Time to slay the dragon

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Tiba80

Tiba80

0
Sep 3, 2013
52
Lakeport, CA
While searching the net for info on how to kill the green monster in my pool, I came across your site. Thankfully!!!!!! :whoot: I have been reading the various and prolific accounts of pool treatment, and think I have a good idea of how to move forward. I just ordered the TF-100 and hope to have it soon. But in the meantime, when I start vacation this Saturday I will start with the chlorine/brushing/monitoring as described in the SLAM process.

We bought this place three years ago as a foreclosure. The bank did the initial clean-up and I was doing okay with the occasional cloudy water. We finally got behind the power curve last summer when the roofers totally re-did our roof, and we re-built the pool fence. Of course, I ended up on an extended road trip for several weeks during the summer. My husband is not as healthy as he used to be and he just couldn't stay on top of it.

We know the old plumbing leaks because we would lose up to two inches a day when we ran the pump. We can account for part of that due to evaporation (it is a 20x40 with almost full sun exposure). We just built a temporary return system that will last us until next spring when we can afford to get iti done right.

Yes the pool is green. Very green. The dogs don't seem to mind, until we hose them off at the end of the day.

Pending the test results, is there anything else I should be addressing as we prepare to attack the fiend?

Thanks for this awesome site. It is very informative. And entertaining! :lol:

Linda
 
Find places in your area where you can get plain bleach or liquid chlorine cheaply. Knowing more than one place is good--I ended up depleting the inexpensive stock at the local Walmart on the third day.

Also, while the dragon is eating chlorine as if it is dessert, you can use a 5 ml sample to test chlorine, and then you just count drops--don't divide by anything (this will probably make more sense once you have the test kit). You'll use less chemicals this way. And you don't need to know about those half-steps (14.5 vs 15.0) until the water is clear and you're doing the OCLT.
 
I can get 8.25% at the local KMART for a reasonable price. The have the last of the summer pool chlorine out in the garden section. It will get lonely there now that school is back in session, and we have been having below normal temps for this time of year.
 
Ok, just got home from road trip and my TF100 was waiting for me. Test results are:
FC = 0
TC= 0
pH = 8
TA = 120
CH = 170
CYA = 0

By the time I have dinner the pool will be in the shade and I would like to get started with the SLAM. It is supposed to be pretty hot and windy this weekend which I'm sure will impact the amount of chlorine it takes to get through the process.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4
 
If CYA is really zero you need to fix that also. You will need between 20-30 ppm of CYA in the water to protect the chlorine you slam with from being destroyed by the sun.

CYA unfortunately is slow to add by normal recommended process. I'm going to suggest that others come in with ideas before I suggest alternatives.

Sent via Tapatalk...
 
Well, it was the first time using the kit so I'm not saying there wasn't any possibility of operator error. I will recheck everything first thing in the morning. I have spent the last hour of daylight dredging the depths of the pool, hoping the the Creature from the Black Lagoon didn't pop up. (So far so good). I also pulled the last ladder out so I could brush the walls of the pool more efficiently. Tomorrow is going to be a long day! :|

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
Follow the slam procedure. As mentioned, you'll need to raise CYA if it is 0. You also need to lower the pH if it is at 8. And since you have a plaster pool, I recommend increasing your CH to at least 250 to keep the water from becoming corrosive at the lower pH you want to start with for the slam.

You can worry about the TA later.
 
For the CYA I have hung a couple pucks by one of the returns. I know that is a slow process. I checked at Kmart this morning and they are out of bulk. I will start checking the local hardware stores next. I will also get what I need to start raising the CH.

I'm not sure I have the math right for when it is time to rotate my filter cartridges. (I have two). If I remember the article right, note the starting pressure with a clean filter. When the pressure rises 25%[?] it's time to rotate? So if my starting pressure is 5, then I should rotate when the pressure gets to about 7. Which is what I did, but it honestly didn't look all that dirty.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
but it honestly didn't look all that dirty.
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with that. Using 25% as a guideline allows you to keep the best efficiency of your circulatory system by always having good flow.

