA will be after 2 summers on pucks?

Lat summer the pool was a dream to take care of, no problems at all. Occasional brushing. Didn't add anything other than chlorine all year and an occasional bag of shock (cal-hypo maybe? I'll have to check the box when I get home). I think I added one dose of ph-up at one point. Early this summer the pool guy I've gotten chemicals from (twice) recommended a phosphate treatment for one reason or another which (I now know) didn't gain me anything but extra brushing and filter cleaning. Since then we've had recurring brown/yellow algae on the walls and steps which needs to be brushed every week or so and comes back worse when I let the chlorine drop (duh).

My main question is: how do I know if it's mustard algae or not?

When I get a good look at it with goggles up close it looks green but from the deck it looks yellow-brownish and brushes easily. Do I do my first SLAM and then take it up to mustard shock just in case or do I go the regular route and see what happens?

I'm also thinking about waiting a few weeks before I do the inevitable drain and refill because I don't want to cool the water off too much right before the end of the swimming season and cut it short. Especially now that we're back to 100-degree days in Sacramento! (No cover so it probably wouldn't come back up to comfortable swimming temps before the days cool off too much anyway.) So I'm thinking I'll just keep it at target FC until I can drain, refill, and do a proper SLAM.

Honestly, other than when the algae shows up now and then, the pool's always looked great. I'm pretty much in love with this forum and I'd appreciate any tips!
 
I am local, let me know if you need any help outside of what you get here.

I am going to guess your CYA is sky high. When you do your testing, be sure to follow the extended directions and do it in the sun. Also, you can "yo-yo" your test solution between the squeeze bottle and the test tube several times during your testing to get your readings. No need to make new solution each test. The CYA test is the hardest. Backyard Pools on Garfield (near Auburn) will also do accurate CYA testing if you are concerned about your methods and want some store help. Or I can help you.

For me, a drain and fill was the least expensive solution for my water issues, assuming your have "Sacramento Suburban" water service. it cost me about $13 to refill my 10K pool.
 
Welcome to tfp, rodmitch :wave:

Is the algae growth more prevalent on surfaces that are generally in the shade? If it is, then it is likely MA...but often people who think they have MA, do not.

...ohh.. and my guess is 100+
 
Thanks for the welcomes!

htownjeeper said:
100+
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Heh, Yes. I'm curious about doing the 50% dilution test. I wonder if it will be over 200.

htownjeeper said:
I'd get my CYA under control first. You'll get better replies after you post your first readings.
Click to expand...

Just excited about getting started on the "right" way.

jblizzle said:
I thought you read Pool School ... must have missed this one: pool-school/mustard_algae :whip: ;)

As the article states, you just do the normal SLAM process then if the mustard is suspected (growing in the shape etc), you would elevate the FC level.
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Actually I read that a few times. It's not very clear on how to tell mustard algae from regular. It spends more time cautioning "are you sure you really have mustard algae and not just pollen?". It seems the only way to tell is if it keeps showing up after a regular SLAM. I was hoping for some way to tell if I have to do the mustard slam in the first place. What does "growing in the shape" mean? I describe the algae as patchy but I've never seen it on the surface of the water. Never on the bottom either but I think the cleaner vacuums and stirs it up enough.

htownjeeper said:
be hard to get to SLAM level with an extraordinarily high CYA?
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I was figuring on doing regular FC target level for whatever the CYA turns out to be until I do the drain, refill, and then SLAM.

techguy said:
I am local, let me know if you need any help outside of what you get here.

I am going to guess your CYA is sky high. When you do your testing, be sure to follow the extended directions and do it in the sun. Also, you can "yo-yo" your test solution between the squeeze bottle and the test tube several times during your testing to get your readings. No need to make new solution each test. The CYA test is the hardest. Backyard Pools on Garfield (near Auburn) will also do accurate CYA testing if you are concerned about your methods and want some store help. Or I can help you.

For me, a drain and fill was the least expensive solution for my water issues, assuming your have "Sacramento Suburban" water service. it cost me about $13 to refill my 10K pool.
Click to expand...
Sweet thanks! Yes on the sswd. I'm not too worried about the water cost. Which is nice, I guess!
 
As to mustard issue, I would say deal with the algae as if it were "regular", complete your SLAM and IF it comes back while at the recommended levels, then address the mustard by completing a "regular" SLAM and then go up to the "mustard levels".
 

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jblizzle said:
linen said:
rodmitch said:
What does "growing in the shape" mean?
Click to expand...
He meant shade not shape.
Click to expand...

Oops, sorry about the confusion. Thanks to linen for fixing it ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input!

So here are the results from my first test:

FC 1.5
CC 0
pH 7.2
TA 110
CH 820*
CYA first test >100, 50% dilution 80x2=160**

Added 3 jugs of 8.25% 121oz bleach as per the poolcalc shooting for 15. Waited 30 min with the pump running and measured FC again at 18.5. I think my 17K gallon estimate might be closer to 16K based on that rise but I'm also not sure if that was enough time to be mixed well. (Actually playing with the pool calc numbers show that much of a rise for that amount would happen in a 14K pool. Hmm, I didn't think my estimate was that far off but I'll dial that in as I go.)

Anyway I measured again this morning before sunup to check OCLT and got 15.5 FC. It looks like my target should be 18 and min should be 12 until I get the pool drained and start the SLAM. I'll be curious to find out how much it drops today.

* wow, this was the surprising one to me. I tested twice, first time as per instructions using 25ml + 82 drops x 10 = 820. Second time using 10ml + 33 drops x 25 = 825. I tested our tap water at 8 drops x 10 = 80. Seems like a huge difference!

**caveat: sun was down so I used various artificial lights. It looked pretty opaque at 80 and I'm not sure how it would be any more clear in full daylight but there's obviously a margin of error there.
 
I would say your first priority is to get your CYA back down to a reasonable number. You CH is likely a result of bags of chlorine (CalHypo, BurnOut?) from the LPS.

Since it's hot this week, it might be a good week to drain some of the water (you could them get some of the pool heat back up before the weekend). It will also solve your CH issue. Poolcalculator will help you decide how much.
 
Yeah, first priority is certainly getting the CYA under control as trying to maintain the FC that high is just going to be difficult, especially if you have to SLAM.

Also realize that when the FC > 10ppm, the pH test reads inaccurately high.
 
jblizzle said:
Yeah, first priority is certainly getting the CYA under control as trying to maintain the FC that high is just going to be difficult, especially if you have to SLAM.
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I'm wanting to wait to drain and fill for another week or two (and then vacation, so, three) to avoid dropping the temp and cutting the swim season short (wife's request and she's the one that has to handle the kids all day!) That might be tempered by the amount of chlorine it takes to keep it above 12 so I'm curious about the demand the next couple of days.

jblizzle said:
Also realize that when the FC > 10ppm, the pH test reads inaccurately high.
Click to expand...
Ah, that's right. I did test the pH again this morning and got 7.4 or so but I guess that doesn't mean much.
 
techguy said:
I would say your first priority is to get your CYA back down to a reasonable number. You CH is likely a result of bags of chlorine (CalHypo, BurnOut?) from the LPS.

Since it's hot this week, it might be a good week to drain some of the water (you could them get some of the pool heat back up before the weekend). It will also solve your CH issue. Poolcalculator will help you decide how much.
Click to expand...
It seems to take a long time to warm even a couple degrees even in 100-degree weather. I know a cover would help but we don't have one at this point. Poolcalcutor says 69% replacement for CYA.
 

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