Intex Ultra Frame Owners

[DigbyAllen]

This year I have a sand filter to store also. I'm not sure how I'll store that, but I assume I'll drain the water and leave the sand in, and store that in the basement too so I don't have to worry about freezing. It helps that I have a walk out basement so I don't have to carry heavy items down the stairs.

I wouldn't move the sand filter since the laterals can get damaged. I just leave mine (in MN here) on the equipment pad and pull the drain plug, let it drain and leave the multiport valve on "winterize" which basically just keeps the valve cracked open.

Thanks for the warning on this. Unfortunately I will have to move the sand filter because I'm having some yard work done and it's in the way where it is.

My question is, just how delicate are the laterals? I wasn't planning to roll it like a beer keg. If I'm careful with it, do you think I'll be OK moving it as is, or should I empty the sand out before moving it? I'd rather not do that unless I have to.

Also, my filter does not have a winterize position either. It has a choice of Filter, Rinse, Recirculate, Backwash, Closed, and Waste. Which is the preferred valve position for winter storage?

 

[linen]

I have moved them full, and being gentle, without damage. If you don't have to go far, then if you have a "hand truck" or something similar to move it with you should be okay. As you said, definitely do not roll it.

 

[DigbyAllen]

I have moved them full, and being gentle, without damage. If you don't have to go far, then if you have a "hand truck" or something similar to move it with you should be okay. As you said, definitely do not roll it.

Thanks, I do have a hand truck and I don't have far to move it.

 

[jcp]

This year I have a sand filter to store also. I'm not sure how I'll store that, but I assume I'll drain the water and leave the sand in, and store that in the basement too so I don't have to worry about freezing. It helps that I have a walk out basement so I don't have to carry heavy items down the stairs.

I wouldn't move the sand filter since the laterals can get damaged. I just leave mine (in MN here) on the equipment pad and pull the drain plug, let it drain and leave the multiport valve on "winterize" which basically just keeps the valve cracked open.

Thanks for the warning on this. Unfortunately I will have to move the sand filter because I'm having some yard work done and it's in the way where it is.

My question is, just how delicate are the laterals? I wasn't planning to roll it like a beer keg. If I'm careful with it, do you think I'll be OK moving it as is, or should I empty the sand out before moving it? I'd rather not do that unless I have to.

Also, my filter does not have a winterize position either. It has a choice of Filter, Rinse, Recirculate, Backwash, Closed, and Waste. Which is the preferred valve position for winter storage?

On my Intex 2650 sand filter (this years model, the gray ones) there is a "N" position. This is the winterize position per the manual. Not sure if the previous blue models have it or not.

 

[DigbyAllen]

On my Intex 2650 sand filter (this years model, the gray ones) there is a "N" position. This is the winterize position per the manual. Not sure if the previous blue models have it or not.

This is what mine looks like. You're right. There is a "N" position. I never noticed it before. I guess I should have read the manual more carefully. Thanks for the tip.
I rubber banded baggies to the input and output attachments to keep bugs and critters out, and also so I don't lose the rubber O-rings.[attachment=0xwqeytd]Intex2650_3772.jpg[/attachmentxwqeytd]

 

[jcp]

On my Intex 2650 sand filter (this years model, the gray ones) there is a "N" position. This is the winterize position per the manual. Not sure if the previous blue models have it or not.

This is what mine looks like. You're right. There is a "N" position. I never noticed it before. I guess I should have read the manual more carefully. Thanks for the tip.
I rubber banded baggies to the input and output attachments to keep bugs and critters out, and also so I don't lose the rubber O-rings.[attachment=0:ybgw40ue]Intex2650_3772.jpg[/attachment:ybgw40ue]

It was also recommended by some to drain the sight glass (it unscrews), and to remove the gauge in case it has water in it. I plan to cover my openings similar to yours, but I think I'm going to use screen instead so it can "breath".

 

[DigbyAllen]

It was also recommended by some to drain the sight glass (it unscrews), and to remove the gauge in case it has water in it. I plan to cover my openings similar to yours, but I think I'm going to use screen instead so it can "breath".

Good ideas. I have water in my sight glass and I was worried about how to get it out and avoid it freezing. If I bring the filter indoors it won't be an issue. I like the idea of the screen. I'm sure the sand is still wet and that might help it to dry out and avoid mold or other nastiness.

