Newbie needing help

Aug 28, 2013
31
League City, TX
We were told to add chlorine to our pool and it would take care of itself.....pahhh :hammer:
Took us a year to figure that out. I live in houston, Texas. We have a reoccurring mustard algae problem. We slammed it a month ago and it has come back twice. Our test kit shows our levels are as follows:

TA 120
Chlorine> 3.0
pH 7.6

What gives? Any advice?

Last time this happened, we slammed it and spent 6 hours scrubbing, vacuuming, cleaning filters, etc. I clean the pool on a weekly basis.
 
First bit of advice is to buy a TF100 test kit and post a full set of results.

Your chlorine reading is meaningless with knowing your CYA reading.

Once you order your kit read pool school and get ready to take control of your pool :mrgreen:







Poolsareeasy said:
We were told to add chlorine to our pool and it would take care of itself.....pahhh :hammer:
Took us a year to figure that out. I live in houston, Texas. We have a reoccurring mustard algae problem. We slammed it a month ago and it has come back twice. Our test kit shows our levels are as follows:

TA 120
Chlorine> 3.0
pH 7.6

What gives? Any advice?

Last time this happened, we slammed it and spent 6 hours scrubbing, vacuuming, cleaning filters, etc. I clean the pool on a weekly basis.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Which test kit do you have?
Please post a full set of test results and how you got them?
Post your pool and equipment info as well. Putting it in your sig would be nice.

How did you determine that it's mustard algae?
 

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Below is what I do when I get overwhelmed by algae or dirty pool:
It usually falls on Thursday. Make sure system is working 100%. Put system to service mode. Clean skimmer basket and pump basket. Raise water level about 1 inch above normal level. Verify the PH is between 7.2 and 7.5.
Backwash it. Take filter apart, hose off remaining DE best to my ability. Reassemble and prime filter. Verify water level is at least at normal level.
Start the pump, Chrage the filter. Record PSI. Wait until sun is almost down or start if pool is covered by shadow.
Shock the pool. I add 3 bags of shock. I empty 1.5 bag of shock around the edge of pool. .5 of bag is spread in shallow end. 1 bag spread at beginning of slope to deep end. . Wait few min. Run Polaris 360 cleaner without bag on it.
Next morning, all algae in the pool is dead. Turn off Polaris. Time to collect the dead but do not turn off the pump.
If more than 4 lbs of pressure, backwash. If not, wait until it hits almost 4 more lbs. Repeat until water is no longer green. Treat water with recommended dose of algaecide into pool if needed.
Water is not clear enough? Treat water with recommended dose of water clarifier into pool.
Have pool party and watch people paste sun block on kids over the weekend. Watch kids jump into my pool with fully sun block covered body. Imagine what the sun block is doing in the filter. Drink more beer wondering if I need to do this again on Thursday. Rinse and repeat.
 
This is exactly what ever pool store tells you to do. I heard it this week. The customer was complaining about a green pool. The LPS saleslady said "You need three of this bag and when the pool is cloudy, you will need to add three of these, unless the FC doesn't come up and then you will need to add more bags." Customer "How much are these bags each?" LPS: They are $6.99 each unless you buy a case in which they are a little less. This generic brand is a little less expensive. These are CalHypo"

I bought 4 gallons of 12% for $15. I should be good for couple weeks.

in your pool, three pounds of dichlor would add 7.8 FC and 7.2 CYA and last about 1 day for the FC. The CYA... it's yours forever. I am going to guess it cost you about $12 for the three bags that last 1 day. CalHypo would be closer $20 for the inital does and then another $20 for second batch...

The clarifier is not needed if you treat your pool water correctly and filter. The claifiers would be what? another $20.

We have now reached the point where a TF-100 $68 , 4 gallons of liquid chlorine $15 and a gallon of MA $7 would get our pool clear and balanced, for a couple weeks. And your test kit should last two seasons and save you driving to the pool store to be told what to do in the hope it will clear up this month.
 
@modd: you need to do some more reading here to learn our proven methods and recommendations before you start offering advice ... which seems to just mimic pool store methods that likely caused the problem in the first place.

Do you happen to work at a pool store? Because we would never suggest wasting money on all the products you just mentioned.
 
Poolsareeasy said:
What can we do in the meantime to shock our pool with bleach? How many gallons? Do not want to go buy more "shock" and we ran out when I shocked it last Saturday.

Assuming these were correct a couple of days ago you would probably find a gallon of 8.25% per day would be sufficient to hold you over if your water is good as you want a minimum of 7 ppm chlorine with your CYA level. In my 21K pool a gallon of 8% will add roughly 4 ppm so you will get a bit more of a bump with an 18K pool.

FC 8
TC 8
CYA 90
TA 90
pu 7.4

But .... if you have algae your shock level is 35 so you can add 6 gallons of 8% or so.

Or go somewhere in between.
 
I agree, a gallon a day would hold you over and is a safe amount even if not all of it is consumed by algae or the sun.

I would not do these for more than a week without know what's going on. Your test kit will be here before then. You should be fine.
 
I assume the house comment is a joke...

When you add your chlorine, the best method is the turn on your pump and pour the bleach in front of your return water. The bleach should be in a stream about the size of pencil. This will allow the bleach to blend with the water without risk to your liner/gunite. Adding chlorine directly to the skimmer or pump is not recommended. It can ruin seals or other fittings in the pump. Our recommendations are designed to be safe in all pools without any assumptions about your pool or it's finish.
 

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