Allow the filter to get really dirty and the flow is greatly reduced.....;wasting electricity.
 

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Latest test results
FC. 3
CC. 5
TC. 8
pH. 7.5
TA. did not test based on comments above
CH 140
CYA. 0

My husband is out shopping now for CYA and calcium chloride. I've been adding water to the pool so the CH level has probably dropped relative to this morning.

Based on the CYA/chlorine chart I am aiming for a shock level of 10 at a minimum. Should I go higher given that there is no CYA?


Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
Use a target of 10 for now. Check every hour and adjust. You will lose more chlorine to the sun with no CYA, but you don't want so much chlorine in the water that it causes damage, and with no CYA to buffer it, that becomes tricker as well. Once you put the CYA in the water, you can up the shock level to match the CYA you expect once it all dissolves.
 
Did you get any CYA? If not then we might need to discuss using Dichlor to jump start the CYA unless you can find some plain CYA. We don't typically suggest it because it changes pH, chlorine, and CYA all at once so it is a bit trickier to use than plain CYA.

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Yes, we got plain CYA this afternoon. I added 6 lbs based on the pool calculator. It still reads 0 but I will test again in the morning before adding more. Also added some calcium earlier.

Test results at 7 pm, with the setting sun for ambience
FC. 3
CC. 6
TC 9
pH. 7.2
TA. 110
CH. 160
CYA. 0

Now that I have had dinner, I will go and add more chlorine and calcium based on the pool calculator numbers. Fresh filter ready to go in the morning. The pool is a lighter shade of green now. Still dredging slime, and albino crickets(?), from the bottom, but less of it. Brushed the walls twice, and started on the floor in the shallow end, not that I could the bottom.

Never made it to the gym today, but after today's effort, probably not needed! :D

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
It still reads 0 but I will test again in the morning before adding more
Click to expand...
Do not add anymore CYA.

You calculated a dosage of six pounds so you can safely assume that amount is in your pool, even though it may take several days for it to fully register on your CYA test.

Do not put in any more CYA.
 
Copy that on the CYA

This morning's numbers

FC. 2
CC. 5
TC. 7
ph. 7.2
TA. 80
CH. 200
CYA 0


The pool is still green, but was covered with foam. Once the sun set I added chlorine to get it up to shock level. Added another 3 gallons this morning. Off to Sunday brunch and more fun in the sun once I get back.



Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
2 observations...

First, how did you calculate 6lbs. of CYA? That only brings your CYA level to about 15. You should be SLAMing with a CYA of 30. It will prevent the FC from disappearing in the sunlight before it can do any work.

Second, you need to test and dose your FC more often than you are. If you aren't HOLDING an FC level of 10 (and your test results of 2, 3, and 3 show you're not), you're not going to make much progress.
 
Smykowski said:
2 observations...

First, how did you calculate 6lbs. of CYA? That only brings your CYA level to about 15. You should be SLAMing with a CYA of 30. It will prevent the FC from disappearing in the sunlight before it can do any work.

Second, you need to test and dose your FC more often than you are. If you aren't HOLDING an FC level of 10 (and your test results of 2, 3, and 3 show you're not), you're not going to make much progress.
Click to expand...

I 're-checked my calculation for the CYA, because I wasn't wearing my glasses when I looked at the weight of the container. It was actually 8# which calculates to a CYA of 23.

And I agree on the FC level. As soon as I got back from brunch I retested and added more chlorine. I plan on being more on top of the testing today so I can keep at the shock level. Yes I know I will burn through the chlorine until the CYA comes up.

Cost of being a "noob" pool owner. :!:

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 
Was able to get the FC up to 5 before the heat of the day hit. My dumb luck this is the HOTTEST weekend in the last 5weeks by about 15 degrees. :mad:

Numbers at 6;15
FC. 4
CC. 3
TC. 7
pH. Did not test
TA. 50
CH. 170
CYA. 2

Clarity is improving. Can see about a foot down. It's taking longer to load up a filter. The pool is totally in the shadows now. Should be able to gain a better to whole tonight.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
 

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