 

[CeeElGee]

anyway, here is finished cover support and winter cover installed:

[attachment=2:1f5xb1tm]image[1].jpeg[/attachment:1f5xb1tm]

[attachment=1:1f5xb1tm]image[5].jpeg[/attachment:1f5xb1tm]

the mini bungees worked great for getting it tight, even around the skimmer:

[attachment=0:1f5xb1tm]image[7].jpeg[/attachment:1f5xb1tm]

You say your center support is 5 feet, but that all looks a lot taller than that. Any explanation?

My idea of supporting my cover with a ladder in the center of the pool and a flotation tube over the top of the ladder isn't going to work. I went out today and bought enough Schedule 40 to do something like what you've done.

 

[gtnos]

anyway, here is finished cover support and winter cover installed:

[attachment=2:2vb7alqw]image[1].jpeg[/attachment:2vb7alqw]

[attachment=1:2vb7alqw]image[5].jpeg[/attachment:2vb7alqw]

the mini bungees worked great for getting it tight, even around the skimmer:

[attachment=0:2vb7alqw]image[7].jpeg[/attachment:2vb7alqw]

You say your center support is 5 feet, but that all looks a lot taller than that. Any explanation?

My idea of supporting my cover with a ladder in the center of the pool and a flotation tube over the top of the ladder isn't going to work. I went out today and bought enough Schedule 40 to do something like what you've done.

actually, its closer to six feet. plus all the bows interconnect above it and I used some marine grade rope to tie all the bows together and then i ran the rope through the center support holes that i drilled near the top, cinched everything down tight. overall height is probably 6.5 feet.

 

[tiabaldo]

Hi,

I recently closed up and winterized our 14'x4' Intex Ultra Frame pool for the first time. We live in a relatively mild winter climate, though we can get snow and ice a couple of times a season.

We waited until the water temperature was close to 65 degrees before doing the winterizing, but we treated the pool with a shock level of bleach and 1 cup of Polyquat algaecide and made sure all the other chemical levels were within range.

We inflated one of our large beach balls, placed it inside one of our large inflatable donut rings, tied string on opposite sides of the donut and secured them to opposite sides of the pool so our "pillow" was centered in the pool.

We used the original blue cover that came with the pool. It has holes in it and we decided that we liked it because it helps to prevent the wind from blowing off the cover. We secured it to the top railing of the pool with 6" stretch wrap. We have a lot of leaves to contend with, so we got a meshed leaf cover to put over the regular cover. Every few weeks we lift up the leaf cover and dump the leaves, which is no big deal.

We had installed a through wall skimmer, so when the water temperatures were close to 65 degrees we began the winterizing process by draining the pool to just below the skimmer. We removed the weir door & the basket from the inside of the skimmer to store it in the garage during the winter and then removed the shut off valve and hose from the bottom of the through wall skimmer so it is completely open and can drain if the pool water level increases.

Because the return jet is situated much lower than the bottom of the skimmer, we decided we didn't want to drain the pool that low, so we closed the shutoff valve to the return jet to block off most of the water while preparing to winterize that outlet.

We unscrewed the jet return eye from the inside of the pool and cut a gasket to put inside it to block some of the water flow and screwed it back onto the return jet outlet. Then we removed the shut off valve from the outside of the return outlet. We used one of the little black solid rounded "top hat" plugs inserted into the L ring gasket from the backwash outlet on the Intex sand filter. We inserted that into the return jet on the outside and capped it with the solid gray cap from the backwash port on the Intex sand filter.

We unplugged the Intex sand filter/pump and removed all the hoses. We then set the plunger valve to the "N" position (which is a winterized setting). We opened the drain/sediment cap at the bottom of the pump basket and we also opened the drain cap on the bottom of the sand filter so most of the water could be removed.

We unscrewed the sight glass and the pressure gauge from the side of the filter. We then removed all the gaskets from the pump and filter and placed all of the small parts we'd removed into the pump basket so they wouldn't get lost. We cut some screening to secure around all of the outlets on the sand filter so little critters can't get into it.

We disconnected the pump from the sand filter and brought it into the garage and left the sand filter in its place outside, covered with an inverted garbage can.

Hopefully this will be sufficient.